Best Launch Technique with Transbrake

[rssooner]

I must admit...i am not good at launching with a transbrake with a pro tree.

I understand that practice makes perfect but can someone suggest a good technique I can practice? I have a TE-60 with a 3200 stall. I never seem to be able to build enough boost fast enough to leave with a decent reaction time and a good 60ft.

Thanks in advance for the help.

RS

 

[TurboDave]

I must admit...i am not good at launching with a transbrake with a pro tree.

I understand that practice makes perfect but can someone suggest a good technique I can practice? I have a TE-60 with a 3200 stall. I never seem to be able to build enough boost fast enough to leave with a decent reaction time and a good 60ft.

Thanks in advance for the help.

RS

If you're using one those crappy manual t-brakes, you'll likely never have a "good" R/T, especially on a pro tree. Get in first and early and start building at least some boost when the other car is pre-staging. Traction=60'. The first thing you have to do at any track is find out how much boost the track and your tires are going to hold at launch before spinning too hard off the line.
I tried using one of those manual brakes for a couple seasons, and finally threw the piece of crap away. It's great for time trials, etc. but absolutely sucks if you're bracket racing, etc.

If you've got an electronic brake, then get in first and early, and be ready. Practice, practice, practice

 

[KevinB]

Prestage as deep as you can, power brake it to get it over the hump (where the boost really starts to build fast). Hit the transbrake button, release the brakes, and then the car should roll into the staging lights. As soon as you see the amber, release the brake. And like TurboDave said, "practice, practice, practice."

 

[nordy racer]

"practice, practice, practice."

yep.. i had to practice alot for the PINKS event.. (i freaked the guy out next to me, thats why he jumped LOL)..

you can see the car jumping on and off the trans brake on this video.. i was up on boost (around 20psi launch) and trying to walk the car into the beams..

mvi_0104.avi videos from friends & fun videos on webshots

 

[rssooner]

If you're using one those crappy manual t-brakes, you'll likely never have a "good" R/T, especially on a pro tree. Get in first and early and start building at least some boost when the other car is pre-staging. Traction=60'. The first thing you have to do at any track is find out how much boost the track and your tires are going to hold at launch before spinning too hard off the line.
I tried using one of those manual brakes for a couple seasons, and finally threw the piece of crap away. It's great for time trials, etc. but absolutely sucks if you're bracket racing, etc.

If you've got an electronic brake, then get in first and early, and be ready. Practice, practice, practice

Yep...i do have one of those crappy manual t-brakes that you control through the shifter. It's a lot of fun when you are racing yourself but by the time i do my burnout and prestage my opponent has already prestaged and I usually last to stage causing no time to build boost and by green he's 3-4 car lengths ahead.

 

[rssooner]

Prestage as deep as you can, power brake it to get it over the hump (where the boost really starts to build fast). Hit the transbrake button, release the brakes, and then the car should roll into the staging lights. As soon as you see the amber, release the brake. And like TurboDave said, "practice, practice, practice."

Kevin,

Since my t-brake is the manual type that is controlled from the shifter, you are saying while prestaged, power braking and build boost, put the shifter into low engaging the t-brake, release foot brake and car should move forward enough to stage and then release and hold on?

If that is correct, the only problem I see happening is if the car doesn't move forward enough to stage...then what?

Thanks for the reply and advise. I really appreciate it.

RS

 

[scot w.]

Yep...i do have one of those crappy manual t-brakes that you control through the shifter. It's a lot of fun when you are racing yourself but by the time i do my burnout and prestage my opponent has already prestaged and I usually last to stage causing no time to build boost and by green he's 3-4 car lengths ahead.

I also have the CRAPPY!! manual T-brake but it seems to work okay for me! THE NUMBER ONE THING TO REMEMBER --- "THIS IS LIKE SHOOTING POOL, NEVER FEEL RUSHED TO TAKE YOUR SHOT"!! The minute you feel rushed and don't give your self time and calm down you will most likely loose every time! I know, cause it's happened to me! Being rushed was the biggest problem I had to get used to. If the other guy gets in there quick, does his burn out and get's to the line quick, TAKE YOUR TIME AND CALM DOWN AND JUST DO WHAT YOU NEED TO DO! THE Hell with him! if he wants to race he's just going to have to wait.. Just because the other guy rushes up to the line DOESN'T MEAN YOU HAVE TO!!

See if that helps. Take deep breaths, Concentration is key!

Scot W.

 

[scot w.]

If you're using one those crappy manual t-brakes, you'll likely never have a "good" R/T, especially on a pro tree. Get in first and early and start building at least some boost when the other car is pre-staging. Traction=60'. The first thing you have to do at any track is find out how much boost the track and your tires are going to hold at launch before spinning too hard off the line.
I tried using one of those manual brakes for a couple seasons, and finally threw the piece of crap away. It's great for time trials, etc. but absolutely sucks if you're bracket racing, etc.

If you've got an electronic brake, then get in first and early, and be ready. Practice, practice, practice

Dave you must not be able to rub your belly and pat the top off your head at the same time !!! :biggrin: lol...

