Brake Upgrade Research and Summary S-10, LS-1, etc

[captainron]

So I’ve done some research on the front brake upgrade options for my T by going through all the posts I could find on the subject . Any of the below upgrades will result in improved braking over the stock system. Getting there is the issue. That said, I’m summarizing the limitations to each of the options as I see it. The objectives are costs, modifications required, and reliability.

1. Over sized heavy-duty single piston calipers and stock sized cross-drilled/slotted rotors – Still results in an under-sized rotor diameter and single piston caliper.

2. S-10 upgrade – Simple interchangeability and can even use LS1 rotors and/or C5 calipers with a bracket, but I keep reading that the sealed bearings on this setup fail often, to the point that the bearing hubs are hard to come by and are expensive.

3. LS1 upgrade – Involves cutting the original caliper mounting ears off the stock spindles, drilling and tapping new holes where the dust plate was mounted, then milling a stock rotor down to the hub so that an LS1 rotor hat will fit over it, then uses a bracket for the new caliper. (extensive machine work)

4. Baer, SSBC, Aerospace – Expensive

Any comments on which of the limitations above is more acceptable or other options for these cars?

 

[scot w.]

So I’ve done some research on the front brake upgrade options for my T by going through all the posts I could find on the subject . Any of the below upgrades will result in improved braking over the stock system. Getting there is the issue. That said, I’m summarizing the limitations to each of the options as I see it. The objectives are costs, modifications required, and reliability.

1. Over sized heavy-duty single piston calipers and stock sized cross-drilled/slotted rotors – Still results in an under-sized rotor diameter and single piston caliper. Agree 100%

2. S-10 upgrade – Simple interchangeability and can even use LS1 rotors and/or C5 calipers with a bracket, but I keep reading that the sealed bearings on this setup fail often, to the point that the bearing hubs are hard to come by and are expensive. Agree 100%

3. LS1 upgrade – Involves cutting the original caliper mounting ears off the stock spindles, drilling and tapping new holes where the dust plate was mounted, then milling a stock rotor down to the hub so that an LS1 rotor hat will fit over it, then uses a bracket for the new caliper. (extensive machine work) These work okay but I have a good friend install these and he went on a roadcourse and after two turns the brakes were completely Gone! They don't last if used hard!

4. Baer, SSBC, Aerospace – Expensive But WAY better than any ones listed above and for BAER they come as a complete bolt on kit with EVERYTHING included!!

I replied in red with my thoughts. When it comes to brakes Buy the "Best"! It may save you and your car someday!!

I know those good brakes are expensive but just kick back and save a bit longer to get them and you will be more satisfied in the end knowing you bought ONCE and done it right the first time.

 

[jdpolzin]

We've been using the S10 Blazer set up on 6 cars for 2-4 years now and havent had one problem so far. I'd say these are the best bang for the buck. The hubs arent that hard to find in a boneyard. New ones are around $100 if one goes bad. Stopping power along with HydroBoost is awesome!


I run 13" C5 brakes with a hydroboost on my GN and to be honest, the S-10 Blazer brakes stop just as well.

 

[Red C5]

Is this mostly for street driving?

 

[captainron]

Is this mostly for street driving?

Yes primarily street driving with 1/8 mile track duty with stops from 100+ mph.

 

[turboc87gn]

You forgot 1.....Use stock style crossdrilled/slotted rotor and upgrade to dual piston aluminum calipers and high perf pads...combined with hydroboost...

 

[jdpolzin]

You forgot 1.....Use stock style crossdrilled/slotted rotor and upgrade to dual piston aluminum calipers and high perf pads...combined with hydroboost...

That is an option but unless you have to be very careful when buying drilled and slotted rotors. Many of the cheaper ones are very prone to crack. If you were to do this, I'd recommend buying brand name rotors like the Bear, SSBC, etc. Sometimes you can find ACDelco ones for much less and they are good quality.

 

[Silver Fox]

I have the Baer Trak 13 inch brakes on the front of my car, and will eventually get the back ones on it. To be honest, they don't feel that much different than the stock brakes. They sure do look cool though...

 

[Darkcyde]

We've been using the S10 Blazer set up on 6 cars for 2-4 years now and havent had one problem so far. I'd say these are the best bang for the buck. The hubs arent that hard to find in a boneyard. New ones are around $100 if one goes bad. Stopping power along with HydroBoost is awesome! I run 13" C5 brakes with a hydroboost on my GN and to be honest, the S-10 Blazer brakes stop just as well.

Straight out that's what's up!

I have the Baer Trak 13 inch brakes on the front of my car, and will eventually get the back ones on it. To be honest, they don't feel that much different than the stock brakes. They sure do look cool though...

Ouch; yea in the good old hay day of the bgnra I had a chance to speak with the president of baer at a meeting where he had a pitch and sale, and then I got to met up with him again @ fontana road course doing the same display pitch n sale but for a different club. I'm sold on his brakes and their capability, but not the price tag. S-10's all the way; look for petesgn s-10 brake thread! Thankfully for this board his s-10 brake thread purchase and install has saved members thousands in total I bet. A real FREE no BS no GIMMICS not from a vender no sale just a guy giving more then his 2cents worth thread that improves braking 10 fold over stock and is affordable and DIY.

