9 sec street driver how do I do this?

[Darren]

I don't have much knowlege with Buick GN setup so please help. I have a car that needs to be build to beat a 9.90 car on the street. The guy has most of what he needs but it seem the engine he has will not be sutiable for the task. This is what we have let me know what you think will work and what will not. every thing I will list is new in the box. Turbonetics ball bearing t72 /.82 a/r gn bb, 72lb injectors, 109 block with girtle, -.020 stock crank, stock rods with arp rod bolts, J&E pistons, ESP C&C heads, T&D Shaft rockers, Flat tappit Cam, Stock intake 70mm tb and housing, Big front mounted intercooler, FAST BtoB computor, SX pump, Race Gate, Reglator, Vig 4400 convertor, New 200r4 with all the tricks done to it, 9" rear diff with 3.42, nogilor iror case, billet yoke, Good axles, Hotckis rear upper and lower adj control arms, giant rear sway bar, New aluminum Radator. Ok Thats is the list. Should I ditch the motor and go wiht a stage II engine. I understand that I will be changing head gaskets often if I don't. Also how much boost should I expect to run to get into the nines. Will It be able to drive on the street to race? I know you guys are thinking "who is this clown!" Look I do allot of cars for special customers. This is just another adventure for me.

 

[Intercooler]

Use this feature with your 9 second quest and see what comes up: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/search.php?s=

 

[Darren]

I guess there are not many 9 second street cars out thier.

 

[Intercooler]

Yes and no. Yes they are out there but most have Stage 2 engines in them. The stock block even with helpers doesn't hold up well to that kind of power.

 

[azgn]

nah, you won't be changing headgaskets, you'll be changing blocks!....unless this car weighs around 3000 lbs, you got a problem.....9 sec tr's just aren't all that common and the ones you can drive on the street are even rarer

all your parts are good except the block.......non stage blocks are not reliable above about 650 hp....figure out how much hp you need and you'll have your answer

 

[Wolfj359]

Build a stage II motor and 9's are easy. Get some fully ported GN1 heads and a big solid roller cam along with a BIG turbo and IC with the fuel and safety equipment to match and you can run high 8's like some guys are doing on a stock rear suspension car......

 

[geno]

Ive been 9.90 in my street car that has a 109 block but they dont live long at that level It can be done though but it might cost you a block if you race every weekend like i did.

 

[HighPSI]

I do a LOT of street racing and I don't think you have what it takes. IMO: This is Stage motor territory. Are you saying the car you have to beat runs 9.90's on the street? If so, you will need to build a mid 9 sec (at the track) car to beat him. You are also going to need to set up your suspension for the street. When my suspension is set up for the street, I can't even make a pass at the track (wheelstands). Most street races are won within the first 60'. I would use a boost controler that allows you to "ramp" the spoolup according to how the car hooks. Plan on running a pretty big turbo (lag can be your friend on the street), and try to get as much mph as you can. Also, scale the car and get it as close to 50/50 as you can. Feel free to email me privately.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

NINEZ ON THE ST??

I think the concept of "9's on the street" takes ALOT more to accomplish than is listed in your post. As Cal said, street trim and a TRUE mid nine trim are FAR, FAR apart!! In looking at the parts you have, I see several items that will not be useable, thus the advice to go to a stage based engine appears to me to be the most viable approach.

A basic plan of attack, using the advice from those that "BTDT", and ideas from proven combos will, in most cases, avoid the "do it twice" syndrome...

In the FWIW dept; I've "BTDT" and it's EXPENSIVE to go 9's.. Take Geno's word for it!! HAVE FUN!!

 

[geno]

I think Cal and Chuck are right about needing a stage block A 109 block just wont live in the 9,s and is just a matter of time before it breaks. Cal do you change the IC when out on the street picking on people? Some of the guys that are fast on the street around here have roller bearings instead of control arms bushings and run no shock up front. They hook pretty hard because the weight transfer is so quick. I dont think i would like to be going 130+ mph with no front shocks One guy has the roller bearing front end and has a cable that is pulled by a air ram connected to his lower control arms. He has a small air tank and when the car hits 3rd it activates the ram and pulls the front end down..Its kinda cool and you hardly see it because he used emergency brake cables

 

[1320]

I agree 100% with these guys.....

Most cars don t come close to the track et on the street....

Some of us have been pretty sucessful if we set a car up to not fal off as much........and like Cal said most are won or lost in the first 60 ft......

 

[GNSCOTT]

I'd love to see a 9 sec car hook at all on the streets. Just imagine a track with that crappy pavement and no treatment on it. I think a low 9 sec car would have his hands full.

 

[Darren]

Thanks Guys. Just so you know the car he wants to beat probably runs 10.20 on the street. Its a hole different story when you are tring to leave on the street. The big tire trans brake cars just don't cut it if there is no rubber down to leave on. Where you win is if you can mile an hour on the big end. Now if you can leave on them and mph them you got something.

This Car he wants to beat is a car I built, So I can't loose eathier way!!! One will come back to me wanting more.

Thanks Cal for speaking with me today. The guy will spend the money to get your set up. So we need a price.

The stage II I found today; Tell me if I need to keep looking Its a bush Grand national motor.
4.1 oncenter block bored .020 over so now 4.020
It has 2 sleives in the rear 2 cycl.
It has steel splayed 4 bolt caps
crank Buick motor sports 3.59
Carrilo rods 6.5
carb intake
stage II heads 38cc chambers tita valves
Jessell rockers
GM Performance harmonic balencer
distributor
Crank trigger

 

[GNSCOTT]

I paid $2800 for the same set up with a perfect condition block (no sleeves). Just did a google.com search trying every possible angle..ie. Buick motorsports 4.1 for sale , Buick stage 2for sale , buick stage II for sale. etc...takes some time, but well worth saving $$$ers like that.

 

[Darren]

I can get all of this for $3000. Is this what I want?

 

[azgn]

are you planning on running a carb? (non turbo)

 

[Darren]

No it will be injected.

 

[azgn]

you may want to take your questions to the Stage II section of the board.....I think if the block, crank & internals are good on the motor you are looking at, you still have a big way to go....oiling, trans, intake, heads ( most Stage II heads are not streetable), headers, electronics (stock ecm possible, but not optimum)

 

[HighPSI]

Originally posted by geno
Cal do you change the IC when out on the street picking on people? Some of the guys that are fast on the street around here have roller bearings instead of control arms bushings and run no shock up front.

No, I run a black V-1. Nearly everyone thinks they are seeing a radiator behind the grill. My car would never work without a front shock. Once the front end comes back down it would unload the suspension just about the same time the boost would be coming up.

GNSCOTT: If you want to see a 9 sec car hook on the street come to Florida (we do prep the road first )

Darren: Give me a call whenever you want and we can go over the details.

 

[geno]

The IC was the instant center Sorry I figured thats why you say it pulls the front tires at the track when your setup for the street.. I know some fast mopar guys that drill and drain a old set of shocks they use for street racing Ive thought about making my front end roller bearing. It makes sense to me Myself i would not remove the shock for a street race.For one thing i have 90/10 shocks and as you say it seems like it would unload the tires because of no dampening on compression to hold the front end up