Added ported heads and port matched intake

[meanchicken]

Need advice on settings from my Alkycontrol after my latest round of mods.

I just got my GN back from Lou. He installed ported stock iron heads and a port matched intake, so I'm moving more air faster. My alky chip is on it's way back to TurboTweak for a reburn and I have a loaner chip in there from Lou that gives me more fuel until I get mine back from Erik.

Any recommendations on initial setting, full on setting, and the setting of the control knob?
Right now I have the control set at 6.
The initial and full on settings are where they were out of the box from Alkycontrol.

Thanks!
Tim

 

[turbo nasty]

When you get the chip back from TT if using the SM then tune the fuel for 760-780 at WOT in 3rd.
Not recall 780...look at teh SM in 3rd as it scrolls. If it averages the above numbers then you are good. I never use teh recall for tuning.

Leave it on 6 until you determine more is needed.

Get Eric to burn teh fast update mode in the chip if you havent requested it already.

I prefer less boost and more timing

 

[Boost231]

if you need help tunning let me know. are you getting razors new 6.0 chip? if so get a powerlogger and a lc-1 and tunning will be super easy.

 

[meanchicken]

Get Eric to burn teh fast update mode in the chip if you havent requested it already.

Is the FAST update compatible with the stock ECU?

if you need help tunning let me know. are you getting razors new 6.0 chip? if so get a powerlogger and a lc-1 and tunning will be super easy.

Razor's new chip?
Do you mean Eric?

 

[turbo nasty]

Yes its compatible makes the SM update alot faster..like 5 frames vs. 2 or somethimg like that

 

[meanchicken]

Yes its compatible makes the SM update alot faster..like 5 frames vs. 2 or somethimg like that

Cool!
Thanks for the tip.
I'll be sure to call Eric and have him include that with my re-burn.

 

[turbo nasty]

Not to get in your business but you may want to forgo forcing L/U at WFO inteh chip as well.

It will kill the convertor clutch over time.I know the heads are going to unleash alot more power.

Ive been through more convertors and trannies that I care to say. ALot died due to forcing L/U

Bad thing about this is unlocked at WFO will tell you if your convertor is effiecient at hydraulically coupling.

Good thread here

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/tr...k-up-vs-non-l-u-efficiency-when-unlocked.html

Something to kick around.

 

[Razor]

You will now make more power with less boost. So if you ran 25 before, it will make the same power at 20-21 now. Keep that in mind.

Leave the alky on 6 and see how the car responds. I would of actually tried Erics chip as is and then gave him the feedback before sending it back for a change.Non the less a little more fuel is not a bad thing added to the chip.

You've got the bug to go faster.. its a bad addiction

 

[Boost231]

Is the FAST update compatible with the stock ECU?



Razor's new chip?
Do you mean Eric?

my bad, eric's chip. i had alot on my mind when i typed that. also with his chip you can adjust WOT lock up if you want. its not turned on however if you want to use the feature it there.

 

[meanchicken]

Not to get in your business but you may want to forgo forcing L/U at WFO inteh chip as well.

It will kill the convertor clutch over time.I know the heads are going to unleash alot more power.

Ive been through more convertors and trannies that I care to say. ALot died due to forcing L/U

Bad thing about this is unlocked at WFO will tell you if your convertor is effiecient at hydraulically coupling.

Good thread here

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/tr...k-up-vs-non-l-u-efficiency-when-unlocked.html

Something to kick around.

my bad, eric's chip. i had alot on my mind when i typed that. also with his chip you can adjust WOT lock up if you want. its not turned on however if you want to use the feature it there.

Actually, my lock-up is already burnt, so I just unplugged the connector from the tranny and run without it.

 

[meanchicken]

You will now make more power with less boost. So if you ran 25 before, it will make the same power at 20-21 now. Keep that in mind.

Leave the alky on 6 and see how the car responds. I would of actually tried Erics chip as is and then gave him the feedback before sending it back for a change.Non the less a little more fuel is not a bad thing added to the chip.

You've got the bug to go faster.. its a bad addiction

Yup...I'm still running safely at 20lbs and the car has a ton more than it did before. Freaked me out when I nailed it the first time and the Nitto 555r DR's broke loose as if they were street radials...:biggrin:

I did a few test runs with my old chip first and am having it re-burned per Lou's advice.

I do get a little...what I hope is...false knock that was not there before the heads and intake. It occurs down low at 30-50 mph, so that's why I'm wondering if I should set the Alky initial and full to come on sooner since the spool is a lot faster now.

