Let's try to use some problems solving here...
You BL shows 105, which means it's bottomed-out. The ECM is trying to remove more fuel, but 105 is the lowest it can go (IIRC). Additionally, your INT values are very low (pretty much at the bottom of their range), so the ECM is trying to supply less fuel in the short-term, but it's unable to go any lower. You did say that your O2 sensor was new, and that CC's were "all over the place", so that makes me think that the O2 is functioning correctly. You've checked fuel pressure (are you sure the gauge is OK?), and you are setting it to reasonable values. Based on this, here's a couple of questions...
1. When you are driving the car, especially at cruising condition, what does your BL show? Does it quickly go down to 105 and stay there when you have the cruise control set at a moderate speed (say 55 mph)? What I'm trying to figure out is if your car is running rich all the time, or just at idle.
2. Did the car idle fine with reasonable BL values before you changed chips/injectors?
Based on your answers, here are a couple of thoughts...
A. I've had this happen before when I've played around with burning chips. If the chip is burned for different injectors than you have (by mistake or whatever), this can happen. The chip has to be matched to both the size (60 lb) and type (brand) of injector to get the idle right. There are calibration tables in the chip that must be matched to specific injectors. First, I would call Caspers and verify exactly what injectors the chip is burned for. Second, I would make sure that the injectors are what you think they are by posting the serial numbers off of them. It's possible that somebody burned the wrong software into the chip, mislabeled the chip, or sent you the wrong injectors. Mistakes happen. In any case, never hurts to absolutely confirm what you have. If you can find another chip that is known to be burned for your 60-lb injectors, trying that would be a great way to confirm if you have a problem with either your chip or injectors.
B. I noticed that you have an ATR check valve in your PCV line. I used to have one of those, and last year I found that it had stuck in the closed position. In other words, it was frozen closed, so no air was coming into the intake through the PCV system. Might be worth a shot to remove the valve from your PCV line, confirm that you can blow through it, and maybe run the car without it to see what happens.
C. Is your oxygen sensor a stock replacement, or is it a heated type? The stock unheated oxygen sensor will cool-off when you idle for a long time and eventually stop switching (you will see the "CC" value on the scanmaster stop moving when this happens). The stock chip has software in it to account for this. I'm not sure if Casper's chip does. If you call Casper's, you might ask them about this. It's a bit of a longshot, but worth eliminating.
D. Is your fuel pressure gauge new? How confident are you that it's accurate? Do you have another gauge you can use to verify the first gauge? If your fuel pressure gauge is reading really low, and you're actually jacking pressure to something like 55 psi, this type of thing can happen.
E. Did you mess with or replace your MAF sensor? If it has become mis-calibrated (due to age or whatever), this type of thing can happen.
F. I suppose it's possible that you just got a bad O2 sensor, but I think that's a long shot.
Hopefully something here will help...
