Which route should I go
- Thread starter LilSpann601
- Start date
LilSpann601
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2008
YEs!!! today i got the motor to stay running i just plugged the egr port with a t shirt and it started running i could definately tell the difference in the cam sounds like a little monster...all i need know is a carb gasket
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
I wouldn't be starting it anymore until you break the cam in. Don't want it going flat
LilSpann601
New Member
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- Jul 13, 2008
How would i go about breaking the cam in???
LilSpann601
New Member
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- Jul 13, 2008
update: found a t at the hardware store and 2 nipples and a clear plastic tube for the oil feed line..also jb welded the egr manifold....next thing to do is to do the vacuums
No No No No!!!
Do NOT use plastic. It won't hold up to the temp or presure. Buy a bender or get oil resistant braided line from a hydrolics supply or auto parts store that makes hydrolic lines.
Do NOT use plastic. It won't hold up to the temp or presure. Buy a bender or get oil resistant braided line from a hydrolics supply or auto parts store that makes hydrolic lines.
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
20 mins for cam break in hold between 2-3k and fluctuate. Make sure you use cam break in additive!!!!!
It shouldn't be too tough to find a oil feed line for the turbo. If all else fails buy a NEW one from classic tube. They're only about 30 bucks.
It shouldn't be too tough to find a oil feed line for the turbo. If all else fails buy a NEW one from classic tube. They're only about 30 bucks.
LilSpann601
New Member
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- Jul 13, 2008
dr_frankenstein
Mad Scientist
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2008
That clear hose aint gonna last.................better re think that one.
A.j.
A.j.
LilSpann601
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2008
its just for testing into I get it running then i will change it
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
ur gonna fluck that cam up if you keep starting and stopping it. I've done it before when I couldn't get my camaro to stay running:frown:
Also, you need to fix the routing on your pass side plug wires. THose things will be scorched by the time you get it up to temp. They need to be ran along the bottom side lip of the valve cover to keep from burning.
Also, you need to fix the routing on your pass side plug wires. THose things will be scorched by the time you get it up to temp. They need to be ran along the bottom side lip of the valve cover to keep from burning.
LilSpann601
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2008
ok thanks when i asked for the line at autozone he said he needed to know what vehicle even though i told him its for the oil line.. well actually i got it to stay running but it was shotting flames out of the exhaust manifold i think this is due to timing or carb
Down here they let u go in the back and pick youre line out.They come in different lenghs. span get everything togheter to break that cam in
LilSpann601
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2008
well now i need yall help again...damn car wont stay running...i know its either the carb and the disb...can someone explain to me how the gas travels down the turbo plenum and how do i hook this up...*power valve*....also is it necessary for me to use my old oil pressure switch...i deleted everything and went mechincal...shouldn't my disb work with this turbo...it doesn't have a vac.. just 3 plugs run to it
If you don't have an advance unit you've got the wrong distributor. The air/fuel mix is drawn into the plenum and then compressed in the turbo. It works simular to an NA set up until the turbo.
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
Gotta have stuff matched up. Non feedback carb uses retard box and vac advance. feedback uses ecm, knock sensor, etc
LilSpann601
New Member
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- Jul 13, 2008
ok how can i tell the diff in vac advance disb????? we have a near by pull apart???....and i need to know what to look for....as for as retard box whats tha cheapest everyone i see that has retard control or something is damn near 400
If you don't have the factory retard box you need to use an MSD 6al with a btm modual. Both puter and non puter use a retard box. Have you timed the engine yet? If not, take the cap and rotor off, line the timing marks up on the balancer and cover to specs and see if the teeth line up. If they don't loosen the distributor and line up the teeth. If you advance it just a bit from there it will work better but take the waste gate accuator off the waste gate so the turbo wont load the engine. That should at least allow it to run long enough to break in the cam. The diff on the distributor is whether it has a vac advance or not. If you find one with both a vac advance, three wire and a 4 wire conector then you have a bastard child . You need one that has a three wire conector and vac advance.
