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What's the secret to getting an aftermarket flat tappet cam to live??

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87LtdT

Active Member
Joined
May 26, 2001
Messages
1,166
Seems I'm reading about wiped cams, improper break-in, etc way to often to make me think I can install a 206/206 without an expectation that it'll be wiped in X,000 miles.

Why is there such a problem with this??

Thanks, Bob
 
It may be a PITA to do, but DO NOT run new springs with the new cam...If you can, break in the cam with an old set of used, weak stockers, and then swap them out later for the new springs...You basically want the lifters to spin while breaking in the cam, and with the higher lift aftermarket cams and stiffer springs that people usually put on at the same time, makes it harder for the lifter to spin and break-in properly...With the lifter bore mis-match that these blocks have, every little bit you do to help break-in the lifters to the cam will help...

Don't forget to use plenty of break-in lube on the cam lobes and do the proper rpm procedure for the minimum of about 20 mins while breaking it in...

JMO...
 
One of the main reasons is due to bad lifter bore index. If the lifter bore does not line up right with the cam lob there will not be good lifter rotation. This is why you will see lifter bores bored and lined in allot of race motors.
 
keep in mind that valve float will take one out faster than too much pressure...so if break it in with light weight springs dont go out ragging on it till you get the pressures up
 
Use about 5 1/2 to 6 quarts of oil and a can of GM EOS and
do your procedure of breaking in the new cam by keeping
the revs between 1500 and 2800 for about 20 minutes, change
your oil and go, also if you are going to use heavier than a stock
spring you should break in with the old springs and then change them out, this has worked for me, Ron
 
Another thing that works is heating up the oil just before you start it. Heat it up on the stove top to bout 180ish and poor it in and start it. Just make sure your all ready to go before hand.
 
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