 

[KevinB]

Kevin,

Since my t-brake is the manual type that is controlled from the shifter, you are saying while prestaged, power braking and build boost, put the shifter into low engaging the t-brake, release foot brake and car should move forward enough to stage and then release and hold on?

If that is correct, the only problem I see happening is if the car doesn't move forward enough to stage...then what?

Thanks for the reply and advise. I really appreciate it.

RS

My technique was for a tradition brake. Never had a manual deal.

 

[BOSS 6]

best launch transbrake

I was speaking to Brian Hofer about this same thing, lets get this striaght 1. Do burn out in drive make the car shift into second or third. 2. Roll up to line place the trans into manual low watch stage light build boost bump shifter to Drive and make launch when crossing the line bump one more time to overdrive

 

[rssooner]

I was speaking to Brian Hofer about this same thing, lets get this striaght 1. Do burn out in drive make the car shift into second or third. 2. Roll up to line place the trans into manual low watch stage light build boost bump shifter to Drive and make launch when crossing the line bump one more time to overdrive

Ok..I am confused about what you are saying.

What happens to me is...1. do burnout 2. prestage 3. stage 4. slam transbrake down into low gear and try to build boost 5. pro tree drops VERY FAST and I am left at the line trying to build boost and my opponent is 60-100 feet in front.

If i bump shifter to drive before green light then i red light.

Thanks for the advise.

 

[Alky V6]

You shouldn't even consider racing with a Pro light unless your car is capable of at least low 1.4 60 foots.

Regardless, the answer for a quick launch without embarrassingly being caught at the line trying to boost your shtuff is... nitrous!!! Step up. Everyones doing it now.

It may even allow you to take off from just above idle off the foot brake. Making a transbrake unnecessary.

 

[bison]

Deep staging with a flat footed t-brake launch is the way to achieve the best reaction times. You really need an electronic boost controller with a time delay to avoid overboost on the line.

 

[BLACK6PACK]

Am I missing something or is this TE60 something different. Shouldn't a 60 spin up in no time with a 3200 converter. I've ran a TE60 with a stock D5 and it wasn't much worse than a 44/49

 

[johnplogii]

I run a manual transbrake. My technique is just as mentioned above. I would PREFER the other guy stage first so I am up on boost as little as possible. I pre stage then creep up a couple more inches(this takes a little practice to get it just right). Then I foot brake it to about 2 psi to get some chassis preload. I then engage the transbrake. For a pro tree I go ahead & increase to my desired launch boost then let off the foot brake, roll into the 2nd beam & release the transbrake as soon as I see yellow. I only hit a pro tree a couple times a year but it usually nets .075-.150 reaction times. If the car doesn't roll into the second beam just let off the gas, disengage the transbrake, footbrake a LITTLE more & do it again. This is the part that takes practice in how far to pre stage & how hard to foot brake it.

 

[rssooner]

I run a manual transbrake. My technique is just as mentioned above. I would PREFER the other guy stage first so I am up on boost as little as possible. I pre stage then creep up a couple more inches(this takes a little practice to get it just right). Then I foot brake it to about 2 psi to get some chassis preload. I then engage the transbrake. For a pro tree I go ahead & increase to my desired launch boost then let off the foot brake, roll into the 2nd beam & release the transbrake as soon as I see yellow. I only hit a pro tree a couple times a year but it usually nets .075-.150 reaction times. If the car doesn't roll into the second beam just let off the gas, disengage the transbrake, footbrake a LITTLE more & do it again. This is the part that takes practice in how far to pre stage & how hard to foot brake it.

Johnplogii,
I really appreciate your input. That makes sense but it does seem like it would take some/a lot of practice to get this down. I only race at one event that has a pro tree setup but it has always gotten the best of me. Just to clarify...you prestage, build boost with footbrake then while boost level is achieved, engage t-brake then let off footbrake and that should "bump" you forward to completely stage then once you see yellow..... go?

RS

 

[johnplogii]

Prestage, then go a couple more inches, foot brake to a couple psi. engage transbrake. Now go to desired boost(with the transbrake engaged) & let off footbrake when ready. The car should roll from the chassis preload just enough to light the 2nd beam. The part that takes practice is how far to go after you prestage & how much to footbrake before engaging the transbrake. I use the same technique on a standard tree except I only go to 5 psi or so before fully staging, creep in & go to desired boost while the tree starts counting down. I go 1 to 2 tenths after the 3rd yellow.

 

[rssooner]

Prestage, then go a couple more inches, foot brake to a couple psi. engage transbrake. Now go to desired boost(with the transbrake engaged) & let off footbrake when ready. The car should roll from the chassis preload just enough to light the 2nd beam. The part that takes practice is how far to go after you prestage & how much to footbrake before engaging the transbrake. I use the same technique on a standard tree except I only go to 5 psi or so before fully staging, creep in & go to desired boost while the tree starts counting down. I go 1 to 2 tenths after the 3rd yellow.

Johnplogii,

Thanks for the clarification. I will definitely try and see if I can pull this off. Wish me luck. Thanks again for the help.

RS