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Welding a cast iron engine block

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86 TR

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Joined
Mar 9, 2007
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Is it possible to weld an engine block? I have a standard bore 109 thats in great shape except for one small detail.

When the block was shipped someone dropped it on the starter pad and broke half of the mounting hole off. Of course the piece that broke off was never found.

Just wondering if it could be fixed. I would hate to throw away a good block.
 
It's been done before.. A friend bought an Indy block that the "ears" had been cut off to fit into the cars. He welded one on and never had any problems.
On that note I don't know what wire he used or the prep that went into it. All I seen was the finished product.
 
There's rod for arc-welding cast iron. Look up the process for welding cast iron. There's a lot more to it than regular mig or tig welding.

I have done cast iron exhaust elbows from turbo's on older fords with no issue. I was instructed to pre-heat the iron before welding and take it slow.
 
There's rod for arc-welding cast iron. Look up the process for welding cast iron. There's a lot more to it than regular mig or tig welding.

I have done cast iron exhaust elbows from turbo's on older fords with no issue. I was instructed to pre-heat the iron before welding and take it slow.

What he said. The heating step is very important to the adhearance and longevity, from what I remember. It's been24+years and technology has come a long way since then I'm sure.
If the ear that's broken off doesn't comprise more than 30% of the threads it would have been possible to braze it back on and it probably would have held for many years.
 
To weld cast iron the size of a block would be way more expensive than getting another block. The entire block has to be heated to a uniform temp and then welded with a high nickel rod. Then put back in the furnace and slowly broght back down to room temp. If you had the old part you'd be better off but with the piece missing that means you'd need to have the area machined to fit when you're done. If this was an expensive antique then it would be worth it but since it's a part that's fairly inexpensive it wouldn't be worth it in the end.;) If you're really wanting to do it I've got 1 guy in Waco that I know can do it but I'd hate to see what he'd charge for the work.:eek:
 
There's rod for arc-welding cast iron. Look up the process for welding cast iron. There's a lot more to it than regular mig or tig welding.

I have done cast iron exhaust elbows from turbo's on older fords with no issue. I was instructed to pre-heat the iron before welding and take it slow.
I HAD A BLOCK WELDED ON A 5.7 V8 SUBURBAN. THE BLOCK AND SURROUNDED AREA WAS HEATED WITH A TORCH AND WELDED(SMALL AREA-RE-HEAT, WELD).. THAT WAS DONE IN 2000, AND IT IS STILL ONE THE ROAD TODAY... IT CAN BE DONE..
 
Well I guess I will take the block to my local machinist and see what he can do. I think he has fixed blocks before.

As long as it doesnt cost too much.
 
if you were closer id say bring the beer and we do it for free by furnace brazing it.

best bet is to try and pre-heat the area and weld the spot back on with a nickel cast iron rod.

go and buy or borrow an electric charcoal lighter. lay it on the area you want to weld (after prepping the area for the repair) and just give it time..... when the block is a all around 250-300* let er rip and weld it up... then just leave the heater on and slowly start bringing the temp down. done. just give the ol block a bit of a tolerance check, cause the heat and welding can move things around.
 
There was a roots blown stage 2 buick v6 on ebay a while back. It must have been built from one of the indy v6 blocks that had the starter pad cut off for header clearance. It had a machined aluminum starter pad that was bolted in place of where the original casting was. I wish I had saved a picture to show it more clearly.

Basically, wherever your block is broken, have it machined flat back to an area where there is plenty of material and have a new section machined in aluminum and bolted on.
 
I had to find it through a google search. It wouldn't come up with any combination of searching on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-V6-Grand-National-Motor-/200589239639

motor2.jpg

motor11.jpg
 
I've had a 109 deck welded where it was burned. It was a nickel rod. It was also hard as hell to cut afterward. It wasn't a problem at 800+hp.
 
i have used my tig and an old cast iron piston ring as filler to repair a cylinder head. there's youtube videos demonstrating this technique. in the starter area it shouldn't be that big of a deal to build up the missing material and redrill/tap the hole. practice on something junk, preheat and cool it slow, it can be done.
 
Another option..... as I had a freiend break one side of the mounting tab off the starter similar to yours and he used the adhesive they put truck body panels with at the body shop and it has held fine. Thats some strong crap!!!
 
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