You can type here any text you want

Can royal purple damage my turbo??

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Snstrgn

New Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
6
Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone can straighten this out. I told a Guy that has been around turbos for a while that I was using royal purple 10w30 in my GN and he said to change it to mobile 1 or pennzoil and then add ZDD. He claimed that royal purple will cause damage to the turbo, is there any truth to that? I personally think its the best out out there. Any help would be appreciated.
 
So, you're saying, "some guy" told you some stuff? Careful what and who's advice you take. My grandfather used to tell me ,"believe half of what you read and none of what you hear", but he didn't say which half.
I put in what's on sale and a wix filter. I change it often. I don't do the cannonball run in it but it does participate in an exhibition of speed now and again.
As far as zddp goes, I'm sure it does something or at least some one thinks it does. A lot gets sold. I guess it couldn't hurt.
 
Zddp is an additive to replace the engine wear chemicals removed by the gov./epa regulations. I haven't seen or heard of any damage by the r/p usage, except as robzombie stated!
 
Zddp is an additive to replace the engine wear chemicals removed by the gov./epa regulations. I haven't seen or heard of any damage by the r/p usage, except as robzombie stated!

ZDDP does exactly what it's supposed to do. Using modern day over the counter oils in a flat tappet cam without ZDDP added is asking for trouble.
 
I flattened the camshaft in my 1st GN years back running Mobil 1 only. I used ZDDP in my 2nd/3rd with zero issues. Firm believer in ZDDP.
 
Any oil that actually damaged a turbo wouldn't get sold. You're buddy is full of it. Is it the best thing out there? No, but nothing ever is.
 
I've used RP in my turbo truck since it's first start in 2001, and it does have a roller cam. Through work back then, I was able to buy a 55 gallon drum for $2.56/QT...
 
For older cars, you'd BETTER use ZDDP! When they got rid of the zinc, etc. in the oil years ago, I put oil I bought around then in my '66 Vette.....on a trip home from Columbus, Ohio in 1990, the no. 4 cam lobe wiped out.....a 327/350.

On my '69 Vette, back in '93, on the way home from New York, the no. 5 cam lobe wiped out....a 350/350+......go figure.....the oil I was buying contain non of the stuff that protected the cam from wear....I wasn't even aware of ZDDP at the time, and was not aware of the phasing out of this stuff........now I've been using ZDDP in both Vettes and the GN......and no problems so far.....this stuff DOES work.......

I wasn't fooling around with any of the Vettes at the time, just long business trips.....

I honestly believe that any car made from '87 and back should always use ZDDP....our own Richard Clark proved this to us all years ago......I think he was the one who invented ZDDP. Correct me if I'm correct.

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
I have never been impressed with RP. I use Valvoline VR1 in my Buick, and my small block, and add comp cams additive to the Buick since its flat tappet.
 
I broke in my sbc in my Camaro with Rotella years ago when it still was ok for flat tappets(supposedly). Ran the initial cam break in, changed the oil, Rotella again. Put a few miles on it. Changed to Royal Purple. Instantly dropped pressure. Went from 70 cold idle, 45 hot to 60 cold, 5 at luke warm. Had digital gauges in it and it would blink after 5 minutes of idling. Thought bad gauge or sender. Went to mechanical gauge, same thing. Changed to valvoline no problem after an hour of driving on a 80 degree day. Only my experience, won't try again.
 
I broke in my sbc in my Camaro with Rotella years ago when it still was ok for flat tappets(supposedly). Ran the initial cam break in, changed the oil, Rotella again. Put a few miles on it. Changed to Royal Purple. Instantly dropped pressure. Went from 70 cold idle, 45 hot to 60 cold, 5 at luke warm. Had digital gauges in it and it would blink after 5 minutes of idling. Thought bad gauge or sender. Went to mechanical gauge, same thing. Changed to valvoline no problem after an hour of driving on a 80 degree day. Only my experience, won't try again.

Always have heard good about Valvoline....I'm definitely going to use that from now on.....is it the Valvoline Racing Oil, synthetic, or what? I've been told so many times that using synthetic oil in my 187,000 mile '87 Grand National will leak oil like a sieve! What do think? Or just go Dino oil?

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
The VR1 Race oil is conventional oil. It is supposed to have zinc and some other stuff that is no longer in other oils. But I still add some zinc additive just to be safe.
 
I have conventional VR1 in the camaro but full syn VR1(blue oil) in the GN only because it was on clearance at Pepboys for $1.50 a quart last fall when I winterized it. My father used Mobile 1 prior.
 
Here is the oil ratings followed by the year it went obsolete: sc (1964), SD (1968), se (1972), sf (1980), SG (1988), sh (1997), sj (2001), SL (2003), sm (2010) sn (currently in use).
 
SN CURRENT

Introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control system compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.
;)
 
but full syn VR1(blue oil) in the GN only because it was on clearance at Pepboys for $1.50 a quart last fall when I winterized it.
Did you buy like 10 cases? I bought a case at $5.95/qt when Oreilly's discontinued it a year ago. I see Advance still carries it for $9.95/qt.
 
Back
Top