Cruz 12-1 crank trigger on ECUGN

[norbs]

It's fine to make things more reliable I agree, as I can see the aftermarket crank sensors are poor quality along with the aftermarket stock Ci3 modules. Timing quality is hard to prove, but in theory it should be better though as you have more resolution.

 

[BEATAV8]

Timing quality is hard to prove, but in theory it should be better though as you have more resolution.

Yep I think so too.

It'll start better and it'll be reliable but that's about it.

I was looking at the old indy car ignition setup in "the book" and noted they used 2 reluctor wheels (which probably explains why stock crank sensors have 2 slots in them?). Makes me wonder what the strategy was for the secondary wheel. It must've been the old school way of determining TDC on cylinder whatever.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Yep I think so too.

It'll start better and it'll be reliable but that's about it.

I was looking at the old indy car ignition setup in "the book" and noted they used 2 reluctor wheels (which probably explains why stock crank sensors have 2 slots in them?). Makes me wonder what the strategy was for the secondary wheel. It must've been the old school way of determining TDC on cylinder whatever.

I'll add to this, I'm fighting crank sensor loss on the 3 tooth now. I've ditched the stock sensor for a hall effect on a custom bracket. It made it better, but it's still there. When it used to lose sync so bad it'd stall, now it'll pop and recover.

Here's the thing: when there's a sync loss tha's recovered from, it's almost a second before the ECUGN feeds all the timing back in If you're on the default settings. During that second, I'm losing time and it'll ruin a run. On the street? it's not a big deal. But when the clock is running it can make you lose.

 

[BEATAV8]

I'll add to this, I'm fighting crank sensor loss on the 3 tooth now. I've ditched the stock sensor for a hall effect on a custom bracket. It made it better, but it's still there. When it used to lose sync so bad it'd stall, now it'll pop and recover.

Here's the thing: when there's a sync loss tha's recovered from, it's almost a second before the ECUGN feeds all the timing back in If you're on the default settings. During that second, I'm losing time and it'll ruin a run. On the street? it's not a big deal. But when the clock is running it can make you lose.

Does your software have this delay feature in it? It's in the newer releases. Might give you some flexibility.

I've had some cars that seemed to be unfixable with the stock style parts. I remember fighting with them endlessly, replacing everything and measuring gaps on each tooth of the reluctor wheel. Making sure they had resistor plugs, suppression wires, diodes on relays, shielding wires, extra grounds, etc etc etc. There were a few that would always run fine until you tried to put some power down and then they would freak the f&ck out. Very frustrating.

Every year at BG watching the cars run, there are more than a few TR's that will pop & fart trying to make a run. I'll see it and hear it and know right away, that dude just lost sync.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Does your software have this delay feature in it? It's in the newer releases. Might give you some flexibility.

View attachment 408733

I've had some cars that seemed to be unfixable with the stock style parts. I remember fighting with them endlessly, replacing everything and measuring gaps on each tooth of the reluctor wheel. Making sure they had resistor plugs, suppression wires, diodes on relays, shielding wires, extra grounds, etc etc etc. There were a few that would always run fine until you tried to put some power down and then they would freak the f&ck out. Very frustrating.

Every year at BG watching the cars run, there are more than a few TR's that will pop & fart trying to make a run. I'll see it and hear it and know right away, that dude just lost sync.

Yeah, I've been all over that panel making adjustments. I've got it about as good as I can get it. It's behaving exactly like you describe and I've been through it top to bottom. My Xmas present to myself this year is the 12-1.

The thing about the delay after loss is I don't want it ramping back in too fast. The Sync loss cuts torque, but having it slam back in instantly can upset the car and I'm OK with losing if the alternative is hitting the wall.

 

[turbomark]

OK, I finally got the TR6 ignition module deleted, Turbo Tweak adapter harness installed and adjusted the ECUGN settings. Car runs fine as it should. I'll try to get to completing the crank trigger setup this week with your previous input....I'll let you know how it works out...

TIA

 

[turbomark]

That's 90 degrees.

Should look like this example (if you have a truck coil installed - this example is for a truck coil).
This one is trimmed to 91.5 degrees based on what the timing light showed during fixed advance evaluation.
View attachment 408629

Ok, I have a question..... The setup for the truck coil said to use Ignition Input Capture on Falling Edge, which is where my settings are now. Do I need to change back to Rising Edge for the new 12-1 trigger?

 

[BEATAV8]

Ok, I have a question..... The setup for the truck coil said to use Ignition Input Capture on Falling Edge, which is where my settings are now. Do I need to change back to Rising Edge for the new 12-1 trigger?

Yes

 

[turbomark]

So here's my composite log. Cam sensor is still in the stock position.
The way I read this is that I need to advance the cam sensor about 70 degrees to put it just in front of the #11 magnet. That would mean I need to rotate the cam sensor 35 degrees ccw to put it where it should be.

Am I right..??

Mark.

 

[BEATAV8]

So here's my composite log. Cam sensor is still in the stock position.
The way I read this is that I need to advance the cam sensor about 70 degrees to put it just in front of the #11 magnet. That would mean I need to rotate the cam sensor 35 degrees ccw to put it where it should be.

Am I right..??

Mark.

Yep that’s right.
You want to be well between 10 & 11. not so close to 11 that there’s a chance of timing chain slop letting it go past 11 where it could end up in the big gap.
When you’re done the VVT angle will be 175-185 degrees when the engine is running. 185 being more advanced than 175.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Turbo6inky, I had a few issues similar to you, after the 12-1 and Cruz Cam those pop/stumble/stall issues are gone. Then the tip in tweaks really woke up the car but my random stalls or blips all disappeared after the 12-1 for sure, none since vs literally every drive a stubble issue. I didn't drive on just the Cruz Cam long enough to say but both fixed issues, worth all dollars and time by Steve D.

 

[turbomark]

OK, so here's a new composite log with the cam sensor advanced. Its about 10 degrees ahead of the #11 magnet. Look ok.....?

Ready to check the cranking timing, right?