Bought a '85 T-type, help me spend my money!
- Thread starter Wahoo
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GMTECH12002
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- Dec 1, 2004
By tightening the rod it puts more pretension on the internal spring in The actuator so if its too tight the spring will be very tight causing very high pressure to move the rod.
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GMTECH12002
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- Dec 1, 2004
code 23 is the MAT could be cause by having the key on with the intake tube off, make sure the mat is plugged in
code 31 wastegate actuator solenoid, can be found by following the 3rd hose off the Y tee back to around the drivers valve cover, next to the brake booster, make sure its plugged in and the wires look good, clear the codes and see if they reset, if they do then you can start the diagnosis process for each code. CLT temps are high, recommend cooler thermostat, and the INT and BL indicate your lean, gotta get that fuel system upgraded, but for now check the fuel filter, ah heck just replace it, there cheap, then you can check fuel pressure, at idle with vacuum line off regulator, should be set to 43psi
code 31 wastegate actuator solenoid, can be found by following the 3rd hose off the Y tee back to around the drivers valve cover, next to the brake booster, make sure its plugged in and the wires look good, clear the codes and see if they reset, if they do then you can start the diagnosis process for each code. CLT temps are high, recommend cooler thermostat, and the INT and BL indicate your lean, gotta get that fuel system upgraded, but for now check the fuel filter, ah heck just replace it, there cheap, then you can check fuel pressure, at idle with vacuum line off regulator, should be set to 43psi
I didnt complete the conversion yet so I don't have the intake air temp sensor yet so thats why the code is on.
Yeah I need to change the fuel filter to be safe, waiting on some parts to come in, adj fuel pressure reg, Hotwire kit, caspers mAt conversion harness kit.
Yeah I need to change the fuel filter to be safe, waiting on some parts to come in, adj fuel pressure reg, Hotwire kit, caspers mAt conversion harness kit.
GMTECH12002
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- Dec 1, 2004
Your on the right track, sounds like we're already spending that cash! Just be patient until you get the fuel upgraded. 1 question though, when you apply 20 psi of pressure, was the rod connected to the turbo? If so, try it again with the rod disconnected, if still no movement, your done til you replace the actuator along with the fuel upgrades
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It even hit 25psi with everything hooked up, but if I try with the rod disconnected wont it either stay closed or open up and never close?
Tomorrow ill try to adjust the rod to make it longer but I think it looks pretty long already. Like its not like I have to push the rod into diaphragm(waste gate), I actually need to pull the rod out of the waste gate just a hair to hook it onto the linkage on the turbo.
Tomorrow ill try to adjust the rod to make it longer but I think it looks pretty long already. Like its not like I have to push the rod into diaphragm(waste gate), I actually need to pull the rod out of the waste gate just a hair to hook it onto the linkage on the turbo.
GMTECH12002
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- Dec 1, 2004
I mean to apply 20 psi of shop air without the car running. With the rod disconnected just to see if the actuator will move, and if the car is ran with the rod off the it will make zero boost.
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I also want to state that I didnt change the maf yet its on the stock '85 map with the 86/87 ECM, its running good, I do have the maf translator coming in the mail, I don't know if I will install it and switch to a ls1 or lt1 maf until I run into a problem.
Just for people who are going to do the conversion.
Just for people who are going to do the conversion.
Yeah I tested it with the rod off at 20psi of shop air, didnt move the rod even though it wasnt connected. That's why I think the waste gate is bad. I haven't ran the car with the rod disconnected because I figure the turbo gate will just open up and never return to closed so idk
GMTECH12002
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- Dec 1, 2004
" I figure the turbo gate will just open up and never return to closed "
that is correct, let me know when you get the new parts in
that is correct, let me know when you get the new parts in
Bought a used adjustable wastegate hope it works and lasts a bit. Also think my fuel pressure regulator arrived but I have all my packages sent to my moms.
I did get a small fuel pressure gauge in the mail that will need some fitting to fit to the stock rail, I accidentally let a little bit of the fluid that was in it out ?!? The gauge came in the mail and looked like the needle was maxed out so I thought it has pressure in it and I popped this small cap off the side thinking maybe it has some fuel in there lol ended up with an air bubble in the gauge, I hope it still operates accurately.
