Building Turbo Oil Drain

[aminga]

I decided to fashion my own out of -10an line. I can't get it short enough to get the kinks out

Suggestions on how to put one of these together.

 

[charlief1]

Looks like your angles are off a little Al. Can you get a better pic, maybe a little further away?

 

[aminga]

Looks like your angles are off a little Al. Can you get a better pic, maybe a little further away?

I don't think you can see that much but I can try.

I've been leaned over a fender all day with a box of an fittings and this appears to be the best combo. 45 an out of the block Straight fitting out of the turbo. The center section is clocked back toward the motor just enough to get the fitting to clear the actuator.

Maybe I need to trim off about another 1/2" and try again.


I tried a 90 and a 45 together but the fittings are so long there was enough hose between the two.

 

[aminga]

Maybe I should try the stainless like to see if it won't kink as bad

 

[charlief1]

I know I've seen 30 degree fittings somewhere Al. If you can find some it might work better off the turbo.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Secret is in the fittings used! TURBO DRAIN KIT

 

[jjkv]

Secret is in the fittings used! TURBO DRAIN KIT

Since I'm running with a oil restricter, I'd like to have turbo drain kit that would show flow back to the block. Maybe with clear tubing.

 

[charlief1]

There's no high temp clear tubing that I know of. It would melt and then make one heck of a mess.

 

[davelostmissing]

There is teflon tubing:
McMaster-Carr

Don't know what other properties might be required

 

[aminga]

So no one had made their own.

 

[Pronto]

I think about 4 years ago (a while ago?) Russ Merritt had a post with a drainback he made. It looked nice. Might try a search for that...

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

i dont think you can use a straight fitting on either side.... HAS to be angled... i have made a few but wasn't successful with using them with my combo.... i have a large compressor housing with a stock type WG actuator which gets in the way.... when i can [i am out of town] i will try and post pics...
...my drainback would have worked if 1] my compressor cover was a little smaller or 2] i move to an external gate....

aaron

 

[aminga]

i dont think you can use a straight fitting on either side.... HAS to be angled... i have made a few but wasn't successful with using them with my combo.... i have a large compressor housing with a stock type WG actuator which gets in the way.... when i can [i am out of town] i will try and post pics...
...my drainback would have worked if 1] my compressor cover was a little smaller or 2] i move to an external gate....

aaron

So the problem is with 2 angled fittings there's only about 1/2 inch of hose between the two. And it kinks up easily.

I've got a temporary solution in place now. Hopefully it dosn't cause too much oil backup.

 

[cruzn57]

I made one

but it isn't pretty!
had to make a loop in the return hose to prevent kinking,
I used -10 push lok hose,
I'll try to get a pic, but as I said "it ain't pretty"
but it does make install and removal ALOT easier!

 

[aminga]

but it isn't pretty!
had to make a loop in the return hose to prevent kinking,
I used -10 push lok hose,
I'll try to get a pic, but as I said "it ain't pretty"
but it does make install and removal ALOT easier!

Right now I'm using G-bodyparts kit hose ends with a piece of hose I had

I nicked the hose they supply with a knife working on something else and it split putting it on.

 

[williamsGN]

Any reason not to just get a steel braided one from a vendor when you look at the cost of AN fittings and hose ?

 

[RUQWKNF]

To be perfectly honest, braided and stainless braided hose can develope kinks like you are seeing. Typically I recommend going back with a factory style flex tube. Cotton sells a factory replacement as does Nos4gn.
The problem you run into (as you can see in the pictures) using normal hose ends causes the hose to kink and using sharp bend swivel 45* fittings, can cause oil to back up inside the cartridge because the ID of the complete assembly necks down. Some have gotten lucky and not had issues, but I know of a few who have.

The factory flex tubing serves a couple of useful purposes.

- Allows some flex of the line under normal operating conditions.
- Allows the aerated and foamy oil coming out of the turbo to turn back to a liquid state before draining back into the lifter valley.

I have had very good luck using the factory style flex tube on all of my Turbo Buicks. Never had any good results with braided lines, due to how cramped an area we're working with and kinking issue.

Just my O2's worth.

Patrick

 

[williamsGN]

Mine

 

[jpwalt1987]

i made my own....

thats is the same as the one Mark sells. It is some Fragola fittings(45 degree swivel)-10 X 1/2 npt male. I bought them from summit. The flange for the bottom of the turbo was from Race part solutions. I already had the -10 hose. I tried it first with the nylon braided stuff. PITA! I wound up using steel braided hose. You wont save too much money doin it yourself. The fittings are expensive,about $25-$30 a piece. The flange is only about $15 i think. I just like making things myself. Fits like a glove! Thanks for the idea Mark. I will be placing an order verysoon for some other stuff :~)

 

[AN/GSC-52]

To be perfectly honest, braided and stainless braided hose can develope kinks like you are seeing. Typically I recommend going back with a factory style flex tube. Cotton sells a factory replacement as does Nos4gn.
The problem you run into (as you can see in the pictures) using normal hose ends causes the hose to kink and using sharp bend swivel 45* fittings, can cause oil to back up inside the cartridge because the ID of the complete assembly necks down. Some have gotten lucky and not had issues, but I know of a few who have.

The factory flex tubing serves a couple of useful purposes.

- Allows some flex of the line under normal operating conditions.
- Allows the aerated and foamy oil coming out of the turbo to turn back to a liquid state before draining back into the lifter valley.

I have had very good luck using the factory style flex tube on all of my Turbo Buicks. Never had any good results with braided lines, due to how cramped an area we're working with and kinking issue.

Just my O2's worth.

Patrick

Totally agreee. Just changed mine out with one from Cottons. Was a lot easier to change than anticipated. The new line flexed much more. I just started the line to the block fitting 1 1/16" and then twisted into place for the turbo side and finger tighted the bolts, tightened it all up with no fuss. For the $71 it's hard to beat. I did take off the rad hose and S hose first. Should be good for another 25 years.