Up in the 60+ range I don't get any KR at all.

 

[V6POWER]

meanchicken--Do you have any time slips? I am interested since we have similar builds.

 

[meanchicken]

meanchicken--Do you have any time slips? I am interested since we have similar builds.

Not yet.
I was set to go to the track on Oct 31...but then discovered a little problem that needed fixing.....that's how I got refitted with the ported heads and port mached intake.

Before the heads/intake, I'm confident it was a ow 12 second car.
Now...it's definitely 11's capable...just need to go and actually do it.:biggrin:

There is another street legal day coming up in early Dec, so I'm trying to get ready for that.

 

[Razor]

Actually, my lock-up is already burnt, so I just unplugged the connector from the tranny and run without it.

This is bad.. you need to let the ecm know your going into 3rd gear so it drops timing. Unless Eric has made a special patch "just for you"

You can disable the lockup on the little pluger thats goes to the brakepedal. Just unplug it. But thats another story

 

[Razor]

Yup...I'm still running safely at 20lbs and the car has a ton more than it did before. Freaked me out when I nailed it the first time and the Nitto 555r DR's broke loose as if they were street radials...:biggrin:

I did a few test runs with my old chip first and am having it re-burned per Lou's advice.

I do get a little...what I hope is...false knock that was not there before the heads and intake. It occurs down low at 30-50 mph, so that's why I'm wondering if I should set the Alky initial and full to come on sooner since the spool is a lot faster now.

Up in the 60+ range I don't get any KR at all.

Your 1/2 shift typically happens in the 30-40 MPH range.. that can cuase the knock sensor to go off.. no amount of alky will fix that.

Leave the PAC settings alone

 

[meanchicken]

This is bad.. you need to let the ecm know your going into 3rd gear so it drops timing. Unless Eric has made a special patch "just for you"

You can disable the lockup on the little pluger thats goes to the brakepedal. Just unplug it. But thats another story

Hmmm....good point.....I'll check with Eric on that too.

 

[meanchicken]

Your 1/2 shift typically happens in the 30-40 MPH range.. that can cuase the knock sensor to go off.. no amount of alky will fix that.

Leave the PAC settings alone

Got it.

Next question tho....
If that false knock down low at the 1/2 shift suddenly whacks me with something ludicrous like an 8.0 (happened once...usually is 1, 2, 3.0) doesn't that yank 8 degrees of timing out from under me and kill my power?

 

[Razor]

If its false its false. Octane wont fix it. The fix is find the source and then make the decision. On my TTA it would show 40 degree's on the 1/2 shift from the band banging in the tranny. It would hit 2nd really hard at WOT. My fix was get a patch in the chip to ignore knock anything under 45 mph.

You may have a broken tranny mount, broken engine mount, timing chain issue, downpipe banging, exhuast banging, etc etc etc.. Again you need to find the source.

 

[meanchicken]

If its false its false. Octane wont fix it. The fix is find the source and then make the decision. On my TTA it would show 40 degree's on the 1/2 shift from the band banging in the tranny. It would hit 2nd really hard at WOT. My fix was get a patch in the chip to ignore knock anything under 45 mph.

You may have a broken tranny mount, broken engine mount, timing chain issue, downpipe banging, exhuast banging, etc etc etc.. Again you need to find the source.

Fully understood....I know more fuel or alky won't do anything for false knock.:biggrin:

I guess what I'm worried about, is....I did not have KR down low (or at all) before the heads went on...
If my Alky is not coming on soon enough or fast enough for the faster spool and additional air, maybe this is not entirely false knock situation. In my old stock motor, I was getting audible knock (spark rattle) in all gears that would set off the Knock Detector. That's why I finally replaced the motor. The bearings were shot.

Motor and trans mounts are new and I'm running a TQ strap.
I'll look around for other points of interference that could be creating the right frequency to set off the knock detector. I have heard some rattles in the exhaust from under the car, so maybe that's it....

 

[Razor]

Your spool is going to be the same as your turbo and converter havent changed.

Understand the motor came apart.. lots of things get moved. I have seen the wiring harness on the back of the engine bang on top of the knock sensor.

MAF pipe hitting the alt bracket is another one. IC pipes moved and now banging on stuff.. list goes on and on.

If you really want to see if the alky keeps up... get a wideband sensor and watch to see if the motor leans out when you get into it. If it does, then you need more alky/fuel. But dont mess with those things without data.

Welcome to the modded Buick club.. its a rite of passage