I did get a small fuel pressure gauge in the mail that will need some fitting to fit to the stock rail, I accidentally let a little bit of the fluid that was in it out ?!? The gauge came in the mail and looked like the needle was maxed out so I thought it has pressure in it and I popped this small cap off the side thinking maybe it has some fuel in there lol ended up with an air bubble in the gauge, I hope it still operates accurately.
Got my adjustable fuel pressure regulator installed today, I tried to buy a fitting to mount my fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail but advanced auto doesn't have anything and the pep boys near me wasnt a "speed shop" pep boys.
I figured I'd try to adjust it, I get knock around 10-12 psi, so how do I increase fuel pressure with it... I'm a noob and its late. Also how sensitive is it, like do I go by 1/4 turns or more?
So I was driving around yesterday at night time, it was like 75 degrees out, my gf rolled up the passenger window because she was cold... The scan master showed my coolant temp to be 220 degrees Fahrenheit!!! Man these cars run hot huh? Is this normal or is there a problem?
I guess I need to do the f body radiator ASAP! Does it just bolt right in and I have to extend the tranny lines to the tranny cooler?
I guess I need to do the f body radiator ASAP! Does it just bolt right in and I have to extend the tranny lines to the tranny cooler?
Yeah it was like 223 today... I wonder if maybe its because its the stock chip? Did they run too much timing back then?
So I still need toget my fuel pressure gauge mounted but I was busy today, and couldn't make it in time to the parts store... If someone could tell me what I need and I can go to homedepot to get it that would be easy for me!
So I knew its still too lean so I increased fuel pressure even though I had no gauge.
Seems like INT are 128 give or take but BLs are 105-130.
Seems like my increase in fuel pressure doesn't show up in the INT but only in the BL.
Then I noticed I got a code for 13 which is slow reacting O2 sensor? My CCs were jumping 50-60 when driving normal, ill see if tomorrow it still has the code 13 maybe its just from the increased fuel pressure... I know I need toget that gauge on to see what it's at.
Like I said if someone could tell me the fittings I need from Home Depot that would be the easiest way.
Thx
GMTECH12002
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- Dec 1, 2004
Ok give us a rundown on the mods you have completed. Also did you get the boost under control? Like max around 9-10 psi. Maybe pull out your thermostat to see what temp it is, should be stamped on the brass part. I don't run a thermostat in my car so on the open road I am between 125-145. As for the fuel fittings I'm not sure, I just hooked my snap on gauge up and set my pressure then disconnected my gauge so I know I won't have any leaks
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GMTECH12002
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- Dec 1, 2004
Ok priority 1. Wait for the new waste gate actuator. Get the boost under control
2. When you can properly control the boost then get the fuel pump upgraded
3. Now focus on the running hot problem, pull the thermostat to inspect, or leave out, you should also bypass the coolant lines to the throttle body so that hot coolant is not preheating the intake air. If the car still runs hot, you may need the radiator upgrade
4. Only after the first three steps should you increase boost and fuel pressure to start getting more horsepower
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2. When you can properly control the boost then get the fuel pump upgraded
3. Now focus on the running hot problem, pull the thermostat to inspect, or leave out, you should also bypass the coolant lines to the throttle body so that hot coolant is not preheating the intake air. If the car still runs hot, you may need the radiator upgrade
4. Only after the first three steps should you increase boost and fuel pressure to start getting more horsepower
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Yeah I'd like to control the boost, I really hope the part is in the mail, on its way.
So I bought a coupler from homedepot today, it says 1/8 on it? It fits the fuel pressure gauge but doesn't fit the coarser threads of the fuel rail? Seems strange, I don't know why they would design fuel pressure gauges to have different threads than what I'd imagine to be a pretty standard thread on the fuel rails.
So I bought a coupler from homedepot today, it says 1/8 on it? It fits the fuel pressure gauge but doesn't fit the coarser threads of the fuel rail? Seems strange, I don't know why they would design fuel pressure gauges to have different threads than what I'd imagine to be a pretty standard thread on the fuel rails.
turbonut85
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- Apr 11, 2008
223* on a 75* day.......just driving around.....AFTER repeatedly hitting 25psi on a hot air with no alky or E-85....?? Smells like a more serious problem.....time for a coolant level check, compression check, plug check......possible "stretched" head gasket or worse...??
