adjusting engine valves

It seems they all squash all together be the time I walk over to the car from the bench where I had them straighten out.
 
All the new parts are here and have questions on procedure although I have changed this type of springs before.

Still looking for a spring compressor tool for the right side.

I was planning to hold the valves with the air compressor but a friend said the way he like to do it is to bring the piston up to the top and let the valves drop down (1/4 inch or so).

Which way is best
 
Use the air from the compressor. That is the accepted way to do it. Forget letting the valves touch the pistons.
 
I measured the for push rods. Turns out they were not to far off. Need them to be 0.045 shorter.

Called TA and got 8.200 inch long

Will that alone make a difference ? Still changing the springs.
 
Once you get the right length push rod in start your adjustments. #5 to me is a red flag. I question anything that happens to my car, and my gut immediately says a bad lifter, whether it is or not. But if your adjustments don't all line up across the board with the height of your adjusting screw on each rocker arm, your lifter in that cylinder is compromised.
 
Once you get the right length push rod in start your adjustments. #5 to me is a red flag. I question anything that happens to my car, and my gut immediately says a bad lifter, whether it is or not. But if your adjustments don't all line up across the board with the height of your adjusting screw on each rocker arm, your lifter in that cylinder is compromised.

If the valve springs were alright, I would feel you are correct. The springs are going away and #5 is one of the worst ones.

I wonder if the lifter bouncing off the cam caused the jam nut to loosen?

If it happens again, I will have to look at the lifter.
 
Got all springs changed (PITA with the engine in the car) but doable. Have it mostly back together now.

Turns out the new method of putting the used roller rockers back on helped. Maybe don't need to with new rollers, but it sure did help with these.

Thanks to all
 

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Just started it to put a few heat cycles on it I saw that my AFRs went from rock steady 13.0 to 11.5 dancing around and what I can't figure out yet is by changing the pushrods and springs only, the main belt (and only) became to short. It was really causing the adjuster to bottom out. Installed a shorter belt to solve that.

Maybe because it is running better :unsure:

Rained all day today so hopefully will take it for a drive tomorrow if the weather allows.

Thanks all
 
Just started it to put a few heat cycles on it I saw that my AFRs went from rock steady 13.0 to 11.5 dancing around and what I can't figure out yet is by changing the pushrods and springs only, the main belt (and only) became to short. It was really causing the adjuster to bottom out. Installed a shorter belt to solve that.

Maybe because it is running better :unsure:

Rained all day today so hopefully will take it for a drive tomorrow if the weather allows.

Thanks all
Probably because your sensor is covered in oil and it’s burning off? Just a thought?? What can’t you figure out about push rods ? First u need to order a pushrod checker. Then you can figure out what size pushrod u need . Let me know what size you need as you can see I have a wide assortment of them . Also that’s what a pushrod length checker looks like .
35B0D729-A91E-4BE3-973F-CCE8029441EC.jpeg
 
Man you have a bunch of push rods.

I did buy a checker from Jegs to use once. I live close enough to Jegs that whatever I buy from there, it is on my door steep in 24 hours most of the time.

I ended up ordering 8.200 inch long rods

Now TA is another story though.

I had to adjust the valves twice as the cam and lifters did not like 3/4 turn past zero lash. Second time set them at 1/4 turn and it liked that much better.
 
I would re-check the pushrod lengths and order new pushrods. Order new adjusters for the rockers at the same time.


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