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WTF is with rockershaft shims???

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yullose

Certified Gun Nut
Joined
Apr 9, 2005
Messages
1,477
Now I have a junk cylinder head... and no car to take to OC MD this weekend.

The DS head cracked in the rocker stand saddle because shims were used for valve adjustment. I haven't even looked at the PS head yet, but I assume it's junk too.


I pulled the valve covers and rockers so I could retorque the heads (as instructed by previous owner) and when going back together, the center stand wouldn't tighten... I was hoping it was just a stripped thread or twisted bolt... but no... the head is fvcking JUNK now. It's obvious in the pic that it was cracked before it even came apart... (see oil trace & dry area)

The shims increase the shaft diameter, causing the saddle to spread and crack.

If these were just stock junk heads it wouldn't be as upsetting... but these are VPE race ported heads.

I'm so friggin mad right now I could smash something. :mad:


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I'm pretty sure that can be fixed.

The pedistal on one of my aluminum GN1 heads broke like that and Champion was able to fix it for me and it's been about 5 years now and no other problems with it.


John :smile:
 
The only way I can possibly imagine it being repaired is by completely milling-off the stands and using a solid replacement stand.

Otherwise I will need to either match a stock head to the VPE flow numbers (provided the other head mags OK)
or just replace both heads completely... and using an adjustable valvetrain.
 
This might also be a good excuse for me to just yank the whole motor out and put a turbo'd smallblock Chevy in it. ;)
 
It's not the end of the head or the world for that matter. Bring that head to welder that knows what they'rd doing with cast iron and I'm sure they can put it back together for you.
 
If it was to be welded, it should be bolted to a block, and they would have to be heated for hours. Even at that, it may still end up seriously warped.

Been there, done that with 109 blocks for minor welding. Block needs to have machine operations to "square" it again, not cheap.

Sorry to see that, just my opinion, but may be less expensive in the long run to have another head ported?:confused:
 
If it was to be welded, it should be bolted to a block, and they would have to be heated for hours. Even at that, it may still end up seriously warped.

Been there, done that with 109 blocks for minor welding. Block needs to have machine operations to "square" it again, not cheap.

Sorry to see that, just my opinion, but may be less expensive in the long run to have another head ported?:confused:


That's what I'll do, since the other head doesn't appear to be cracked. I'll still magnaflux it to be safe though... and you better believe it will have adjustable rockers on it next time.
 
And this is how my day ended...

I yanked the motor out and stripped it down to the shortblock...

I friggin hate working over the fenders... and it's only a few extra bolts to just yank it out of the car...


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I wish I had the room in my garage to tear everything out cuz that's how I feel right now, sick if trying to work in the engine bay.

I'm pissed at my car too, so cheers.
 
I wish I had the room in my garage to tear everything out cuz that's how I feel right now, sick if trying to work in the engine bay.

I'm pissed at my car too, so cheers.

You know what's funny ? just 3 days ago I could barely squeeze my car into the 4-car garage... so I spent a couple days trashing junk and organizing. Just so happens that I needed that new found space today. ;)


I just had a brainstorm since sitting down at the puter...

I think I will run these heads up to my buddys shop (Andy Jensen) and let him have a look at them. I bet he will want to mill-off the pedestals and make new ones. :cool:
 
-"I bet he will want to mill-off the pedestals and make new ones".

i vote for that way but be sure you have enough
material to built a strong thread
if you tap 3/8 you need a minimum of 9/16
of implantation ( bolt diameter X 1.5 = minimum in steel )


cp
 
And on your way back, stop off to get a new, fresh can of pink paint to touch up that torque converter...:biggrin:
 
I have just what you need to fix that broken pedistal. I have machined shaft mounts that slide over the rocker shaft. They were made years ago so we could machine the pedistals off and place shims under these tool steel blocks. Never caught on, though. I still have a few of them. PM me for my number. I can post pics later tonight if you need to see them. you could use a grinder and a sanding disc and get it real close. Use shims to get it exact.
I still shim rocker shafts all the time. BUT........I use aluminum washers, not steel washers. I knew a guy years ago that did exactly what you just did. I told him to shim his shafts up. I told him to use aluminum washers. He figured it would be beter to use grade 8 washers. OOPS!
 
Do you have 6 of them ? I plan to do both heads...:D


I talked to my engine machinist earlier today (Andy Jensen) and he too seemed to think this was the best option to save the heads...

Pics would be awesome !!!

I even thought about a single hunk of bar stock all the way across the top of the head, so I could use screw-in studs and Chevy rockers.
 
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