Bought a '85 T-type, help me spend my money!

[GMTECH12002]

Yes 25 psi is too much, 20 is too much, you probably have a waste gate stuck closed on the turbo, you will lean out badly at these boost levels and loose the head gaskets or worse. Manually operate the waste gate by hand to make sure it moves, also make sure your vac/boost lines are intact and hooked up correctly. Don't run this car at wot with this much boost, you will have serious failures.


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[GMTECH12002]

Yes 25 psi is too much, 20 is too much, you probably have a waste gate stuck closed on the turbo, you will lean out badly at these boost levels and loose the head gaskets or worse. Manually operate the waste gate by hand to make sure it moves, also make sure your vac/boost lines are intact and hooked up correctly. Don't run this car at wot with this much boost, you will have serious failures.


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[Wahoo]

any boost over 10# is not good on unknown engine condition. there are only 2 manifold pressure ports on stock engine. one is at the base of the turbo just before the manifold. the boost control solinoid and the waste gate is connected to the turbo port .....the other is at the back of the manifold. the hard line that runs along the driver side by the fuel rail to the fuel pressure regulator and the map sensor are connected to the rear manifold port. all other lines are just vacume and are connected to the ports on the top of the throttle body.. the hard line mentioned has two welded together. one to fuel pressure regulator. other to vacume for the vapor canister

The hard ones that are welded together side by side were not connected to the back of the manifold properly, the one for the fuel pressure regulator was connected to the vacuum block on the throttle body rather than the line on the back of the intake. I fixed the fuel pressure regulator which is now connected to the same line that the map sensor is connected to on the back of the intake.

I have pictures of my waste gate on the other pages can someone tell me if its adjustable so I can turn it down?

The waste gate solenoid is on the driverside valve cover? I think those are connected right... Do they also need to be connected to the back of the manifold?

 

[GMTECH12002]

Sorry bout the double post, love them iPhones! Definately do the 87 ECM upgrade,then do a pump upgrade with Hotwire, e85 compatible, then if e85 is available @ you, call Eric at TT and get some 60s with e85 chip. If the stock maf is working ok, it will flow enough air to get you into the 11s at least, before spending cash for the upgraded ls1 withe translator, but first and fore
most get that boost under control


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[bobs84ttype]

the waste gate actuator you have is adjustable... the longer you make the rod it lowers the boost. disconnect the rod by removing the c clip. insure the waste gate moves freely adjust the rod to where it can be placed back on the shaft with no effort not pulling or pushing on the waste gate shaft. any high boost at that point will mean the actuator lines are not plumbed correctly or the actuator is not working

 

[bobs84ttype]

check engine could be EGR fault due to you sorting thru the plumbing. it also requires vaccume source to operate

 

[bobs84ttype]

looking at your waste gate actuator it appears to be plumbed wrong manifold pressure should go to the driver side port. and vaccume to the pass side port. you have manifold pressure holding the gate closed not opening it.

 

[Wahoo]

looking at your waste gate actuator it appears to be plumbed wrong manifold pressure should go to the driver side port. and vaccume to the pass side port. you have manifold pressure holding the gate closed not opening it.

Thanks for the info, ill change it tomorrow, just a simple swap side to side?

 

[Wahoo]

The vacuum hoses that have the y-tee should all be off manifold pressure? Everything off that y fitting?

 

[Wahoo]

the waste gate actuator you have is adjustable... the longer you make the rod it lowers the boost. disconnect the rod by removing the c clip. insure the waste gate moves freely adjust the rod to where it can be placed back on the shaft with no effort not pulling or pushing on the waste gate shaft. any high boost at that point will mean the actuator lines are not plumbed correctly or the actuator is not working

How freely should the waste gate rod move? It feels hard to actuate, I really gotta pull it to get it to move.

