which turbo ?

[wmerrell]

you can run the 44 or 62 turbo to low 11's.i went 11.1 on a 49,and a friend of mine went 10.7 on a 44.

I would like to know what it takes to get a 49 to run 11.1, it would sure save me some money.
At my last tune it was told to me that due to back pressure the boost couldn't be turned up pass 20lbs.
It seems that if you want low 11's the current thought on this board is to go with a 6262 turbo.

 

[jasjamz]

I would like to know what it takes to get a 49 to run 11.1, it would sure save me some money.
At my last tune it was told to me that due to back pressure the boost couldn't be turned up pass 20lbs.
It seems that if you want low 11's the current thought on this board is to go with a 6262 turbo.

I would like to know this too. I am one of those that say go with the 6262. It is a great unit. It is just under a $1000 and will last you down into the mid tens. If one is trying to go mid 11 the car most likely has a converter change already. Some cars have serious long blocks, throw on a 49 and do it with ease. Others say they have done it with stock short blocks. Spill the beans gentlemen...LOL how much boost and timing are you using to put a full weight stock long block in the low 11's with 44 or 49

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

X2 !!!! guys build 9 sec cars then run in the 12s cause they don't want to take a chance of hurting it If ya do a search on "Melissa" in time slips her old mid 11 combo that she ran forever (mid 90s to early 2000's) with is in there somewhere. 11.4s @ 118 from what I remember.. stock motor with simple junk done to it.

The real issue is the reason these 9 sec combos are running 12's is in the tune, which isn't safe. A 70mm turbo on a 11 sec car isn't making anymore power than a smaller turbo.

I have a friend going 11.35@117 with 26psi with a TE44 and another friend going 11.36@118 with a TE60@24psi. Both cars are full bolt on stock longblock. The TE44 car is floating the valves. Hopefully next spring we will have the problem addressed and both cars will be in the 10's with stock engines and small old school turbos. Funny how everybody has to have a new billet wheel, and now all you hear about is the new CEA turbine wheel.

Ya I have watched fast guys get their butt kicked with Melissa's old set up. It is fun to watch them squirm Oh and of course everyone NEEDS all the newest "Cool guy" parts !! :biggrin:

Guys please don't knock us for trying to be safe and having a cool guy part here and there.
Look at me i CANNOT afford to brake things and SPECIALLY do them TWICE.
so on my next build (which i am starting soon) i will be another one of them guys building a 10 second car to only go 11.50 i figure its cheaper to over build once then to under build 3 times plus since i have no clue about what i am doing hopefully the combo can survive my screw ups.

Sorry back on topic
What turbo this guys needs??

 

[bison]

I would like to know this too. I am one of those that say go with the 6262. It is a great unit. It is just under a $1000 and will last you down into the mid tens. If one is trying to go mid 11 the car most likely has a converter change already. Some cars have serious long blocks, throw on a 49 and do it with ease. Others say they have done it with stock short blocks. Spill the beans gentlemen...LOL how much boost and timing are you using to put a full weight stock long block in the low 11's with 44 or 49

25-28psi depending on a few different things. Timing in the 23-26* range depending on cylinder fill. Probably not going anywhere near there on 93 octane. Look at the compressor map for the to4e 60 trim and run the turbo so it's high and to the right of the efficiency islands. Gear the car to run 120+ while staying under 5000 as long as possible. All this has been posted b4. You're going to need a good nl converter or something that can be locked at wot. Peak power around 4400. Not too many have run 11.0 or faster with ease with a 44/49

 

[bison]

Guys please don't knock us for trying to be safe and having a cool guy part here and there.
Look at me i CANNOT afford to brake things and SPECIALLY do them TWICE.
so on my next build (which i am starting soon) i will be another one of them guys building a 10 second car to only go 11.50 i figure its cheaper to over build once then to under build 3 times plus since i have no clue about what i am doing hopefully the combo can survive my screw ups.

Sorry back on topic
What turbo this guys needs??

If you can't afford to break things then you are involved in the wrong hobby. There is nothing cheap about any of it and once the car is modified and raced it will eventually break stuff. The cost to build a 10 sec car that will have some amount of reliability isn't cheap. Including the cost of the car most are looking at close to $20k

 

[RUQWKNF]

The cost to build a 10 sec car that will have some amount of reliability isn't cheap. Including the cost of the car most are looking at close to $20k

Quote worthy right there.

Patrick

 

[wmerrell]

25-28psi depending on a few different things. Timing in the 23-26* range depending on cylinder fill. Probably not going anywhere near there on 93 octane. Look at the compressor map for the to4e 60 trim and run the turbo so it's high and to the right of the efficiency islands. Gear the car to run 120+ while staying under 5000 as long as possible. All this has been posted b4. You're going to need a good nl converter or something that can be locked at wot. Peak power around 4400. Not too many have run 11.0 or faster with ease with a 44/49

Went to a reputable tuner and was told due to back pressure my TA 49 could not be adjusted to 25 lbs of boost. What does that mean?

