Aluminum Radiators

[Bweavy]

Same exact radiator that Gbody sells for $450 plus 20 shipping you can get from GN1 for $385.00 or maybe less if you work Archie up , he is a good guy and A+ seller to deal with, now lets let the person buying make their choice as to how they want to spend their hard earned money on a new radiator we done what we could pointing out the obvious. just my 02's.

That is because it is a copy of ours. Mark's Radiator he is selling is ours as well.
Fred's problem wasn't a couple degress, Archie's actually ran hotter then a factory unit.I'll let Fred quote his own #'s.
Archie makes a living copying people's products.Don't believe me ask his Cousin Sod from Hye tech performance.
Hye-Tech
13912 Valley Blvd. Suite A
La Punte, CA 91746
#1-626-855-1154
We spent 6 months on our radiator being built & fit.He knocked it off.
His down pipe is a Hye-tech knock off.
Mas air pipe Hye tech Knock off.
Etc.. etc.. etc..
Archie walks around after having Sod teach him all this claiming he built this & that.
I'm not going to sit here & slam Archie. Don't take it from me call Sod.
I have a GN-1 performance IC here I got from Sod blown apart at 18PSI.
You get what you pay for in this world.
Now lets let the person buying make their choice as to how they want to spend their hard earned money on a new radiator we done what we could pointing out the obvious. just my 02's.

 

[VadersV6]

Go to autozone and buy a $109 dollar F-Body radiator. Buy an external oil cooler kit from summit for cheap, or just bypass it like I did. The F-Body has hookups for the tranny lines but not an oil cooler. I went with an external tranny cooler on mine, and my tranny would start acting funny after driving for 30 minutes. After doing this, the problem went away. In the end you'll spend under 200 bucks and have a motor that runs at 160 degrees and in stop and go L.A. traffic, maybe 168-170...unless you have a front mount IC that blocks airflow. I had an original GN radiator in there before. Theres a 6 degree grade hill I climb up on the way to work...it goes uphill pretty steep for about 3 miles. Takes 2-3psi the whole way up. I used to start at about 170 at the bottom, and 220+ by the time I reached the top. And the fan works fine. 1 Autozone radiator later, I'll start at 160 and reach 168 at the top. I used to freak out in traffic cause my motor would always run super hot. That problem was gone after that radiator...and keep in mind that I have the stock fan. Key there is to just make sure that your fan is spinning as fast as its supposed to. Clean all the pins and sockets out at the relays or you'll have a serious voltage drop and the fan wont spin as fast as you may think it is. Theres just no reason at all to run an expensive radiator, unless having money in your pocket causes hives or something. Copper is over twice as thermally conductive as aluminum, but the problem lies in solder joints. Solder is a very poor thermal conductor, so every joint of every tube and fin is not transferring heat worth a damn. The thermally conductive epoxies they use with aluminum radiators arent as conductive as the aluminum itself, but it does a hell of alot better job than solder.

 

[gnxtc2]

Got mine from Billy Anderson. No complaints at all. Very good product.

It has no oil coolers in it. I run an external cooler anyway.

Why would you want an internal cooler in the rad. IF you have a failure in the motor or trans, the internal cooler can't be cleaned out and is trashed.

I don't trust the rads with the plastic end tanks. If you pop a HG and pressurize the cooling system, you have good chance of blowing up the rad. Once this happens, the coolant gets under the rear tires and could cause you to wreck.

Welcome to Anderson Performance Automotive!

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[Bweavy]

Our coolers can be cleaned. They are not like the old factory units.

 

[EightSecV6]

Got mine from Billy Anderson. No complaints at all. Very good product.

It has no oil coolers in it. I run an external cooler anyway.

Why would you want an internal cooler in the rad. IF you have a failure in the motor or trans, the internal cooler can't be cleaned out and is trashed.

I don't trust the rads with the plastic end tanks. If you pop a HG and pressurize the cooling system, you have good chance of blowing up the rad. Once this happens, the coolant gets under the rear tires and could cause you to wreck.

Welcome to Anderson Performance Automotive!