 

[GMTECH12002]

pull the c clip off where the rod contacts the waste gate arm, then disconnect the rod and move the wastegate arm to make sure it moves freely and you should be able to hear that it makes contact with the housing when you close it. the actuator itself is spring loaded inside so it will have resistance to move but you should be able to pull out on the rod to make sure it can open the waste gate, how much resistance depends on your strength in your hand, my experience with these actuators is you start to think your not gonna be able to move it by hand but keep pulling and it will start to move

 

[GMTECH12002]

by looking at the pic, looks like you just need to switch the two hoses on the actuator so the hoses with the y-tee will connect to the right side barb on the actuator and the hose going to the throttlebody should be on the left side barb on the actuator.

 

[Wahoo]

by looking at the pic, looks like you just need to switch the two hoses on the actuator so the hoses with the y-tee will connect to the right side barb on the actuator and the hose going to the throttlebody should be on the left side barb on the actuator.

So I did switch the hoses and it boosted up to 15psi still... Check engine light still on, I hooked up the rear of the intake Map line back to the hard steel lines that are welded together running on the intake, the one that goes to the fuel pressure regulator appears to be like a Tee that also provides map to the egr thing right? So I feel if that was why my check engine light is on, it should have fixed it.


Also regarding the waste gate actuator rod, I can pull it but its damn hard to pull, I'm not a weak person but I feel like I have to grab it with all my fingers wrapped around the rod and pull it, I don't even know if when I pull it i max out the spring.

So is there a way to just use the rod to limit boost? Like I can adjust it to lengthen it as long as I can and lower the boost? Like I said I put Manifold pressure on the right side and vacuum on the left but still boosted to 15psi, only because I didnt go wot, probably would of went to 25 again.

 

[bobs84ttype]

do you have access to compressed air? you can move the actuator with a little pressure. try to drive with rod disconnected and see how high boost will go.
did the waste gate move freely with rod disconnected.

 

[Wahoo]

Ill try when I get home to use some nitrogen to move the rod. It could be the fact that the hose coming off from under the turbo that is supposed to go to that Y is old and hard and lose. Anyone know what size goes to the turbo and that y fitting?

 

[Wahoo]

So I unhooked the actuator rod and put 20psi on the right side to try to push the rod out and it didnt move at all. It's hard to pull as is like I said, so I guess I need a new waste gate too :/. Another thing to add to the list!

Broke the y fitting that has the restrictor in it so i had to buy a restrictor and put it before the y and you can see almost all my vacuum lines are now new.

Also noticed oil in a couple of the vacuum lines, does that mean theres another problem?

Too bad the waste gate is keeping me from making sure the car runs good.

Here's a picture

 

[GMTECH12002]

Loosen the nut and adjust the rod longer to lower spring pressure in the actuator, thus lowering boost, it will take several rotations of the rod to get to safe levels.


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[GMTECH12002]

Don't forget also that you need to make sure that with the rod disconnected that the waste gate flap inside the turbo moves freely by moving the little 90degree arm that the rod c clips to.


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[Wahoo]

The waste gate flap does move, I tried 20psi on either side of the waste gate ports and the rod doesn't move, so I need a waste gate

Good news scan master is installed, here's my readings.

O2 220-650 at idle, giving gas and around 5psi of boost its in low 700s
AF 4 at idle
L8 32 at idle 42in gear
BAT jumps around a little between 12.5-13.5, at idle it did 12.9-13.1
INT 132 at idle
BL 149 at idle
CLT 209 at idle and driving
R 750 give or take
TPS .40 at idle
IAC 31
CC jumps by 30ish at idle, jumps by 40ish driving
MAL 31, 23 is there a waste gate fuse or did my solenoid just go bad? The other is the intake air temp sensor I haven't installed yet

Thoughts?

 

[GMTECH12002]

The waste gate flap does move, I tried 20psi on either side of the waste gate ports and the rod doesn't move, so I need a waste gate

you need the wastegate ACTUATOR, the part with the 2 hoses and the rod. you could still be adjusted way too tight, lengthen the rod as has been previously posted, several turns, infact turn it out as far as it will go without falling out of the eyelet that c clips onto the turbo wastegate arm, this will be your safest point to start, if it still over boosts, dont test any further until you get a new actuator, and the adjusting starts all over, also be 100% sure you have boost going into the actuator, maybe by teeing into where the hose goes into the actuator on the right side, from your Y tee