One thing I would look at is the main web casting marks on #3 from the saddle to the cam bearing bores. A crack here could cause a tight bearing after it has run a while even though it has been line honed, and it is very hard to see it if it is just starting. Magnafluxing the block would show it. If the crank will not turn by hand with the caps torqued, you have a problem. That's assuming the crank mikes out OK and is straight, and the clearances are correct. The bearings in the photo look like they were pretty tight. Just something to consider while it is apart. You may have had the block checked on the first build, but if not, you may want to do it now.