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Thanks Billy! I dont have any practical experience with anyone else's aluminum radiators except for ours so I surely cant make any comments! The F-Body radiator fits nice and it is light BUT it will blow the end tanks off if you have a major coolant pressure excursion and that will make for a dangerous ride! I designed our radiators to be the largest most efficient unit that will fit in a a GN. They nearly touch the frame rails on either side, and the width just barely fits under the hold down plate.We have sold over 100 units and even on the hottest days with the A/C running, engine temps are where the thermostat puts them! We dont use coolers in our radiators for several reasons:
1. I personally dont think they can be properly cleaned if there is an engine or trans failure.
2. I dont like the idea of "heating" the coolant with engine oil or trans oil which can easily exceed 250 degf or vice versa
3. More area in the end tanks can be filled with coolant to keep engine temps in check instead of space taken by coolers.
4. You will generally see a 3-5 psi drop in oil pressure when using the factory type filter adapter and factory hoses, an aftermarket "full flow" engine oil cooler is much more efficient with virtually ZERO pressure differential.

Plenty of options out there guys, choose the radiator that best suits your combo!

 

[SGRIM]

The F-Body radiator fits nice and it is light BUT it will blow the end tanks off if you have a major coolant pressure excursion and that will make for a dangerous ride!

Thank you for backing that up....

 

[Fuelie600]

I designed our radiators to be the largest most efficient unit that will fit in a a GN. They nearly touch the frame rails on either side, and the width just barely fits under the hold down plate.We have sold over 100 units and even on the hottest days with the A/C running, engine temps are where the thermostat puts them!

Billy, PM me a price when you get a chance. Thanks, Brian

 

[baknblk]

Mikester I would go with something like this Bill Anderson sells. It sounds very similar to the one I bought from Bruce at aggressive and I could not be happier with this setup . I also have the dual fan set up and a front mount and never have any over heating, not even at the Woodward Dream Cruise. I did however experience some issues with the remote filter/turbo save kit. The first one leaked oil through the casting and the second one I had to re-tap the threads, and would also recommend changing the remote lines to braided if you drive on the street. I can not imagine a better setup.

 

[BASS]

Vader, good point about the conductivity of copper vs aluminum and the solder joints. So, why cant they make a copper radiator that has solder joints with better conductive properties? Then, that would be waaay better than an aluminum rad

 

[HYEBOOST]

to all the sh*t talkers, heres the real deal!!!

Well to add to all this madness of whose products is whose, and which is better, I myself have a few things to say. First of all, being that I am a long time customer and now friend of Archie from GN1, I personally witnessed Archie Bogosian fabricate his external wastegate dp over 2 ½ years ago with an acquaintance of his by the name of Steve in South El Monte. It’s only just now over the past 5 months that we are starting to see Hye-techs dp out on the market. So you be the judge, who is copying who here. If he had this merchandise before GN1 where has it been hiding all this time? I think that it is safe to assume Hye-tech had no product and when he saw how well Gn1‘s product was selling he decided to go for a ride on Archie‘s coat tail claiming that he originally designed this product and others that GN1 produces and manufactures.

As for the idiot who is trying to compare Gbody and GN1 radiators he is one ignorant person for the fact that the 2 radiators are exactly the same, quality and all, so how do you get 2 different temps? I know this as a fact because a buddy of mine purchased Gbodys while I purchased GN1’s, there is no difference in quality, just price, so if you like to get bent over then go with the others.

As for Hye -tech, on several occasions I even rode along with Archie to deliver intercoolers, mass airflow pipes, and waste gates to Hye-tech’s shop due to the simple fact that he had no inventory. Gbody parts should get his facts straight before he goes on ridiculing GN1 performance, this is very unprofessional conduct. You don’t just go slandering a person and his business because someone (Hye-tech) gave false information. Get the facts straight!

All I have to say is to all you local GN guys out here, feel free to visit Hye tech, then take a trip to GN1performance and the difference you see is that GN1 has inventory stacked to the roof where as Hye -tech is on its last leg.

The boys from Lynwood, Long Beach and Bell keep on rocking GN1 performance
and keep up the good work along with the competitive prices.

 

[Abomb]

Thank you for backing that up....

Who has seen this actually happen to a F-body rad???.......I am having a hard time believing this, even if you blew a head gasket I don't know if your cooling system would see the full psi and volume of air required to blow the tanks off..........

 

[EightSecV6]

Who has seen this actually happen to a F-body rad???.......I am having a hard time believing this, even if you blew a head gasket I don't know if your cooling system would see the full psi and volume of air required to blow the tanks off..........

