Chiming in here, standing on the soap box.
Over the years, I have built a few directly into the engine harness (custom harness build) making it integral. Very stealth that way. The booster is triggered by TPS but can be triggered by the ECU routine if you're programming your own (XFI). This way, it can be referenced to the MAP table, or RPM table, however you need it.
The main reason you need more voltage is to supplement the ignition system - not the fuel pump, like many people believe. Let's face it, if the car is set up properly, you have way more than enough fuel volume for your application, even if the battery voltage drops a bit. Look at the delivery curve vs. battery voltage on the fuel pump spec's and you will see that delivery is generally enough even at a slightly diminished voltage. Hot-wiring the fuel pump is essential, since factory wiring exhibits too much resistance, i.e. voltage drop, for larger pumps, but using 10 gage or arc welding cable or a solid copper bus bar to feed a pump is not necessary. Don't be fooled by "bigger is better".
Any alternator you use is pretty much capable of putting out more voltage, limited by the effects of its regulator. Doesn't matter, 90 amp vs. 200 amp alternators, they all work the same, and you will still have voltage drop effects (I personally use a 105 amp alternator). It's the VOLTAGE that affects your spark, not the current. In fact, average current draw actually drops off to the CCCI when RPM increases. But, spark energy drops off substantially when voltage decreases. More voltage, greater spark.
And you need a greater spark when under boost.
But I digress. Back to the OP, volt boosters can and will help your WOT performance. Call it a band-aid if you want, but the factory system left us no good way to handle diminished charging voltage because it really wasn't necessary when the car was sold as stock.