Best Shortblock??

[latebrkr]

Ok Got the motor freed up and no good got a rod banging. So now time for a shortblock.
1. Will a stock block hold enough power for low 11's high 10's
2. Does it need a girddle?
3.What is the best rotating assembly?
4.Can I put a stroker in it with very little machining to the block?
5. I'm sure I need to upgrade to all ARP stuff?
6. Stock oil pan or???

Not gonna build this week but want to be on the prowl if I run across the stuff somewhere.

 

[imjoesnuffy]

Ok Got the motor freed up and no good got a rod banging. So now time for a shortblock.
1. Will a stock block hold enough power for low 11's high 10's
2. Does it need a girddle?
3.What is the best rotating assembly?
4.Can I put a stroker in it with very little machining to the block?
5. I'm sure I need to upgrade to all ARP stuff?
6. Stock oil pan or???

Not gonna build this week but want to be on the prowl if I run across the stuff somewhere.

1. Yes
2. Depends on how fast you want to go.
3. Depends on your goals, best can be expensive.
4. Depends on what very little machining means to you.
5. Again it depends on how fast you want to go.
6. Stock pan is fine.

 

[latebrkr]

1. Great
2.High 10' low 11's I will assume that it is a given?
3. Like to spend no more than 1200 to 1500 on assembly
4.Cylinder walls?
5.I will do this just beacuse that is what is in my Mustang and they work!
6.Great.
7. I would assume they make all roller stuff rockers,liftres and cams?

I want the most reliable power plant I can afford. My Mustang had 900 passes on it before we did anything to it and we spun it 7800 rpm and it ran 10.30's all day long on pump gas NA. I know being a hot air car just wondering if I need coated pistons? and shurley Hellfire rings. Just looking at options before I buy. Thanks in advance.

 

[Boost231]

where you located?

 

[charlief1]

1. Great
2.High 10' low 11's I will assume that it is a given?

Not unless you have a good turner and know what you're doing.

3. Like to spend no more than 1200 to 1500 on assembly

Good luck on that. These engines aren't cheap at all. If you're gonna bore the block out then good pistons will cost at least $300 and really good ones will be over $500.

4.Cylinder walls?

That's only part of the story. A stroker will cost at least $5K for the short block.

5.I will do this just because that is what is in my Mustang and they work!

ARP stuff is a good idea but it will raise the price of the build quite a bit. Cheap insurance though.

6.Great.

You might want to add a baffle at the front of the pan as well but most don't.

7. I would assume they make all roller stuff rockers,lifters and cams?

Yes they do and they aren't at all cheap like Chevy or ferd parts. A set of rockers will cost you $500 if you're lucky and if you find them used then you might find some in the for sale section but you'll still pay for them.

I want the most reliable power plant I can afford. My Mustang had 900 passes on it before we did anything to it and we spun it 7800 rpm and it ran 10.30's all day long on pump gas NA. I know being a hot air car just wondering if I need coated pistons? and surely Hellfire rings. Just looking at options before I buy. Thanks in advance.

Replies in red. Do a lot of reading on here first and then make a plan. There's nothing in the manual that says anything about owning one and being rich, but it will help.:biggrin: Reliable isn't an issue if you are willing to take your time and understand that the upgrades will break things so you fix one thing and the another until you get frustrated and sell the car. This happens a lot so remember you bought a money pit and you'll end up divorced or get rid of the car unless your woman likes it.

 

[latebrkr]

where you located?

KC Missouri. Trust me I have a Money pit in my garage now so this is really no different. like was saying It won't happen overnight but it will get the good stuff. And my wife is used to it afer the Mustang she hates that car but loves this one so that should help. I know this isn't a Mustang site but here is my current money pit. lol 40k plus .

 

[charlief1]

To be honest with you there's a Weber stroker in the for sale section right now as well and another well built engine. I'd see about getting them and save yourself some headaches. Both are built by vendors on here and both make serious power as well as reliable engines. They aren't cheap but it would be the cheapest in the long run.

 

[latebrkr]

Ok I will look into it I appreciate all the help. Don't compare Buick to the Ford stuff my rockers were 1700.00 dollars so 500.00 looks nice.

 

[latebrkr]

Ok don't have the money for them right now but looks like a great buy. I have two xtra blocks but what is this 109 block? Should I look for one of these for a base? How can I tell what I have? serial #s or ??

 

[charlief1]

A 109 block is the late 85 and up block that had revised casting. Where the lifters are is not open like other Buicks.

 

[usetaboost]

First you need to decide on how much you want to spend. Is your car still a hot air?

 

[latebrkr]

Yes it is still HA and want to keep it that way. I really don't want to spend more than 4-5K on a short block. So how can I tell what the 2 blocks I have on my garage floor are?

 

[Squid4life]

Look at the serial number. The "better" blocks are ending in 109. Here is a must have website if you are getting into Turbo Buicks:
Block Photo Guide

PS, nice looking Stang.

 

[usetaboost]

If you are going to spend up to 5k just for a short block why put it in a hot air car?

 

[latebrkr]

Just want to keep it as origional as possiable on the outside of the motor. Tell me do I need not spend that much??

 

[latebrkr]

Look at the serial number. The "better" blocks are ending in 109. Here is a must have website if you are getting into Turbo Buicks:
Block Photo Guide

PS, nice looking Stang.

Thanks on the comment, Guess im out of luck one block is 25514290 and the other is 1261787 so looks like I need to look for a different block???

 

[Squid4life]

I know a lot of guys have gone fast with those blocks, but it'd be safer with a 109 as they are stronger. A lot of guys with the 109's have gone fast with stock main caps, bolts, etc. To be safe, you might consider ARP main studs and head studs, and maybe even center two billet caps. This is insurance of course, not 100% necessary. Most of the times these engines will live, and live longer for some than others. That is all based on patience and tuning it seems. The 109 would be a good choice, and if you can find a NA 109 it hasn't been beaten on too much compared to a turbo block. That would be a good start. You can go from mild to wild on these with the HA blocks, 109 blocks, 4.1 blocks, etc and go stock bolts and mains, to studs, to studs and billet caps, to a girdle, etc, etc. It all depends on how fast you want to go, how deep your pockets are, what your plans are for the car, and how much of the work you can do yourself.

 

[latebrkr]

Great info thanks, now off to look for a block.

 

[Jerryl]

....... Guess im out of luck one block is 25514290 and the other is 1261787 so looks like I need to look for a different block???

I know a lot of guys have gone fast with those blocks, but it'd be safer with a 109 as they are stronger. .....

Great info thanks, now off to look for a block.

The 290 block is fine and has been deep in the 10’s, many times.
I am going to take some flack on this, but the 109 block has never been confirmed to be stronger, for the power levels we are running.

 

[usetaboost]

Have you seen how cheaper it is to rebuild a 85 and older block? It's a no brainer.