You can type here any text you want

big cam in a 109 with stock lifter bores - cause oil hemmorage?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
+

I would eliminate cam bearings or cracked engine as an issue because of your high psi at start up that slowly drops down after whatever minutes or as oil viscosity gets thin. I have a stupid questions for you - have you tried another psi gauge and thicker -thiner oil .?
 
I would eliminate cam bearings or cracked engine as an issue because of your high psi at start up that slowly drops down after whatever minutes or as oil viscosity gets thin. I have a stupid questions for you - have you tried another psi gauge and thicker -thiner oil .?

No problem... I'm all ears...

I've tried several grades of oil.... the thickest was straight 30W I think. I even bought 5 quarts of straight 50W Valvoline VR1 racing oil to try... but talked myself out of it because I shouldn't have to put straight 50W in a fresh motor to get oil pressure...if it isn't right... I want it fixed.

The gauge is the same gauge.... it is a little 100 psi liquid filled fuel pressure gauge. It is consistant... 85+ psi at cold prime with a drill..... and after everything gets hot.... and I take the car around the block.....it shows 0... and I can hear the valves rattling... seeming to confirm that the oil pressure is so low.....even when it is idling (before a short drive)... but after it is good a warmed up.... and the pressure is say 15 psi idling.... just a little gas... and the pressure jumps to 50+ psi. I have never tried to give it gas when the oil pressure shows 0 because it usually freaks me out... and I rush to go shut the car off.....
 
sounds like a clearance issue, but the oil pressure regulator is an intriguing idea.

I need to re-read all this stuff, but what is different on this engine now since that last time it was 'ok'.

Bob
(stuck at home the week of BG)
 
sounds like a clearance issue, but the oil pressure regulator is an intriguing idea.

I need to re-read all this stuff, but what is different on this engine now since that last time it was 'ok'.

Bob
(stuck at home the week of BG)

I'm going to give the rundown since the beginning (sorry it is so long).... so it will all be in one post....this is all from memory and dates back nearly 4 years ago at this point..... but I think I have the order of events pretty close.


My GN originally went down at 159k miles easing home from work one day in the rain.... it jumped time.... shame on me for not changing the original timing chain and gears out before that. Tried to put a 204/214 flat tappet cam in the car along with a new chain..... car ran about 100 miles before it smoked the stock turbo bearings.....and spun 2 rod bearings and a main bearing. Apparently I had little or no oil pressure as the GN came with no oil pressure gauge.... and the connector on the sensor that sets off the idiot light was melted messed up... so it wasn't even connected...

That numbers matching motor is fixable.... with a crank, 2 rods, a line bore... etc. I decided to moth ball that motor and "play" with another motor so I didn't mess the original one up.

After a few days searching in the local junkyards, I found a SG1 109 complete engine that had the rolled fillet turbo crank in it.... picked it up for $50 :) I disassembled it completely.....had it vatted, shot blasted, bored .030, decked, steel caps installed, line bored, new cam bearings installed... etc. My Buick buddy then built the engine using my original known good timing cover off my '87 GN that was built up using a booster plate and a high volume gear kit.....218/218 hyd roller cam....poor-boy hyd roller lifter conversion....

From that point I installed the newly rebuilt SG1 engine in the car the first time.

1.) On the first crankup.... I had the cam sensor off some so it didn't crank right away..... and (looking back) one time it was spinning over funny... kinda like I had the initial timing too high on an old school motor.... it acted like it locked up during cranking... then broke free instantly. I reset the cam sensor.. with a homemade cam tool.....then it fired up like it should. Initially sounded fine... oil pressure was great..... but 20 min into it idling... oil pressure was down to like 15 psi idling. Drove the car about 20 miles easing around.... got back to the house... 0 oil pressure idling.

Pulled engine out. I wanted to check rods and main clearances myself..... plastigauged my mains and had some close to .003..... I thought this had to be it....(my mistake...should have pulled it all the way down) so I bought some .001 under bearings and had them dry film coated..... assembled it.... checked all clearances.... not one was over .002 on the rods or mains.... I thought I had this licked.... so I installed it in the car again.

2.) Cranked right up.... good oil pressure..... but the longer it sat idling.... the lower the pressure got. Made my 20 mile loop.... came back.... popped hood.... 0 psi idling..... I was :mad: :mad:..... I never should have re-assembled that motor without completely disassembling it..... I had to have missed something..... so out it came again.

