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Tough knock question

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File looks okay. Where's the KR you're talking about?
 
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Using the TT chip. There was no knock in these runs :( Scooby, by these files, what can you see? Are they worth a dam for tuning purposes? What do they tell you?
 
I'd have to see a full 1/4 mile blast. Your low gear fueling is rich...but that's normal with Erics chip...as he errs on the rich side. I'm assuming Erics chip is on default...along with Julios alky kit.
 
My timing is 18/16 and had a little fuel pulled for those runs. Started it up tonight and ran it, and it knocked like normal. During those powerlogged runs I couldn't get it to knock to save my life. Now, from just sitting in my garage overnight, it knocks all over again as if I did nothing. My fuel is now down to 116 in each gear, from 128. Wideband's still RUSHING to mid 9's during the run. I can't pull enough fuel out of it it seems... Here are the peculiarities. Got 118 miles to this tank, and the alky container was topped off to about 3/4's full, and it didn't even make it all the way through the entire night. And, while putting some gas in it I noticed that my rail fuel pressure gauge no longer holds fuel pressure. It's one of the good liquid filled gauges too. I've had it for about 2 years and it's always been rock solid. Besides a bad fuel pressure gauge, this condition of not holding pressure wouldn't have anything to do with my FPR would it?
 
The FPR is usually one of the first culprits for not holding fuel pressure. After that leaks in the fuel hose or leaking injectors.
 
Roger. Will this cause the car to run great one day, and have KR the next for no apparent reason? I'm going to do the clear tube test thingy again to see what's up on this. If it's losing pressure, am I to assume it can be either at the fittings, OR within the diaphragm itself? Same type of leak?
 
You can log fuel pressure with the Powerlogger. That will show how the fuel system is behaving and can help direct you to which component needs to be inspected closely.
 
Does this powerlogger in it's standard configuration (meaning, as downloaded, with no modifications) automatically log fuel pressure, or do I have to buy another odd piece of electronics that is never accurate to log fuel pressure as well.
 
You need a fuel transducer with a 5v reference wire. That reference wire will go to the #4 spot on the block.
 
Shit... More electronics that work in theory, but never in practice lol. Just like every piece of electronics on this car. First I hear that the 2nd gen translator's fuel adjustments doesn't actually doesn't pull any fuel, only the chip corrections can, then I hear that they actually do pull fuel. Then I pull a ton of fuel out of the chip, and my wide band show's that it got RICHER, and the block learns hover around 119, showing it's too rich and it's trying to pull fuel... I'm not sure how you guys actually tune without a dyno, but all this aftermarket electronics is just a bunch of shit in my opinion... I change one thing, and it ADDS to the problem, when on paper there's no way that can happen lol.
Tell me how I pull fuel and my wide band shows fuel was added lol. This car is causing me to drink a lot.
 
Now my fuel pressure gauge is holding fuel pressure again... I also installed a clear hose from the vac source to the pressure regulator, and no fuel was seen... Ugh...
 
What version TT chip are you running?
 
FPR could be acting up...FP gauge...or the O ring where the fuel line screws in could be NFG. Like the other gentleman said...you can log fuel pressure. I have an in car fuel pressure gauge on the A pillar to monitor fuel pressure. The electronics aren't BS...they're there to help monitor...and to diagnose problems. Patience is a must with these cars. I see you're running GEN 2. I'd unhook it...and adjust your fueling/timing via Erics chip. GEN 2 is fine...IF you understand it.
 
See? This is why this electronic shit never works... Saved, the same exact way I saved all my other logs, and they're telling me "this file is empty" then there's all this weird symbols shit like another language following it. What does that mean? I can clearly see they're so many KB's long, so I know they're not empty. WTF is wrong with this stuff? Why does it never work like the directions say?
At any rate my afr's were lookin good (for THIS hour. Wait an hour and do it again. They'll be allll jacked up again) and the first run, no knock. The 2nd two runs (in a straight line) the knock climbed a bit then came back down. After that, I ran around the city streets instead of just goin in a straight line, and the knock came back like normal, which is all the way through the rpm range. Regardless of the rpm, when I accelerated the knock was fast and pretty high (3 to 4 degrees) And get this. This is all with the TT chip being at 112 for wot fuel thru all gears.... Tell me how my afr's are just about perfect (providing all this electronic malarkey is actually accurate) with a ton of fuel pulled... What the hell is going wrong with my car???? How can such a proven chip be close with a ton of fuel pulled?
Why is my shit soooo far off? I do a run, afr's look good (about high tens low elevens) and then turn around at the end of the street and the block learns peg at 118. How, when my air fuel ratios are fine. ONE of these gauges is absolutely full of shit. How in the bloody hell does one determine which one is telling the truth? There's no way one says good and the other immediately pegs to a number that tells me it's trying to pull fuel fast.
 
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SCOOBY DOO said:
The electronics aren't BS...they're there to help monitor...and to diagnose problems. Patience is a must with these cars. I see you're running GEN 2. I'd unhook it...and adjust your fueling/timing via Erics chip. GEN 2 is fine...IF you understand it.
Click to expand...
Scooby, been through all of this b/f. He's using the GEN2 for the LS MAF. He has no clue how to tune it and won't listen. It's been suggested to him several times in the past to dump it and go for the Translator for ease of tuning. He's got a phobia about electronics and refuses or can't learn how to deal with them. Some people are better off with an old muscle car with a carb and distributor. What he needs is a real TB guru to take his car and straighten it all out and not let him touch anything afterwards.
 
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