can the mass air flow sensor show his ass without the check engine light coming on?

[GNONYX]

Also keep in mind to disconnect the orange wire behind the battery to rest the code it gave you before.

 

[earlbrown]

Nope, no bad smell or melting . what could I use to keep the coil cool?

If it's overheating due to a bad coil, as mine was, replacing that is the answer. Here's a bit of troubleshooting info you need to always keep in the back of your mind... New does not equal good. China and other cheapie manufacturers have been flooding the market with substandard crap long enough now that you cannon use 'new' as a given anymore. You'll noticed while reading about these cars you'll often see people mention stuff like 'you need a friend with a good running car to swap parts back and for with'. That's the only way to safely know a part is good is if it's already proven itself under use.


If it were me, I'd split the coil and module and break out the ohmmeter. Measure the top 3 pairs of coil posts and see if the impedance is fairly consistent between them. Then I'd measure the bottom three pairs and see if the primary windings are consistent as well. If you happen to find one pair that's close to shorted, you've found a problem.

Just to refresh my memory... Aren't you the guy that had a knock circuit that wasn't responding. You replaced the knock sensor and then all hell broke loose with the ignition system?

 

[cecil bass]

Yup that's me .... The knock is still not reading !

 

[cecil bass]

Well...... The problem came back !!!!! I'm gonna replace the maf and add a translator. if I replace these and the problem continues with the sputtering what should I look at next? I need all the TB experts on this one!!

 

[cecil bass]

Still not getting a knock reading as well......

 

[earlbrown]

unplug the wireing harness to the ECM and look at the plug and the pins for corrosion. remove the door on the ECM and carefully remove the chip (note which way the notch faces) and verify there's no corrosion. if the chips legs are dirty put them on the edge of a table and clean them with a pencil eraser.

Localized corrosion there can cause all kinds of screwy things. It's a long shot that will fix your problem but it sounds like you need to get back to basics and start trying to verify what's not wrong!

 

[cecil bass]

Just cleaned the pins a hour ago .....still same problem could a flaky stock prom chip or cal pak be the cause?

 

[cecil bass]

I was also wandering if a bad ESC module can cause the car to no register the knock retard..... Is there a way to test the ESC?

 

[earlbrown]

I don't know of a testing procedure for the ESC module other than swapping it with a known good one.

 

[cecil bass]

Is it known if a bad ESC can cause a car to sputter and run poorly?

 

[GNONYX]

How are testing the replacement knock sensor?
Did you already replace the factory MAF with a new factory type or a LT1 sensor and added a translator since it gave you a code 34?
Did you replace the O2 sensor since it gave you a code 13?
What are the Scanmaster readings before replacing these parts and after replacing with new MAF set up?

 

[cecil bass]

How are testing the replacement knock sensor?
Did you already replace the factory MAF with a new factory type or a LT1 sensor and added a translator since it gave you a code 34?
Did you replace the O2 sensor since it gave you a code 13?
What are the Scanmaster readings before replacing these parts and after replacing with new MAF set up?

I haven't replaced the maf yet , but I'm in the process now with that. I may have found something that is causing the problem that I have. I started the car when it was cold and the decimal in the knock retard was blinking and I was getting a reading of the knock. the car ran perfect with no sputtering. when the car warmed up a little bit after driving the decimal stop blinking ,knock quit reading, the car start running like crap again. what does the decimal blinking in the knock retard mean ? all I know is when it stops blinking the car goes back to acting crazy with sputtering. I'm glad to see the car doing something different so I can track down this problem.
Thanks, all

 

[TurboBob]

the LED blinks to indicate open loop mode.

unplug your O2 sensor, reset your ECM, and go for a drive. Report back.

Bob

 

[cecil bass]

OK, I disconnected the o2 ...started it ... It had

the LED blinks to indicate open loop mode.

unplug your O2 sensor, reset your ECM, and go for a drive. Report back.

Bob

OK, I disconnected the o2..... Started it....the car ran it had that lil hiccup idle that it has when it sputters.... Drove a few blocks w/ a bad sputter and code 13 and in open loop that turned on @ about 1/8 mile turn around parked it .... Cut it off .... Started..... It ran perfect around the neighborhood...... Parked it ..... The o2 is still disconnected.......where do I go from here?

 

[cecil bass]

quote="TurboBob, post: 3173048, member: 350"]the LED blinks to indicate open loop mode.

unplug your O2 sensor, reset your ECM, and go for a drive. Report back.

Bob[/quote]
OK, I disconnected the o2..... Started it....the car ran it had that lil hiccup idle that it has when it sputters.... Drove a few blocks w/ a bad sputter and code 13 and in open loop that turned on @ about 1/8 mile.... turn around parked it .... Cut it off .... Started..... It ran perfect around the neighborhood...... Parked it ..... The o2 is still disconnected.......where do I go from here?

 

[TurboBob]

drive it a few more times and make note of how it runs. Just trying to see what (if any) connection there is between the symptom and open or closed loop.

Bob

 

[cecil bass]

Ok i been driving around it seem the car runs good and i can read the knock when the car is cold. When it warms up..... thats when it starts to sputter and have a hiccup idle. It doesnt matter if its in open or closed loop.... what do ya think ?

 

[TurboBob]

ok, so it seems that the sputtering is not related to the open or closed loop.

I have a question, perhaps I need to re-read the thread. But when you say "I can read the knock", what do you mean?

Bob

 

[Pronto]

Cecil, just to be clear here is the instructions for the Scanmaster http://turbotweak.com/scanmasterinstructions.pdf As you see in the intructions, knock shows on the right part of the Scanmaster in "retard degrees". The worse the knock, the more degrees of timing is pulled. That is what is showing, degrees pulled from timing. The higher the number the worse the knock. It should stay 0.0 at start up and driving with no boost, cold and warm. If the tune is good ie; enough octane, enough volume of gas, correct timing there should be no timing retarded drivng around with no boost and then in boost. So how many degrees of timing retard is showing when you start the engine cold? When it starts to sputter does it show any retard or does it go to 0.0? If it's warm when you start it does it show retard?

 

[cecil bass]

Cecil, just to be clear here is the instructions for the Scanmaster http://turbotweak.com/scanmasterinstructions.pdf As you see in the intructions, knock shows on the right part of the Scanmaster in "retard degrees". The worse the knock, the more degrees of timing is pulled. That is what is showing, degrees pulled from timing. The higher the number the worse the knock. It should stay 0.0 at start up and driving with no boost, cold and warm. If the tune is good ie; enough octane, enough volume of gas, correct timing there should be no timing retarded drivng around with no boost and then in boost. So how many degrees of timing retard is showing when you start the engine cold? When it starts to sputter does it show any retard or does it go to 0.0? If it's warm when you start it does it show retard?

It never showed knock ....ever. thats why i got a wrench and tapped on the block ....it only shows the knock when in open loop . When it goes to close Loop I can tap on the block and the scanmaster doesn't show any knock. Can the ESC sensor cause this?