Complete engine build #2 (stock)

[87we410877]

Here i go again. This time im going 1000% stock restoring my t-type. First up is a few pics of the block fresh from the machine shop. The cylinders all checked out so i just went with a light hone. The deck was pretty coarse (.003") so i had that milled. New brass freeze plugs, durabond cam bearings, boiled and wire wheeled.
Next are some with paint.
Im waiting now on my main and rod bearings, and rings so i can get started. Heads are in the shop getting a valve and seat cut, new springs and new valve guide seals. Enjoy!!!

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

looking to learn.
thanks for this thread.
David

 

[wickedtt]

Which machine shop did the work?:

 

[87we410877]

Engines by Elsassa did the work. Guys names steve. He's been there forever. Knows everything and also did my last motor. They are in Rocky Point.

 

[bison]

Cylinders look pretty good for a light hone. I can hardly see the old ring marks at the top of the cylinders.

 

[Boost231]

looks good. as cheap as the billet caps are i would have atleast did billet centers.

 

[bison]

looks good. as cheap as the billet caps are i would have atleast did billet centers.

I dont think its needed with the stock rebuild. More $ and more chance for a problem with the line bore.

 

[87we410877]

Cylinders look pretty good for a light hone. I can hardly see the old ring marks at the top of the cylinders.

Yea the machinist also said the block was in really good shape. Even though the motors got 172k miles, it was all highway over 100 miles a day and ran Bull Dog diesel oil. The cars been off the road since 1994 so in 7 years he got all that mileage!!

At least someone sees that this is a STOCK rebuild!!! hahah. Thanks alot. more to come.

 

[Boost231]

any update on this STOCK rebuild?

 

[SS_Sean]

I love these posts! Keep it up. :smile:

 

[Boost231]

i always like seeing post like this as well. i love pictures. i would post my build pictures but i cant. the only picture i can post is of it completed once i pick it up in september.

 

[87we410877]

Ok. I got my parts in and started the build. Things i will be replacing are, all gaskets, rings, valve springs, valve guide seals, timing chain and gears, timing chain tensioner, all bearings, main bolts and head bolts.

The first pic is of all the parts. Second is teh block with the upper bearings and teh ARP main studs installed. Third is with the crank and rear main installed and torqued to 100 ft lbs using ARP lube. crank spins nice and free.
The crank looked perfect when removed so no machine work was required. Standard bearings were put back in. The rear main was installed as per the directions on the package with the addition of putting some silicone in the valley where the nails are to be drivin into. I used The Right Stuff silicone as i have herd nothing but good things about it. Silcone was also applied to the mating surface of the block and the rear cap. Next up is ring filing if needed and installation, then rod and piston intallation. Thanks!!!!

 

[marred4life]

nice keep them coming

 

[87we410877]

Going to the home depot now to get some thinner to soak the pistons and rods in.

 

[Boost231]

wow looks good. thanks for posting pics. everyone likes pics.

 

[87we410877]

Wow. Laquer thinner is some good stuff. I pulled off the old rings, broke one in half and cleaned out the grooves real good. It was amazing how much carbon build up was actually in the ring grooves. Then i wire wheeled most the stuff off and soaked em in laquer thinner and brushed with a tooth brush. Next is ring installation. I forgot to ordeer new rod bolts so there might be a delay in the build.

 

[Boost231]

keep um coming. rods bolts should only take a couple of days.

 

[87we410877]

Im about to put my piston rings on and theres no instructions on where to put the gap. Im going to dig up the paper work from my other build and use that. There is a standard way to do it but ide rather do it the buick way. Rule of thumb says stay away from the piston pin and dont line the gaps up and also i believe to keep the gap at the top of the piston. Correct me if im wrong.

ok i found it. sorry for the blurry pic. Top ring gap goes on 90* from wrist pin. Second goes 180* from that. It looks like about 45* on each side of the wrist pin for the oil rings and the oil controll ring goes on either side of the top ring gap 45*.

If the rings need gapping, the will be gapped at .019" for the top, .020"-022" for the second and minimum .015" for the oil rings. Different applications will yeild different ring gaps. Higher HP engines will have larger gaps. Stock was .010"-.020" for both rings but that has prooven to cause top ring wear, blow by, and loss of compression over time. A larger gap in the second ring is the better prooven way and will result in a good sealing long lasting top end. Read about it here. You can search and find lots of info on this topic. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...ne-builders-ring-gap.html?highlight=ring+gaps

 

[Turbo1dr]

Funny how you can stagger all the rings like is shown on that paper but after a few thousand miles some of them line themselves up again.

 

[87we410877]

Funny how you can stagger all the rings like is shown on that paper but after a few thousand miles some of them line themselves up again.

Wow!! thats no good. Maybe i'll sit down with mine and have a talk to keep em in line!! haha.

Heres a pic with the rings all installed. I ended up with .019"-.021" on the tops and .022"-.024" for the second.