This time I hooked up the priming tool after I got the engine on the stand and with the intake off....I could see oil blowing out around one of the cam bearings down through the little holes in the lifter valley. Upon disassembly..... the cam wouldn't come out.... turned out the #2 cam bearing had spun.... gluing itself to the #2 cam journal. I had to get the # 1 bearing out... then the #2 bearing would come through the front block journal. In hindsight.... I think this bearing spun before the motor fired up the very first time. (see above when motor briefly locked up while trying to crank it the first time) After talking with Lee Thompson.... he said the front and rear cam bearing was a little larger OD but the same ID as the other bearings.... and that I could put a #1 bearing in the #2 hole in the block if I bored the hole out to fit..... which is what I did..... then re-assembled the motor (cam was unhurt) with new coated rods and mains..... again... clearances were all between .0015 and .002.

3.) Installed the engine again! Cranked right up.....good oil pressure..... but 20 min of idling.... pressure is down real low again..... by this point.... my patience is wearing thin.... this ain't fun anymore. To rule out something funky going on with the poor-boy hyd roller conversion.... I pulled the intake and put a brand new set of morrel lifters.....new pushrods (different length).....put intake back on...... buttoned everything back up.... cranked it up..... same thing.... good cold oil pressure.... but the longer it sat idling..... the lower it got... to the point it was less than 10 psi or so idling.... and I already know what would happen if I took it around the block...

At this point... I had so many other posts and responses in my other thread.... the next logical step was the oil pump.... so I messed with it.... tried some stuff Lee Thompson suggested.....then some stuff Earl Brown suggested.....at the end of me messing with it... I had ditched the HV gears..... polished out the imperfections of the cover on a piece of glass and sandpaper..... did the EB oil pump and timing cover mods...... and reassembled the front cover and put it back on the engine.....which at this point.... was still in the car. Fired it up...... same result. At this point I am beyond torqued off.... so I let the car sit for about 3-4 months... then I pulled the motor out..... and it is still sitting on the stand.... waiting on me to do something. I have pretty much convinced myself it has to be in the cam bearings or some crack in the block that has been missed up to this point that is opening up more as the engine gets hot and letting the oil hemorrhage out....

I have about made up my mind... if I don't find anything... to set that block aside and build up a stock bottom end that I now have enough parts to do with another block.... and put my roller setup in it....and heads/cam/intake.... and put it in the car so I can drive it. It has been down really since about August 2006....

I am also working on assembling another good engine...this time with girdle.... good crank and rods for my play motor.... and using the stock bottom end motor for a spare to just drive around in anyway...or in-between getting this new good motor built.

Was that long enough for you? whew!
 
+

"1.) On the first crankup.... I had the cam sensor off some so it didn't crank right away..... and (looking back) one time it was spinning over funny... kinda like I had the initial timing too high on an old school motor.... it acted like it locked up during cranking... then broke free instantly".....


Hey we learn something everyday- If it is me I would not let your buddy build your engine ever again.Not priming an engine before start up is a death wish and locked up engine calls for dissasembly and not for continues cranking to break it loose.Take it all appart and start from scratch - just my two cents.:cool:
 
"1.) On the first crankup.... I had the cam sensor off some so it didn't crank right away..... and (looking back) one time it was spinning over funny... kinda like I had the initial timing too high on an old school motor.... it acted like it locked up during cranking... then broke free instantly".....


Hey we learn something everyday- If it is me I would not let your buddy build your engine ever again.Not priming an engine before start up is a death wish and locked up engine calls for dissasembly and not for continues cranking to break it loose.Take it all appart and start from scratch - just my two cents.:cool:

Oh... I guess I left off... I did prime it... with a priming tool..... they did too. Looking back....I still haven't found what the oil pressure issue is... my measured .003 clearances...we checked after driving the car and ultimately had a little running with little to no oil pressure. Who is to say that my mains didn't have .002 or under before startup....?? The low to 0 oil pressure at anypoint would begin to wear bearings out shaving the material off the longer it ran.....

As far as it locking up for just a split second.... it was only during cranking... and I had never let off the key switch until it had already broke free.... it happened that fast. It just acted like I had 30° initial timing while cranking on an old school 350 chevy.... didn't think anything about it when I found my cam sensor to be off....
 
Just one little comment - you say "I have pretty much convinced myself it has to be in the cam bearings or some crack in the block that has been missed up to this point that is opening up more as the engine gets hot and letting the oil hemorrhage out....". I think the leak is staying the same but as the oil heats up its viscosity drops and that's why more leaks out. From a cold start the oil takes maybe twice as long as the coolant to get up to temp, so idling for 20 minutes probably isn't long enough. Sadly, I don't have any real suggestions on where to check next. I think your idea of pulling the intake and pan and rigging up a feed and pump drive is a good one.
 