I have seen it happen twice, once was on a Buick at the race track on a high 10 second run, luckily it happened at the end of the track and the driver lifted immediately. We also had a nitrous Trans Am blow the tank off one right on the shop floor while the car was being dyno'd.It doesnt break the tank, it stresses the aluminum core where the tank is crimped on and pushes it off.It really doesnt take that much.

 

[EightSecV6]

Billy, PM me a price when you get a chance. Thanks, Brian

Brian,
They are 459.99
Thanks

 

[Boost231]

As for the idiot who is trying to compare Gbody and GN1 radiators he is one ignorant person for the fact that the 2 radiators are exactly the same, quality and all, so how do you get 2 different temps? I know this as a fact because a buddy of mine purchased Gbodys while I purchased GN1’s, there is no difference in quality, just price, so if you like to get bent over then go with the others.

So your saying the 2 radiators are the same. Humm so is GN1 buying from Gbody or is Gbody buying from GN1? or is GN1 and Gbody buying from the same vendor? :wink: if thats not the case then there not the same.

 

[UNDER-PRESSURE]

Vader, good point about the conductivity of copper vs aluminum and the solder joints. So, why cant they make a copper radiator that has solder joints with better conductive properties? Then, that would be waaay better than an aluminum rad

There was mention of a radiator company in the following link using a PTS radiator for a baseline test. I wonder how it compared to a conventional copper radiator?

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/parts-sale/224371-pts-extreme-new-aluminum-radiator.html

 

[Boost231]

i forgot about that post

 

[tbirdv6]

There was mention of a radiator company in the following link using a PTS radiator for a baseline test. I wonder how it compared to a conventional copper radiator?

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/parts-sale/224371-pts-extreme-new-aluminum-radiator.html

I made a mistake-in the pic is a GN1 Performance Radiator I purchased .

Actually I was going to stay quiet,but since my name surfaced & NOW claim its a false report,then let me share the real deal:

Before w/brass copper radiator I was hitting 188-190 w AC (dual fans,160,Distilled water w/RMI-25,RJC FMIC)

Purchased GN1 Performance Radiator, (nothing changed other than used their supplied radiator cap)

Temps went to 206 w/AC,even after burping air out of system
Within 1-2 hr timeframe & approx same temps swapped copper/brass radiator back in & temps went to 185-188

Called Archie (called before & told him the 1st results,& said I would do a quick baseline of exchange) & asked if I can return radiator due to lack of significant change of degrees (i was being nice & conservative)

He said no problem,sent back in same condition as received in same box & packing material,showed he received radiator back but claimed it got damaged beyond repair & I'm in the process of UPS claim.
FRED

PS-This is my experience,"No Bull"
Not to sound prudish but I work for the largest Radiator Manf. called Modine (aka Proliance)

 

[UNDER-PRESSURE]

I made a mistake-in the pic is a GN1 Performance Radiator I purchased .

Actually I was going to stay quiet,but since my name surfaced & NOW claim its a false report,then let me share the real deal:

Before w/brass copper radiator I was hitting 188-190 w AC (dual fans,160,Distilled water w/RMI-25,RJC FMIC)

Purchased GN1 Performance Radiator, (nothing changed other than used their supplied radiator cap)

Temps went to 206 w/AC,even after burping air out of system
Within 1-2 hr timeframe & approx same temps swapped copper/brass radiator back in & temps went to 185-188

Called Archie (called before & told him the 1st results,& said I would do a quick baseline of exchange) & asked if I can return radiator due to lack of significant change of degrees (i was being nice & conservative)

He said no problem,sent back in same condition as received in same box & packing material,showed he received radiator back but claimed it got damaged beyond repair & I'm in the process of UPS claim.
FRED

PS-This is my experience,"No Bull"
Not to sound prudish but I work for the largest Radiator Manf. called Modine (aka Proliance)

Thank you for the info Fred. Are you using a stock replacement cooper radiator now or is it a thicker core unit?

 

[Boost231]

hum thanks for the info. wonder how it got damaged?

 

[tbirdv6]

Thank you for the info Fred. Are you using a stock replacement cooper radiator now or is it a thicker core unit?

its a different core,but its brass/copper