The car got a 1.57-60ft, it average was 1.5-1.6, Im not sure what the 1/8 was. all i had was BFG 26' DRs. I really dont like the way the front end has no play, because i stop at all rail road crossing thinking i will hurt something, but the taller tires give it a good ride.WOWHard runnin car, what was your 60' and 1/8th on that one? if you don't mind me asking.
Boost at the line
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Wasted crank...twice!
"Here's my story, sad but true..." (opening line to a '60's song...who knows what song?) Anyway, I've wasted two cranks by holding down on the throttle too long at the line. You'd think I'd learn after the first time. Got to be carefull when power brakeing as it builds up line pressure in the trans. This in turn either forces the converter forward or balloons it out forcing the crank against the thrust bearing. If your lucky only the bearing will be damaged, but most likely the thrust face on the crank will be scared. This is very difficult to repair, if you even wanted to, as welding back the face you must avoid the rolled fillet area on the journal. Has this happened to anyone else?
"Here's my story, sad but true..." (opening line to a '60's song...who knows what song?) Anyway, I've wasted two cranks by holding down on the throttle too long at the line. You'd think I'd learn after the first time. Got to be carefull when power brakeing as it builds up line pressure in the trans. This in turn either forces the converter forward or balloons it out forcing the crank against the thrust bearing. If your lucky only the bearing will be damaged, but most likely the thrust face on the crank will be scared. This is very difficult to repair, if you even wanted to, as welding back the face you must avoid the rolled fillet area on the journal. Has this happened to anyone else?
Yes, it is a 200-4R. TC was bought from PTS Extreme Trans in Wilton CA. Don't know who exactly made it. Strange looking beast. (see pix) Trans was built locally (Portland) by a knowledgable GN guy. Here's a list of the parts and upgrades; 10 vane pump kit, Alto Red clutch kit, Art Carr hardened forward drum, bushing kit, center support (core), Hardeded stator support, Pump (core), shift kit, Superior super servo, Alto wide band, Thrust washer kit.
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CliffyC. Do a search in the transmission section. Try crank thrust wear or problem. I've written much on the subject in a few threads there. This isn't really the thread or section to discuss it. After reading over those threads, if you still have any questions, revive one of the threads over there.
That will more easily result in a wiped out front pump in your transmission. The torque converter ends up trying to push the pump rotor through the back of the pump. The back of the pump (the pump cover) is made of aluminum, so that damage happens very easily and quickly. It usually will happen so fast, you won't get the car around the block before it stops moving. That's exactly why you want to make sure you have free clearance between the torque converter and flexplate before bolting it up. If the front pump of the transmission is fine, that wasn't the problem.
imjoesnuffy
I just break stuff!
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Now that's just showing off. I saw you run at BG last year, very nice.
Speed_Dreamin'
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Alright, what gives? I have only been to the track w/ my GN once. Launched at 5 psi off the foot brake, Nitto 275/50 DRs, pass air bag (no other suspension mods), w/ front sway bar in place. Netted 2.0 60ft times with what felt like 0 tire spin! Where is all the low end power? Car has a
TA49, 009s, 3in DP, 2.5 in duals, stretch stock location intercooler. Likely with worn out valve springs. Anyone?
TA49, 009s, 3in DP, 2.5 in duals, stretch stock location intercooler. Likely with worn out valve springs. Anyone?
imjoesnuffy
I just break stuff!
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I am no guru at this, that's why I started the thread but...
Can you launch with more boost? Next time to the track, have someone verify that you aren't getting tirespin. Videotape it if you have to.
I have read on here that removing the front sway is worth 2 tenths. Makes sense to me as it would allow for more front end suspension travel and shifting the weight back on the car, allowing for more pressure to be applied to the rear tires. Play around with tire pressure and find what the car likes, same thing with the PSI in the airbag.
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Not bad, let's see what you can throw at us this year.
I bet you have something left on the table!
I am going to try, but my goal is to have a consistent race car 1st. I'm pretty happy with the 8.50, 8.48, 8.49 runs in competition this year . We have a lot of homework to do to get the car to the 330' faster and as you know it isn't all about 60's at this power level.
I think the key word is HOMEWORK. There is a few TSO cars coming out this year and you can bet they have already done their homework so it all coming together on the right day will be where it is at.
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Are you using the traction control in the BS3?
Do you have an AMS Boost controller?
Both of those would be your friend in making this happen?
The car is running very well, you should be proud.
I think this year is going to be crazy fast.
John, I was not using the traction control last year. I plan on putting in on the car this spring.
I am using the AMS-1000 controller, but didn't start hitting the tune on it very well (doing it myself) until it was time to run qualifying times and I thought it be best to leave well enough alone for the time. I am considering running Radials this year so it will be a whole new learning curve I'm sure.
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Ted,
I am sure with the little more time you will get her right were you want her.
I like the idea on the radials and I almost wonder in the whole class should go in that direction?
I am sure with the little more time you will get her right were you want her.
I like the idea on the radials and I almost wonder in the whole class should go in that direction?
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