If this was from oil coming out around the lifters I think it would probably have low oil pressure as soon as you started it. Whatever the problem is has to be pretty obvious though. Even if there were a crack in something it would have to be bad enough to be visible by the naked eye to cause zero oil pressure.

Is the pickup tube bolted on the block tight etc.? I'd almost guarantee that the problem will be obvious if you really check everything out carefully.

It could be leaking around the lifters... I didn't do anything exotic to my motor because I don't think it's needed on a turbo Buick. The bottom end is only going to hold so much, and it's easy to reach that level of power with "run of the mill" mods.
 
As others stated my first thought it bearing clearances, but this is a tough one. When you did the front cover, what all did you reuse? Did you reuse the oil filter mount? Using the modified front cover shouldn't affect anything in a negative way, but I would try to see what has been a common part each time you had the issues. You said you bought another used front cover at one point but never said whether you tried it out or not. Also, Dr Frank mentioned the bypass sticking, which would make me want to try a completely different filter mount, even a used one.
 
My current setup was around 140# on the seat. It might not pull that high. I am in the process of accumulating some more parts and doing some swapping..... cam might change slightly......

Change rocker arms to get the lift down and run 160 on the seat.
 
I would look @ this. Don't the guys running TSM bush the lifter bores? I assumed it was because they were running solid rollers. Could be 2 reasons. Best of luck.

No lifter bushings here and no solid roller :D
 
No lifter bushings here and no solid roller :D

I never said you had them :biggrin:

OT - I did hear you got accused of having a bottle.... LOL

Congrats on the victory at BG and possibly a new personal best? That is just plain getting it done.
 
I admit that Im no expert on these stock block engines , but common sense tells me that when the engine heats up all the clearances , including the oil pump open up thus your pressure tends to drop. This is a common occurance on any engine not just yours. Your problem seems to be worse than others because you eventually see 0 pressure verses say 20. You really only need to pick up 20# at idle to make it go away!! The hi volume pump would correct some if not all of this of this but may not be necessary. As stated before maybe put an additional guage on it to verify the readings , try 20-50 weight oil next!! The 20 means it flows like 20 weight when cold and actually is 50 weight when hot , the thicker oil will tend to resist passing through the opened up clearances a bit more when hot thus raising the pressure.

Do you use an oil coller on the car?? Just brain storming with you here!!

Mike:cool:
 
I admit that Im no expert on these stock block engines , but common sense tells me that when the engine heats up all the clearances , including the oil pump open up thus your pressure tends to drop. This is a common occurance on any engine not just yours. Your problem seems to be worse than others because you eventually see 0 pressure verses say 20. You really only need to pick up 20# at idle to make it go away!! The hi volume pump would correct some if not all of this of this but may not be necessary. As stated before maybe put an additional guage on it to verify the readings , try 20-50 weight oil next!! The 20 means it flows like 20 weight when cold and actually is 50 weight when hot , the thicker oil will tend to resist passing through the opened up clearances a bit more when hot thus raising the pressure.

Do you use an oil coller on the car?? Just brain storming with you here!!

Mike:cool:

I do not currently have an oil cooler on the car.

My car has the usual F-body aluminum single row radiator with a tranny cooler only built in..... I do have an external cooler to install on the car, but haven't done that yet.

I had intended to run synthetic oil once I broke it in good....and seated the rings. I had figured the synthetic wouldn't coke in the turbo..... which was a good thing..... it seems much more stable than dino oil at extreme temps without loosing its viscosity or lubricating properties.

10-4 on the 20W50 oil. I had tried some of that initially.... possibly while I still had the HV gear setup in my oil pump......didn't have an effect.

I might try and run another gauge off the back of the block somewhere to see if I get some big pressure drop at the back of the lifter oil galley. Wouldn't hurt to check.
 
Lack of the oil cooler may be leading to some higer oil temps which in turn thins out the oil , so a cooler would most likely help your situation out. I believe that a buick v6 engine was designed to have 50% of its cooling be done by both the oil and the coolant system. Maybe someone with a bit more knowledge than I will chime in and correct me or verify this?? But if this is true imagine what would happen to your coolant temp if you took your radiator fan off.

If you put the engine on a stand for testing and your serious and willing to share. Put the pan on and oil in it. Put drill on oil pump and start testing with an oil pressure guage attached. Also need to have someone turning the crank while doing this and watch carefully where oil is moving. Try different oils and most importantly test it cold and hot if you can. Stick on oil pan heaters might work or simple Sterno food warmers will heat your oil up for testing. I have seen this very same issue from others and we are all intrested in the solution. Have a few friends over and document your testing for all to see. Dont give up , get busy!! Mike:cool:
 
Back
Top