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can the mass air flow sensor show his ass without the check engine light coming on?

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A quick search found this:
Credit goes to: MCASteel2112


Engine Grounds
There are four ring type terminals at the elbow of the main wiring harness, two of which attach to the rear of the pass side cylinder head and two that attach to one of the bellhousing bolts.

Ring terminal with 2black/white 16 ga wires (short length)- A/C head pressure switch (gray), MAF, EGR (EVRV) Fuel pump relay, Coolent fan delay relay, ECM large connector C&D ground---NOTE: all spices are within 4 inches of ring terminal.

Ring terminal with 2 black/white 16 ga wires (long)- ECM large connect aux ground, ESC module ground---NOTE: all spices are within 12 inches from the large ground grommet going into pass side firewall below heater box.

Ring terminal with single black 12 ga (short)- A/C high pressure limit switch ( round sealed connector at compressor) --- NOTE: the splice connecting these wires is located about 18 inches from coolant fan connector.

Ring terminal with one black/white wire and one tan 16 ga (long length) ECM small connector- A&B ground. ECM large connector C&D- O2 sensor reference ground and there are NO splices on these connections; All are direct.
 
You need that little strap on the heater core to be grounded too. Don't leave it hanging.
 
Here are pictures of the only 3 ground straps that I have on the engine
 

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Feel down behind the passenger head. There should be wires bolted to it. The wire coming out of the heater core area is OK but NOT an engine ground. Where does the first picture ground go to on the engine?
 
Look at the corrugated oval tubing under the heater core ground strap.... That's where the grounds were looking for should be coming out of.
 
Feel down behind the passenger head. There should be wires bolted to it. The wire coming out of the heater core area is OK but NOT an engine ground. Where does the first picture ground go to on the engine?
The ones from the first pic are going to the tranny bell housing bolt....... Is that where its supposed to go?
 
Okay I see the straps now. I had to crawl up on the car to see them. does anybody know what size that bolt is holding them. So I could see at lease if their tight.
 
Okay I checked all the ground straps and they are all tight, 2 wires going to the front bolt 2 wires are going to the rear bolt. the problem I'm having is so weird. I can start the car after its been sitting for awhile and it will drive absolutely perfect, but when I turn the car off and turn it back on the problem show its ugly face. if it's not the ground what else could this be?
 
Loose electrical connection, broken solder joint, broken wire, etc. I'd start with the ignition module. Wiggle each wire on the harness gently. See if there are any changes. Try the MAF and ecm.
 
Where can I get s guide how to install a module ? I just went to get a another coil module ..... Hooked it up and it won't start ........ I know its the module or the way I hooked it up it came with no instructions....... Go figure?
 
It's pretty self explanatory. The only trick is to make sure there is no rust or corrosion on all the mounting areas and don't tighten the crap out of the small bolt that holds the wiring harness to the module.


Did you make sure to move the 1/4" connectors over the coil in the same orientation as original?
 
Lets reveiw. The coil is black plastic with 3 blocky sections. The module is the metal retangular box that is under the coil. It had a harness connector that is bolted to the side. The coil has tabs on the underside. Wires from the module connect to the coil tabs. If do a search here I'm sure you can find a wiring diagram for the coil wires.
 
OK I was driving when I stopped at a stop sign the check engine light came on for like three secs then went off three codes popped up 13, 34, 44 . what does this mean?

You should take baby steps and start with the obvious, with the ECM giving you a Malfunction Code. (http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html#34)
TurboBob on thread #12 already gave you what the malfunction code definition are. Now you need to replace these parts and see how the engine runs, before you start going on a wild goose chase.
 
Ok, i went back to Autozone and got my money back for the module made by wells which is crap. Then went to orreilly's and got the BWD brand put it together it ran like a "new" old car. I drove around for 2 hours with no problem . I turned the car off turned it back on and it was sputtering again. im gonna order a MAF i see there are two kinds and something called a Translator would i need one to go with the MAF ? Also i saw above that it could be a bad plug or plug wire is this problem a symptoms for one or both of those issues? What are the symptoms of a bad cam sensor? Also what are the symptoms of a bad crank sensor ? I know im getting closer to solving this problem and learning alot thanks to everyone here on this site!!
 
I'm starting to wonder if you have a shorted coil that's overheating the module or something to that effect. Was there any stink or any signs of the potting material melting when you removed the Wells module from your coil. That happened to me once. It would run fine until the module heated up, then I would lose two cylinders until it cooled off.

If you get the new style upgraded MAF you have a have a translator so the new MAF can talk to our old ECM. If you get a parts store stock MAF, it's a good idea to order more than one. In the old day before the translator it took 12 times on average to get one that works right.
 
Is the car harder to start than in the past? That was a symptom of two different mafs going bad, at least for me. One was the stocker, one was the LT-1. The stocker eventually failed. I replaced the LT-1 before it failed, since I was able to out smart it.
 
Was there any stink or any signs of the potting material melting when you removed the Wells module from your coil.
Nope, no bad smell or melting . what could I use to keep the coil cool? The coil is brand new as well I just got both parts together. Today I'm gonna pull the plugs and give them a good look-over I might get some more plug wires the ones I have look kinda cheap "mileage plus brand"..... I can't wait to get this problem licked.
 
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