CCCI fuse keeps popping

Vinnyou

New Member
Had this post up before the forum was down. No luck getting to the bottom of it.

I’ve driven the car about 600 miles fine. Then, one day it stalled out on me taking off from a stop light. Turns out the CCCI fuse was blown. Replaced the ignition module and coil pack, it still happens. The car will drive fine, and it seems once it’s up to normal operating temp is when the fuse blows.

I’ve cut the point off the screw in the firewall near the wiring harness as previously suggested. Any other typical spots for frayed or broken wire issues? I can’t visually trace the pink/black wire.. but will try using a multimeter tomorrow.

Also, does the Casper tool work on Wells brand ignition module? I purchased part number DR143, and have the ACdelco coil pack. Don’t plan on touching these again, but maybe with my luck I got a crap part?

Cars an 86 TTYPE. Thanks in advance.
 

Vinnyou

New Member
Thanks for the input guys. I’ve seen that link before when I was searching the forum a while back, and thought it was my issue, but almost positive it can’t be. Like I mentioned this issue first appeared when I was out driving for a while and stalled. I put hundreds of miles on this car before that, so I don’t think the tabs could have shifted randomly? second time it happened was when I was out driving again after I installed a new ignition module. I thought perhaps I could have bent the tabs incorrectly but inspected them and they were okay. After some thought, I thought it could be a bad coil pack, so put that in with a new ignition module, same issue. It’s when my car heats up, it’s shorting somewhere. This intermittent stalling issue is tough to find and leaving me scratching my head.
 

GNVenom

Well-Known Member
No. The cause for the CCCI fuse blowing is usually a bad coil. Sometimes, a bad module.

Almost never, a short in the engine wiring. If that's the case, your harness is in bad shape overall.
 

turbo87adam

Member
I would order a Casper cci hot wire kit. If nothing else it will tell you if the problem is on the factory wiring side of ignition module side of the system.
 

RmvBfrFlght

Well-Known Member
A simple test would be to disconnect the ICM harness connector. Then key-on, engine-off and move the ICM harness around. If the fuse pops the harness has an issue where it is broached and shorting to ground somewhere.

Looking at some wiring diagrams and such, the CCI fuse only goes to the ICM. Mostly for coil power.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 

turbo nasty

Turbo Dojo / MNTR
 

Vinnyou

New Member
A simple test would be to disconnect the ICM harness connector. Then key-on, engine-off and move the ICM harness around. If the fuse pops the harness has an issue where it is broached and shorting to ground somewhere.

Looking at some wiring diagrams and such, the CCI fuse only goes to the ICM. Mostly for coil power.

RemoveBeforeFlight
I did the test you mentioned, wiggled the hell out of the ICM harness, CCCI fuse is fine...

I Inspected the pink/blk wire from the C100 connector just under the wiper motor to the ICM connector, nothing frayed or lodged in it.

Not sure if this is a valid theory, BUT, when the fuse has shorted on me, it’s been when the car is out driving and hot. I thought maybe the pink/blk wire which runs to the CCCI fuse is exposed or frayed somewhere and getting too hot and shorting the circuit? Wasn’t too sure if that’s possible, SO I fired up the engine and let the car idle in my garage for 15 mins and get hot. Fuse didn’t short..

Im also mimicking the ICM wiring configuration that was on the car when I bought it. Maybe that could be causing the issue like pinching wires inside the ICM or too bent tabs like you guys have mentioned... I really don’t believe so just because the amount of miles I drove the car before this issue appeared.

Thoughts? Think I narrowed it down to crappy new ICM and coil pack?

1580061261975.jpeg
 

turbo nasty

Turbo Dojo / MNTR
Check grounds on back of passenger side heads for secure/clean mounting as well as neg from batt to front of head.
 

turbo nasty

Turbo Dojo / MNTR
Thank you, I think you’re right. Is there a visual guide to find these? I’m not finding the battery ground to front of head?
Negative cable from battery...follow to where it mounts to engine

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

SCOOBY DOO

Stock Junk Rules!
For those of you that have a TR that will start when it's cold...but won't start when it gets to operating temperature...or will restart after the engine cools for awhile...this MIGHT be your issue. This was on a locals car I worked on.

 

SS/GN

Well-Known Member
Have a look at the fuel pump and tach leads beside alternator. I have seen them touch metal or get dirt in them,easy check.Leads will be green and brown with no connector in them.
 
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