 

[bison]

Went to a reputable tuner and was told due to back pressure my TA 49 could not be adjusted to 25 lbs of boost. What does that mean?

running more than 24-25psi on one of those with a standard actuator is not easy. It means you need more spring in your wastegate to counteract the backpressure. A heavy duty actuator and possibly another external spring added that is putting added tension has been used in the past

 

[Quik Six]

Funny how everybody has to have a new billet wheel, and now all you hear about is the new CEA turbine wheel.

Might be a good reason for him to expand his choice of turbos. Should be quite a few of the smaller billet compressor turbos show up for sale with low miles and low prices.

 

[zacks gn]

I decided on the te44 with a hd waste gate. 2800 stall tc 42 or 60 lbs injectors an alky kit ported big valve iron heads lt1 springs and a 206/206 or a 212/212 cam 3in downpipe with 21/2 exhaust

 

[wmerrell]

I decided on the te44 with a hd waste gate. 2800 stall tc 42 or 60 lbs injectors an alky kit ported big valve iron heads lt1 springs and a 206/206 or a 212/212 cam 3in downpipe with 21/2 exhaust

That sounds like a good set up.
Any ideas as to the horsepower or 1/4 track times for that combo?

 

[bison]

He will hit a lot of backpressure around 4500rpm before he makes any appreciable power with that small turbine. The cam and heads will want to go at least another 700-800rpm. On the 212/212 engine i did a bunch of testing with which had worse heads it hit sever backpressure around 400whp. Switching back to the p trim i was back up to 460-470whp change with no other changes except the added fuel to feed it.

 

[Smokin-6]

He will hit a lot of backpressure around 4500rpm before he makes any appreciable power with that small turbine. The cam and heads will want to go at least another 700-800rpm. On the 212/212 engine i did a bunch of testing with which had worse heads it hit sever backpressure around 400whp. Switching back to the p trim i was back up to 460-470whp change with no other changes except the added fuel to feed it.

What do you mean by "back pressure"? If he has a 6262 would that be better??

 

[bison]

I mean back pressure. Ive tested a bunch of this stuff and the T31 will not make useful power with heads and cam over 4600. It just dies off. If you want to use a small turbine like that you need to build the car to operate at lower rpm's. Really tall tires and converter lock shifting well before 5000rpm. A 6262 will not have the back pressure but will require much more converter to get the same spoolup.

 

[jasjamz]

LOL...someone suggested the 6262 and got jumped on. Oh well guess he'll have to deal with it now. One of the features of the 6262 is the reduced back pressure due to the exhaust wheel design is it not? That's been stated since they came out.

 

[bison]

LOL...someone suggested the 6262 and got jumped on. Oh well guess he'll have to deal with it now. One of the features of the 6262 is the reduced back pressure due to the exhaust wheel design is it not? That's been stated since they came out.

There is no doubt the 6262 would have a lot less backpressure. Spool would be lazy unless he had a 9.5" though. The 5857 would probably be the best compromise. If he bought a 9.5" I would definitely go with a 62 ex wheel. It would deal better with power potential of the 6262.

 

[marleyskater420]

There is no doubt the 6262 would have a lot less backpressure. Spool would be lazy unless he had a 9.5" though. The 5857 would probably be the best compromise. If he bought a 9.5" I would definitely go with a 62 ex wheel. It would deal better with power potential of the 6262.

What is your opinion on the new CEA 66exhaust wheel vs. the 65 that PTE had previously? It seemed like the 65ex wheel already flowed plenty well for up to 35psi? What advantage (if any) would there be in going to the 66 wheel?

 

[John Wilde]

What is your opinion on the new CEA 66exhaust wheel vs. the 65 that PTE had previously? It seemed like the 65ex wheel already flowed plenty well for up to 35psi? What advantage (if any) would there be in going to the 66 wheel?

Tyler,

I have no doubt that Precision did their homework with the new 66 Turbine Wheel.
A shop out of Chicago made 852RWHP with a 6266 on a high compression E85 Supra Motor.
These motors spin a lot of rpm and are a lot more efficient than our combinations.

However most 3.8 Buicks don't push their combinations enough to even max out the 62 Turbine wheel.
Those people would not go any faster going from the 62 to 65, let alone the 66 Turbine IMO.
Someone willing to run 30 plus psi and has a motor that makes power past 6000 rpm would see a difference.

 

[John Wilde]

Why not consider the Billet 5862?
It has enough compressor for your goals and the turbine would not choke your motors flow potential.

http://www.precisionturbo.net/Stree...Street-and-Race-Turbocharger---PT5862-CEA/233

I am dying for someone to try one on a Buick.

 

[ZNix]

Have you thought about any of the new Entry-Level turbos? I myself do not have the money for the 5857 or 5862, but I am sure the TA52 or 54 will suffice for my needs (Mid - Low 11's). I may have misread, but those are his goals as well?