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To stroke or not to stroke

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Neils64skylark

New Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
7
I'm going to put a 3.8 turbo into my 64 skylArk. I'm building a decent fast street car to drive. Since this will never see the track will stroking it be worth it? I see a complete rebuild kit cost as much as a stroker crank. What's your guys thoughts
 
Even though the kits are about the same price, be aware that the machine shop cost will increase if the job is to be done correctly.

There is a good possibility that the block may need some work on the cast-in oil passage, and a mock-up of the rotating assembly should be done before balancing to assure no interference will happen. This should be done with the cam and timing chain in place.

Cam selection could be an issue with rod interference on some performance grinds.

Personally, I doubt that your street car will see any benefit in performance below 5000 RPM?
 
Even though the kits are about the same price, be aware that the machine shop cost will increase if the job is to be done correctly.

There is a good possibility that the block may need some work on the cast-in oil passage, and a mock-up of the rotating assembly should be done before balancing to assure no interference will happen. This should be done with the cam and timing chain in place.

Cam selection could be an issue with rod interference on some performance grinds.

Personally, I doubt that your street car will see any benefit in performance below 5000 RPM?

Thanks for the reply. I won't see 5000 rpm at all. I'm unaware of the condition of this motor but plan on taring it down and re ring and bearings. Maybe a cam while I'm there. What are some bolt ons that can really help. I assume a upgraded turbo is a must. Any suggestions?
 
There are many good "recipes" that are available, but you should first define your goals such as performance level, how the car will be driven and of course your budget? :)
 
There are many good "recipes" that are available, but you should first define your goals such as performance level, how the car will be driven and of course your budget? :)
Let's say I stick with stock crank. Put some h beam rods good arp rod bolts and forge pistons what's. Estimated boost max?
 
My opinion is you are asking questions about a build, but have no idea of where you want to go?

Many stock 3.8 turbo engines have run into the 10's with just bolt-on parts which is well over 500 RWHP and the known weak point in the rotating assembly is the crank, not the rods or pistons.

How can you get direction if you do not know where you are going? You want a "decent fast street car to drive", but what is YOUR definition of "fast"?

I have a 9 sec. and a 10 sec. street car and they are similar, but different by about 300 HP! :)
 
Many stock 3.8 turbo engines have run into the 10's with just bolt-on parts which is well over 500 RWHP and the known weak point in the rotating assembly is the crank, not the rods or pistons.
I've found the factory pistons to fail rapidly at 700+hp. I've never had a crank fail but a several pistons at low 10 high 9 sec power. The pistons split parallel to the wrist pin right down the center. Probably from excess clearance on the wrist pin to bore. I've never had an NOS shortblock to flog. If I did I wouldn't be afraid to throw enough at it and make many 9 sec passes.
 
Yea g
My opinion is you are asking questions about a build, but have no idea of where you want to go?

Many stock 3.8 turbo engines have run into the 10's with just bolt-on parts which is well over 500 RWHP and the known weak point in the rotating assembly is the crank, not the rods or pistons.

How can you get direction if you do not know where you are going? You want a "decent fast street car to drive", but what is YOUR definition of "fast"?

I have a 9 sec. and a 10 sec. street car and they are similar, but different by about 300 HP! :)
Yea I guess that was pretty general car description. If I can get it to run 12's I be tickled to death. Anything faster be a bonus. That's my direction. What would you suggest?
 
Pretty much a stock build will get you there. Is the engine you have complete? You may be able to salvage some of the more expensive parts depending on wear, etc. At any rate, it will be a cool hybrid.
 
Pretty much a stock build will get you there. Is the engine you have complete? You may be able to salvage some of the more expensive parts depending on wear, etc. At any rate, it will be a cool hybrid.

The motor is complete with turbo and all piping. What would be my steps? Rebuild to stock specs and upgrade turbo with intercooler? I've only built natural aspirated small block chevy's so I'm at a lose for this kinda machine
 
I suggest reading as much as possible using the search function for questions you have. Deal with an experienced TB engine builder. You are going to need a TB harness/ecm as well. Take your time and you will have a fun car.
 
I did the long rod gn1 stroker and it was night day difference. Only other change was cam.
 
I've found the factory pistons to fail rapidly at 700+hp. I've never had a crank fail but a several pistons at low 10 high 9 sec power. The pistons split parallel to the wrist pin right down the center. Probably from excess clearance on the wrist pin to bore. I've never had an NOS shortblock to flog. If I did I wouldn't be afraid to throw enough at it and make many 9 sec passes.
Ever had a stock cap fail?

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
How much does the car weigh?
350lbs less then a 86 gn. And a better drag coefficient by a hair then a gn. I'm looking for something ppl don't see in a skylark. Wouldn't even mind a sbb turbo. I like the idea of a v6carbed turbo. And have my eye on a complete one for 500$
 
The potential is greater with the 86-87 motor. That was going to be my next question as to which year 3.8 turbo motor you were looking at?
 
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