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Brake Proportioning Valve ???'s

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salvageV6

Daily Driver
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
20,929
Anyone know a quality all weather type under car or under hood proportioning valve that is relatively easy to install to control the rear brakes (1/4" line?) on our TR's?

I need to tone down the rear Baer disks since the fronts had 60% pads and the rears none when I put the snows on. :eek:

Can it be installed PRE-factory (gutted rear section) balancing block up near the brake cylinder?

Any help appreciated especially from people that have them installed for a while.....
 
I just put in a stock proportioning valve (which was easy), but I don't think I can help with your question. What I really wanted to say was Snows? Really? :eek: I try not to drive mine in the rain! Good luck.
 
A Baer prop valve right after the master is what you need. It's a must on a rear disc conversion. Surprised you didn't put one on.

baer-prop-vlve-main-pp.jpg

Once installed, start with the valve adjusted all the way out. That will give the least pressure to the rears. From my experience (for what it's worth) that will be plenty of brake power for the rear.

Call Rick at Baer. He's the man on the brake stuff.

Keep us posted.

RL
 
Thanks, that's the one I'll order. :cool:

Looks easy enough to mount and install. :smile:

I asked Baer (email) what fittings came with it but they didn't do anything but autoreply yet..... :rolleyes:

I guess just after the master won't screw up the light circuit? or front rear valve slider in the stock prop. valve??? :confused:

The problem wasn't so bad with the powermaster on there it's much worse with the vacuum brake setup I just put on.

Well that's my excuse anyway. :p
 
Better yet, give Scot a call at GNS. He can very likely give you a better deal.

GNS
 
Amazon, same price as everyone else, free super saver shipping, no handling charges, and no tax. :cool:
 
OK, seems you're bound and determined to buy outside our circle of vendors. Did you even call Scot to see what kind of a deal you could get??
 
I never heard of him until you mentioned him, he's not in my circle of vendors.

If I have to call to get a deal I usually won't.

I'm not even a fan of pay to play either..... ;)
 
You can get a stock replacement for 4 wheel disc brakes from Kirbans. That keeps everything stock appearing and you still support our vendors that way.:)
 
I never heard of him until you mentioned him, he's not in my circle of vendors.

If I have to call to get a deal I usually won't.

I'm not even a fan of pay to play either..... ;)

He's a TB dot com vendor. By calling I was refering to maybe a holiday special. And I don't even understand your third statement.
 
Supporting vendors don't mean that much to me, they pay to be vendors here, that doesn't magically make them any better or worse than other vendors.

I like the good ones that contribute and communicate a lot and aren't pure salesmen, I buy a lot from them, no implications to GNS since I never heard of them until today.

It was only a $50 Baer Prop. valve, ordering from a good E-commerce site like Amazon was extremely easy.

They had 9 in stock too, information is key which is why I asked the questions to begin with.

I will check out that Kirbans prop. valve as well for 4 wheel disks. :cool:
 
Thanks, that's the one I'll order. :cool:

Looks easy enough to mount and install. :smile:

I asked Baer (email) what fittings came with it but they didn't do anything but autoreply yet..... :rolleyes:

I guess just after the master won't screw up the light circuit? or front rear valve slider in the stock prop. valve??? :confused:

The problem wasn't so bad with the powermaster on there it's much worse with the vacuum brake setup I just put on.

Well that's my excuse anyway. :p

Yep, yep. Very easy to install.

Any issues with the brake light now?

When you gutted the stock prop valve, what ya take out? That's what will effect the light. It did for me anyway. On hard braking the light would come on. After bleeding the hell out of the system, I unplugged the sensor on the stock prop valve to remedy the situation. :p
 
I did the Baer instruction sheet mod. and no lights yet.

It's still the iron stocker though....

Didn't see a 4 wheel disk valve on Kirbans site, only a stock brass replacement one. :confused:

Up top is probably the easiest place for installation/adjustment I think.

I've seen them right inline off the master with no bracket inline but I'm not so sure about vibration etc. but it is heavy 1/4" or so line.....

I may make a bracket and install it to something like the plastic inner fenderwell...

I guess you just uncoil a foot of stock factory line and use two 1/4" nuts and reflare it fit the Baer adapters that go to NPT?
 
I know that one of the vendors has it. It may be G body but one of them has the 4 wheel disc valve on their site besides Baer.
 
Got the valve today, less than 2 days total from time of easy ordering, free shipping, and less than list price from Amazon. :cool:

I'll drive the old WE4 tomorrow to work, and hopefully get this installed on or before Christmas. :D

Not only does it come with adapters it comes with tube nuts too. :smile:

Hopefully I'll get a bracket fabbed up quick enough.
 
Finished it quickly on Christmas morning, it took longer to find the double flare tool I "put away" for safe keeping than it did to reflare and mount up.

Made a quick and easy anti-vibration bracket out of a hardware store steel angle bracket.

Used the stud off the cruise control bracket that sticks up.

I need about 10% more reduction in MHO but all the way out with the valve is the way to go for sure.

Thanks to all for the info. :cool:
 
Nice. I was in the garage a good part of the day. Got a new ss bench. Now I HAVE TO clean the place up. :p

I agree that we could use another %10. Backs don't need much.

I would check the meat on rear pads next chance you get.

RL
 
I just replaced them since they were burnt flat. :eek:

Fronts had 60% left so I knew there was a problem.

One side needs turning or a new rotor so I have to get that done soon.

Finding any info. on Baers site on replacement stuff and part numbers is like pulling teeth. :p
 
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