Volt booster or no?

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There are a lot of opinions about volt boosters. Simply put there is no excuse for the added benefits of having more voltage while under power. I prefer the boost activated versions. I have been running them for at least 20 years now . I just don't see a downside to having one installed.

The only downside to the boost activated booster is obtaining a new one! :)
 
you got that right
I have been on a waiting list for a long time now. cough Hu cough sek cough
lol



If I don't end up using mine I will sell it to you.

What are they worth??
 
Yes it's a quad air V/B.

I haven't cut the wires and the unit is as it was sold, I did make a connector so I wouldn't have to cut my alt harness.

I will PM you if I decide to sell it. Also need to find out what a fair price would be for it if I do sell it.
 
The only downside to the boost activated booster is obtaining a new one! :)

Nick I sent you one, you should have received it already. I have a limited amount of them right now. They sell very quick. More are on the way, but don't know when that will be though.
 
Chiming in here, standing on the soap box.

Over the years, I have built a few directly into the engine harness (custom harness build) making it integral. Very stealth that way. The booster is triggered by TPS but can be triggered by the ECU routine if you're programming your own (XFI). This way, it can be referenced to the MAP table, or RPM table, however you need it.

The main reason you need more voltage is to supplement the ignition system - not the fuel pump, like many people believe. Let's face it, if the car is set up properly, you have way more than enough fuel volume for your application, even if the battery voltage drops a bit. Look at the delivery curve vs. battery voltage on the fuel pump spec's and you will see that delivery is generally enough even at a slightly diminished voltage. Hot-wiring the fuel pump is essential, since factory wiring exhibits too much resistance, i.e. voltage drop, for larger pumps, but using 10 gage or arc welding cable or a solid copper bus bar to feed a pump is not necessary. Don't be fooled by "bigger is better".

Any alternator you use is pretty much capable of putting out more voltage, limited by the effects of its regulator. Doesn't matter, 90 amp vs. 200 amp alternators, they all work the same, and you will still have voltage drop effects (I personally use a 105 amp alternator). It's the VOLTAGE that affects your spark, not the current. In fact, average current draw actually drops off to the CCCI when RPM increases. But, spark energy drops off substantially when voltage decreases. More voltage, greater spark.

And you need a greater spark when under boost.

But I digress. Back to the OP, volt boosters can and will help your WOT performance. Call it a band-aid if you want, but the factory system left us no good way to handle diminished charging voltage because it really wasn't necessary when the car was sold as stock.
Why is it not common place for people to hot wire the CCCI plug??? You don't see that near as much as you see hot wiring the pumps????
 
I run a hotwired ccci but it's not really needed with the tr6 ignition module according to Bob. It helped when I ran the stock ignition module though. If you buy an alt with adjustable regulator or outfit your alt with an externally adjustable regulator and run 14 volts or so all the time, a vb is not needed. Not saying they don't work, but there are other ways.

I personally feel tuning is easier with steady voltage, but of course you can tune around the vb.

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I ran Red's VB years back with my original, non progressive alky. Way before Razor's progressive kit, PowerLogger and wideband so I was not nearly as informed. Anyway, I was just drowning in fuel and alky. Couldn't get the car to run the way it did on race gas with VB. So I disconnected it, it's still there. It runs great now, but I have often wished for a way to get back that 14 volt wake up, it really ran well when it came on. Great thread, I'm looking forward to hearing some tips on how to implement it's use again.
 
I run QA volt booster with the XFI and Alky Control with no problem. I just have to adjust the fueling with the XFI to compensate for the alky coming on.
 
I run a hotwired ccci but it's not really needed with the tr6 ignition module according to Bob. It helped when I ran the stock ignition module though. If you buy an alt with adjustable regulator or outfit your alt with an externally adjustable regulator and run 14 volts or so all the time, a vb is not needed. Not saying they don't work, but there are other ways.

I personally feel tuning is easier with steady voltage, but of course you can tune around the vb.

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Im still on the stock ignition...When your CCCI was hot wired what did you notice?? Quicker throttle response??
 
Nick I sent you one, you should have received it already. I have a limited amount of them right now. They sell very quick. More are on the way, but don't know when that will be though.
I guess you have one on the side for me? Especially since i have been waiting forever?????
 
Im still on the stock ignition...When your CCCI was hot wired what did you notice?? Quicker throttle response??

I did it in hopes of making the modules and coil packs last longer. I was really burning through them with the amount of miles I was driving the car. It did help that. I got two years out of a module and or coil pack instead of just one!
 
I did it in hopes of making the modules and coil packs last longer. I was really burning through them with the amount of miles I was driving the car. It did help that. I got two years out of a module and or coil pack instead of just one!
Good to know!!! I haven't really had any ignition module or coil packs go bad that I can think of...I have changed them plenty of times thinking that was the issue with problems over the years, but always turned out to be something else....
 
I use one,the added volts will richen afr on the alkycontrol kit as the pump works off volts,can be easily tuned around with the controller or any adjustable chip or xfi.in the sticky in the alky section there is plenty of info on this.
 
Funny how i was called an idiot by a guru from another board for saying that i would tune around the V-Booster.
Mean while everyone is doing just that and it seems to be working just fine.
 
Funny how i was called an idiot by a guru from another board for saying that i would tune around the V-Booster.
Mean while everyone is doing just that and it seems to be working just fine.


I'm tuning with the original SD chip, a Caspers volt booster and an Alkycontrol kit. Works great.

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