thermostat where is it

[datant69]

i didn't get a chance to get under the hood of my car today but bought the part and took a peak at it as i glanced over it several times. Is there a thermostat on the top of the block where in inlet hose from the radiator? only reason i'm asking is because the thermostat looks bigger in diameter then the hose and i don't see the normal 2 bolt like on 305 and 350 chevy engines. Yea i know this isn't your dad's pickup but before i start pulling stuff i just wanted to make sure. i know several of you guys have alot of experiance with R & R ing these so this will be one of those it's there. i did a search and one guy said to pull pull pull since it's probably the factory one and rusted up. So please if anyone can tell me that yes it's in the place where the hose is. the thing that had me scratching my head was it didn't have that 2 bolt metal part that you usually have to buy a gasket and sealer. The hose looks like it goes directly into the block and there aren't any bolts to remove other then a hose that connects the radiator to the block. this is the top part and sorry for the stupid question but i have seen thermostats in different places other then there. thanks in advance.

 

[notacarlo]

Thermostat is hidden under the throttlebody and goes into the intake manifold. There's one 10mm (?) bold holding a brace. Remove bolt carefully and reinser carefully...don't want to mess up the threads.

Once you remove the brace, you may have to wiggle the hose a bit to release the water neck from the manifold. You will be less likely to mar up the neck if you use the hose to help remove it.

 

[notacarlo]

This is what the neck looks like. O-ringed into the intake.
Courtesy of Kirban Performace.

 

[TA49-WE4]

If your thermostat housing is rusty or breaks you will need to replace it.

Here it is just click on the link.

1986 1987 Buick Regal Grand National Turbo T T-Type GNX STAINLESS THERMOSTAT HOUSING #6706

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Follow the upper rad hose to the intake.

Leave the hose on.

Get a 13mm socket 1/4 inch and a extension. Pull the bolt, pull the horsecollar clamp.

Use the hose to yank that metal piece out of the intake. Behind that is the t-stat.

Everyone screws up that factory metal pice because there is not alot of leverage to yank it out, just use the upper hose and yank on it.

Drill a 1/8 hole in the outer rim of the t-stat, no more air bubbles.

Install it in the correct direction.
BW

 

[datant69]

thanks guys

i haven't tackled it yet but with all the experiance here on the board i knew you guys would point me in the right direction. i'll wind up doing it tomorrow as i'm not feeling well today. i just peeked at it when i posted this and where the upper hose went into the block didnt look like it housed a thermostat. you guys are the greatest and i really appreciate it. let you know how it goes and will take all your tips into consideration when R&R'ing it.

 

[datant69]

thermostat found but isn't what i thought it would be like

need alittle help, 1st time i've come across this type of setup. there was one bolt and a pipe i disconnected from the upper hose. this is what it looks like but it doesn't pop off and doesn't seem to want to budge. anyone know how i can crack this open without jacking it up. i thought about taking a pipe type wrench to it but i may mess it up. anyone have any pointers on how this comes out? sorry for all the questions i just don't want to screw up my block or this pipe. it looks like it unscrews but i'm not sure and not being familuar with it i wanted to ask you guys here on the site.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Follow the upper rad hose to the intake.

Leave the hose on.

Get a 13mm socket 1/4 inch and a extension. Pull the bolt, pull the horsecollar clamp.

Use the hose to yank that metal piece out of the intake. Behind that is the t-stat.

Everyone screws up that factory metal pice because there is not alot of leverage to yank it out, just use the upper hose and yank on it.

Drill a 1/8 hole in the outer rim of the t-stat, no more air bubbles.

Install it in the correct direction.
BW

What he said

 

[2QUICK2B6]

Take a big pair or channel locks to it an work back an forth until it comes out an order new aluminum housing

 

[daves87gn]

put hose back and use it for leverage, and get a new stainless housing

 

[datant69]

easier said then done

been tapping it to losen any rust that may have formed a bond and some good old strength and that pipe won't budge. i even put the hose back on and tried to pull it off but no luck either. not sure if i need to buy some of that stuff to losen up old bolts but that thing is in there real good.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I would buy a new aluminum piece and put grease on it to keep it from corroding. Looks like yours is too rough and trying to twist it will end up breaking it or collapsing it.

Or you could leave the current one in there and put it back together :biggrin:

Why are you replacing it?

BW

 

[datant69]

thermostat is closed shut

and i'm not getting any heat into the cabin. i've tried a few different ways to get it out and it's not budging. it looks like it's off center just alittle and with my luck that part isn't easy to come by if i do screw it up. thought about drilling a hole through it and trying to get some better leverage. any thoughts on that?

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

STOP

If the t-stat is closed the engine will over heat, you will still get heat to the heater core. The stat DOES NOT need to open to get heat to the core for you to get heat.

The little valve near the 2 black 90° hoses does control flow to the core.
Make sure that valve opens when you start the car, alot of the time you have to manually help it to the open position to get heat. Its located pass side, behind and above the pass side valve cover, should have 1/8th black vacuum hose going to it.

If you dont have a new t-stat housing, might as well bolt it back up and add fluids to it

 

[datant69]

thanks

got it out with the help of brute force and some good vise grips. gotta wait to finish the job as i don't have a way to go get it today. thanks again guys for your knowledge on this and i don't know what i would do without you. oreilly's has it for 8.00 and 18.00. so i'll take my old one and match it up. i also need to go to the dollar store and buy a wire brush to clean the rust so i get a clean fit and no leak. never saw this set up before and had me scratching my head trying to figure out how to remove it.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Good luck! Post back if you have any more issues.

BW

 

[datant69]

valve?

is it this saucer shaped one in this pic? that's the only one i see next to the 90 degree hoses before they go into the passenger side, i'm still going to replace the thermostat and housing as it's probably the factory one.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Yes thats the piece, if the car is warmed up, heater on and one side is hot and the other is cold(make sure coolant is completely filled and no air pocket, drill that hole in the outer rim) then the valve may not be opening, the factory brass one has a external arm, see if that one has it.

Start the car, and have someone move the heater controls, it should open up and allow coolant thru it to get you some cabin heat.

BW

 

[datant69]

tried it

neither hose gets hot when the car is running or has been running. So replace it or is it something else?

 

[datant69]

heater control valve

ok went ahead and replaced the thermostat, figured since it looked old it may be time. replaced the gasket that goes around the round thermostat housing as it looked worn. now with the car warm after running more then 10-15 mins neither hose seemed warm or hot. next would be replacing the heater control valve since it may be the original and i'd like some heat in the car being it's winter. 10.00 at oreilly's and seems real simple, any other suggestions since i'm in the trying to narrow down why it's not heating inside the cabin. thanks guys for your help in advance.