Cruz 12-1 crank trigger on ECUGN

[norbs]

It's fine to make things more reliable I agree, as I can see the aftermarket crank sensors are poor quality along with the aftermarket stock Ci3 modules. Timing quality is hard to prove, but in theory it should be better though as you have more resolution.

 

[BEATAV8]

Timing quality is hard to prove, but in theory it should be better though as you have more resolution.

Yep I think so too.

It'll start better and it'll be reliable but that's about it.

I was looking at the old indy car ignition setup in "the book" and noted they used 2 reluctor wheels (which probably explains why stock crank sensors have 2 slots in them?). Makes me wonder what the strategy was for the secondary wheel. It must've been the old school way of determining TDC on cylinder whatever.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Yep I think so too.

It'll start better and it'll be reliable but that's about it.

I was looking at the old indy car ignition setup in "the book" and noted they used 2 reluctor wheels (which probably explains why stock crank sensors have 2 slots in them?). Makes me wonder what the strategy was for the secondary wheel. It must've been the old school way of determining TDC on cylinder whatever.

I'll add to this, I'm fighting crank sensor loss on the 3 tooth now. I've ditched the stock sensor for a hall effect on a custom bracket. It made it better, but it's still there. When it used to lose sync so bad it'd stall, now it'll pop and recover.

Here's the thing: when there's a sync loss tha's recovered from, it's almost a second before the ECUGN feeds all the timing back in If you're on the default settings. During that second, I'm losing time and it'll ruin a run. On the street? it's not a big deal. But when the clock is running it can make you lose.

 

[BEATAV8]

I'll add to this, I'm fighting crank sensor loss on the 3 tooth now. I've ditched the stock sensor for a hall effect on a custom bracket. It made it better, but it's still there. When it used to lose sync so bad it'd stall, now it'll pop and recover.

Here's the thing: when there's a sync loss tha's recovered from, it's almost a second before the ECUGN feeds all the timing back in If you're on the default settings. During that second, I'm losing time and it'll ruin a run. On the street? it's not a big deal. But when the clock is running it can make you lose.

Does your software have this delay feature in it? It's in the newer releases. Might give you some flexibility.

I've had some cars that seemed to be unfixable with the stock style parts. I remember fighting with them endlessly, replacing everything and measuring gaps on each tooth of the reluctor wheel. Making sure they had resistor plugs, suppression wires, diodes on relays, shielding wires, extra grounds, etc etc etc. There were a few that would always run fine until you tried to put some power down and then they would freak the f&ck out. Very frustrating.

Every year at BG watching the cars run, there are more than a few TR's that will pop & fart trying to make a run. I'll see it and hear it and know right away, that dude just lost sync.