 

[captainron]

S-10 Blazer users: So how real is the S-10 sealed bearing reliability issue? Do the bearings wear out any faster than the traditional packed wheel bearings? If it's not really an issue, I'm going the S-10 route. Where's Lee Thompson? I think he did the S-10 upgrade recently and might have some feedback.

 

[jdpolzin]

S-10 Blazer users: So how real is the S-10 sealed bearing reliability issue? Do the bearings wear out any faster than the traditional packed wheel bearings? If it's not really an issue, I'm going the S-10 route. Where's Lee Thompson? I think he did the S-10 upgrade recently and might have some feedback.

The answer is no, they dont wear any earlier than a normal packed bearing and as long as your not pulling high mileage parts at the yard, you probably wont have to worry about them as long as you own them.

Think about one thing here, how many vehicles have sealed hubs? More than you could imagine. I spent an ungodly amount of money on my suspension/brakes and guess what..........My C5 hubs are alo sealed. Is it the best design? NO! But it also not a bad design and it works. People tend exagerate problem areas but to me, they are just normal "wear" parts just like your rotors and pads. And, they really dont cost much more than rotors alone if one would happen to fail.

 

[charlief1]

I did a little research about the hubs and found that the aftermarket 4wd and 2wd hubs interchange. The only difference I found is the 2wd aren't cut for the cv axle splines and have a cap on the out side. The 4wd hubs are cheaper also. I'm ashamed to admit it but I work at a "popular" parts store.

 

[Red C5]

I'm putting strange brakes on my car. Won't be driveable for a few more months though so no review yet. They do look real nice though.

 

[83hurstguy]

REAL happy with my S-10 conversion, I used a set of Hawk ceramic pads (not HPS, as I didn't want dust on my chrome wheels).

It's a night and day difference compared to the stock brakes.

 

[Strahd_Zarovich]

Everyone using the S10 Brakes are you doing anything to the rear?

 

[captainron]

Everyone using the S10 Brakes are you doing anything to the rear?

Well since you asked, I'm at a similar decision point on the rear brakes:

1. Rebuild OEM with aluminum drums and S-10 wheel solenoids - No. Still old drum technology for where I want to go with the car.

2. LT1 style rear disc conversion from Ed Miller- nice setup but requires shock relocation brackets and I don't know how that will work on a lowered car. Also I don't know about the availability of off the shelf brake pads for the PBR calipers in this kit.

3. S-10 rear disc setup - Requires modification of the rear end housing (because ours is metric) and the use of a spacer at each housing end to get the correct geometry for the caliper. However does not require the use of shock relocation brackets.

4. Baer, Strange, Aerospace - $$$$

Any feedback?

 

[83hurstguy]

3. S-10 rear disc setup - Requires modification of the rear end housing (because ours is metric) and the use of a spacer at each housing end to get the correct geometry for the caliper. However does not require the use of shock relocation brackets.

Who has used this successfully on a G-body that is lowered? I measured it up, and it was going to hit the frame rails on mine, which isn't lowered all that much. I have heard of it being successfully used, but on a stock height car.

Also, I don't think the spacer needs to be used, correct me if wrong...

 

[regal81455]

2. LT1 style rear disc conversion from Ed Miller- nice setup but requires shock relocation brackets and I don't know how that will work on a lowered car. Also I don't know about the availability of off the shelf brake pads for the PBR calipers in this kit.

Ive done both conversions ( s10 upfront and ls1 rear in back ). On the rears, stock height car, there was no need for the shock relocation.

 

[turboc87gn]

The answer is no, they dont wear any earlier than a normal packed bearing and as long as your not pulling high mileage parts at the yard, you probably wont have to worry about them as long as you own them.

Think about one thing here, how many vehicles have sealed hubs? More than you could imagine. I spent an ungodly amount of money on my suspension/brakes and guess what..........My C5 hubs are alo sealed. Is it the best design? NO! But it also not a bad design and it works. People tend exagerate problem areas but to me, they are just normal "wear" parts just like your rotors and pads. And, they really dont cost much more than rotors alone if one would happen to fail.

The sealed hub bearings got a bad rep not from s10s or full size trucks it came from the ones used in fwd cars...I went thru 5 of them in a summer in my turbo daytona Then someone told me that the reason is that the engine grounds were bad and the engine was grounding itself thru the strut towers,which was burning up the grease in the hub bearing...Heres the kicker i replaced my engine and didnt put any of the ground straps back on cause they were ragged looking and i didnt know any better..I was like 19..I dont know if thats even possible but i went and bought 3 nice ground straps installed them (motor mount ,head,trans) and never had another hub go bad:biggrin:

 

[charlief1]

It's not really hard to do the disc upgrade on the rears. Here's a pic of mine. The one thing I will tell you is that you need to get everything off the Camaro rear that has to do with the brakes on the rear. You will need all of it to fab the brake set up properly. The cable mounts, lines, and everything. Some minor welding is needed as well.:smile: