28-30psi with grainger valve?

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KEVINS

Post count: 24,375
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
2,991
Does anyone use a grainger valve to control boost levels around 28-30 psi?
If so did you modify the spring or ?? to get this much boost?
I've added a spacer to compress the spring more and even tried stretching it a little but it still only goes up to around 24psi max.
I may have to find a stiffer spring if noone has a good method to try.

tia
kd
 
most likely, backpressure in the turbine is pushing the gate open.

how tight is the wastegate?

B
 
Fairly snug actually. I had to pull the rod maybe 3/8" to connect it to the wg. I'm thinking about making it a lot tighter for the reason you mentioned if you think that is necessary...?

ks
 
not exactly what I meant...

what is your boost without the grainger valve? And is it a real "grainger" type or one made from a brass T fitting?

B
 
Does anyone use a grainger valve to control boost levels around 28-30 psi?
If so did you modify the spring or ?? to get this much boost?
I've added a spacer to compress the spring more and even tried stretching it a little but it still only goes up to around 24psi max.
I may have to find a stiffer spring if noone has a good method to try.

tia
kd

I can't get 25psi out of my TE44 anymore without wiring the wastegate shut. As Bob mentioned, you have too much pressure on the exhaust side to keep the gate closed. I was always told a stock turbo starts blowing hot air above 22psi on even a stock engine. And you weant 111mph on one so that's getting it done. Time to upgrade probably to a bigger compressor if you want to go faster and run 30psi; but I'm def no turbo expert. I capped around 110mph on my stocker though but I stopped at 22psi; maybe I just don't try hard enough :confused:
 
I didn't even see the "stock turbo" in his sig......


28 psi? I don't think its worth the battle to get there.

B
 
not exactly what I meant...

what is your boost without the grainger valve? And is it a real "grainger" type or one made from a brass T fitting?

B
I just installed a Precision 5831 (TE44 upgrade) yesterday..
Yes, it's a Grainger valve but I have no idea what the boost is w/o the g-valve connected.

ks
 
most likely you need a stronger spring in your actuator.

Garrett turbine housing or Precision?

B
 
nothing wrong with the precision.

Remove the grainger valve and see what your boost is.

Bob
 
I can't get 25psi out of my TE44 anymore without wiring the wastegate shut.
This is what you did to get more boost?
What creative way did you do this? This is something that I may have to do myself then.

ks
 
don't wire it shut, but get a heavy-ass spring from the hardware store and add it to the wastegate. (stretch it between the flapper arm and the actuator bracket to add tension)

get your base (non-grainger) boost up over 20, and the grainger valve should get you to 28ish.

Bob
 
don't wire it shut, but get a heavy-ass spring from the hardware store and add it to the wastegate. (stretch it between the flapper arm and the actuator bracket to add tension)

get your base (non-grainger) boost up over 20, and the grainger valve should get you to 28ish.

Bob
Ah.. Kewl beans!

Thanks guys!

ks
 
On a separate note, does MightyVac or ?? pressurize lines? I'd like to use a pressure pump of some sort to pressurize the G-Valve so I can set the boost pressure instead of relying on trial and error.

ks
 
they have mityvac's that do (I have one), I have never set a grainger valve with it. Let me know if you try it.

Bob
 
Thats why there are two versions of the factory WG. a standard and an HD one. The HD ones minimum boost is 18-20. Due to the higher spring pressure inside the can. Shouldnt have an issue getting boost up with an HD unit and a grainger valve.

Creep may be your next enemy tho
 
If you are at the limit of the turbocharger typically you can't make more boost. It will just hit a wall and boost will drop off as rpm increases. Or it will make a lot of heat with a small increase in boost and power will fall off. You can overcome backpressure with a heavier spring which in some cases will have so much tension it's like wiring it shut. The boost pressure isn't as important as the engines ability to swallow mass flow. 28psi/55 lbs/min or 25psi/80lbs/min? I'll take the 80 lb/min combo. I'll bet it gets it done a lot faster than the 55lb/min combo.
 
If you are at the limit of the turbocharger typically you can't make more boost. It will just hit a wall and boost will drop off as rpm increases. Or it will make a lot of heat with a small increase in boost and power will fall off. You can overcome backpressure with a heavier spring which in some cases will have so much tension it's like wiring it shut. The boost pressure isn't as important as the engines ability to swallow mass flow. 28psi/55 lbs/min or 25psi/80lbs/min? I'll take the 80 lb/min combo. I'll bet it gets it done a lot faster than the 55lb/min combo.
I agree 100% if I was building a motor for it but at this point I have no idea what the limit is on this Precision 5831 is on a stock motor.... I'm guessing it's a lot more than my only test run I got in since it was set up for my stock turbo I just replaced.

ks
 
I agree 100% if I was building a motor for it but at this point I have no idea what the limit is on this Precision 5831 is on a stock motor.... I'm guessing it's a lot more than my only test run I got in since it was set up for my stock turbo I just replaced.

ks
With stock heads and cam you should be able to get it to go up around 30psi. The old t04e 60 wheel dies off around 53lbs/min. Id be interested if Precisions replacement goes beyond that. Ive seen the t04e 60 wheel in an s cover and it still died around 53 lbs/min. Stock cam and headed engines will hit max flow with boost in the high 20's since the engine is inefficient and an engine with a cleaned up set of heads has a better time because the PR will be a little lower where it is on the fattest part of the edge of the map. The map stops at 50 lbs/min so running the hell out of it on a high pressure application over 2.4:1 PR is throwing it way off the map and limiting its potential a little. Just a quick bowl cleanup and valve job would help that compressor out a bunch. The precision housing is a better choice if you are looking to maximize any given compressor. It will be a little lazier if the converter is not right though. Looks like the T04e on a high revving 4 cylinder application that needs around 2.8:1 PR to make 400-425hp is hard to beat. The 5831 should at least equal it. T04E 60 below:

to4e60.gif
 
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