Bought a '85 T-type, help me spend my money!

turbonut85 said:
The gen 2 will help you with fuel and spark adjustments...but you need the scanmaster to monitor and set baseline settings for the rest of the car. Scanmaster should be the first purchase you make...period.

Well said.
Click to expand...

I thought you can also tune with the scan master? Like adjust things?
 
You can make adjustments in the chip for fuel and spark...but that's AFTER you get it running good in its current form. The scanmaster is most useful as a monitoring tool. You can use it to set your tps, iac, see if you are running rich, or lean, monitor knock retard, battery voltage, coolant temp, trouble codes, MAF readings, etc. Its a MUST HAVE in my opinion.
 
Wahoo said:
Ok thanks for the response, so I can save money and skip that.

Any thoughts of getting the translator gen 2 for tuning the car? Do you even need a scan master to view all the parameters or does the gen 2 take its place?
Click to expand...

I would go with a reg translater.. Just tune with the chip.. We only use the chip and a scanmaster. Keep things stupid and simple.:cool:
 
Seems like everything I need is $200 lol, but slowly buying the stuff to get her in tip top shape!
 
I found a bunch of connectors under the hood if my car that I have no clue of what they are supposed to be connected to, all unplugged. Can anyone tell me if these unplugged connectors are important?


Also tell me if there is an aftermarket downpipe connected to the turbo?

These three are near the master on the driver side fender

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This exhaust looks not stock to me?

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maybe AC compressor?
 
Pic 1: powermaster brake system connectors....yours has been converted to vacuum brakes...thank the previous owner and tuck those connectors away, you don't need them.

Pic 2: stock downpipe, aftermarket up pipe...possibly an old ATR pipe.

Pic 3: a/c compressor connector...judging by the missing ac belt...I'd say they in hooked the connector from the connector because its prolly bad...who knows?
 
I'm almost finished installing my boost gauge, I thought I could hook it up to the char coal cannister but I guess I was wrong since its not working.

How do I turn down the boost to make it safer, I feel like idk if someone cranked it and its not tuned for it.
 
So I changed my connection for the boost gauge and it still isn't working? Shouldn't it work coming off the T like this?

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So I still was having problems with reading boost on the gauge so I decided to try to hook it up to another vacuum line, this time I hooked it up to a T that seems to be behind the turbo and actually goes to the intake manifold. Still isnt working though :/

Maybe I got something in the white hard plastic line the gauge came with? Can I buy a new hard white plastic line from somewhere?




Also found a wire that comes out of this group of wires that seems to be cut and not connected to anything any more, it comes from the group of wires that seem to have the idle air control sensor plug in it. Please let me know what it is

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find the air line that goes to the map sensor located on passenger fender with the relays. that would provide proper hook up for boost guage. where you have it in the above pic is a vacuum source and will not have manifold pressure
 
bobs84ttype said:
find the air line that goes to the map sensor located on passenger fender with the relays. that would provide proper hook up for boost guage. where you have it in the above pic is a vacuum source and will not have manifold pressure
Click to expand...
Is this the map sensor? I thought it was just the sensor for the factory boost gauge, so I took the line off of it and hooked up the boost gauge to the line but didnt reconnect it. Here's a picture of it.

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This made the boost gauge work but my check engine light turned on.... Then I realized what if this is the mystical map sensor people have talked about, so I tee'd it in again.

So now that my boost gauge is working and I also hooked my fuel pressure regulator up to the map sensor line since it was only hooked up to vacuum...which probably caused my fuel pressure to not increase with boost.

Long story short the car runs a bit better, it hits over 20psi on the boost gauge, is that normal for a stock car to hit 20psi?


I also want to state the vacuum line to the map sensor was not ran in the original locations, this made it very difficult to find them when people are telling me where they're supposed to be lol, but I'm glad i made progress. Just waiting on the scan master to check out my O2 and knock reading, along with everything else.
 
So it made 25 psi on the boost gauge... Is that a bit high for a stock car other than what someone identified as a aftermarket up pipe?

Even though I T'd the MAP sensor back the check engine light is still on, wonder what it could be lol, I hope my scanmaster gets here tomorrow!
 
any boost over 10# is not good on unknown engine condition. there are only 2 manifold pressure ports on stock engine. one is at the base of the turbo just before the manifold. the boost control solinoid and the waste gate is connected to the turbo port .....the other is at the back of the manifold. the hard line that runs along the driver side by the fuel rail to the fuel pressure regulator and the map sensor are connected to the rear manifold port. all other lines are just vacume and are connected to the ports on the top of the throttle body.. the hard line mentioned has two welded together. one to fuel pressure regulator. other to vacume for the vapor canister
 
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