Engine block back from shop...check out the cam bearings!!!

[bmackinnon]

Looks fantastic! I would ****can the volt booster, however... :wink:

 

[aminga]

One of 'em sends the temp info to the ecm, and can't be removed.... I 'think' that is the one.... someone who knows for sure will chime in, but make certain because you will likely want to resolve that issue while the motor is still out.... i'll search around and see if I can find the definitive answer....

edit: that location is all good, idiot lite will be non-functional.... quote from one of my own posts:

"There are 3 temp sender/switches on the intake...

1) hi-temp fan overide switch (top of intake, behind AC compressor),

2) temp sensor for data to the ecm (front of intake, on the rite looking from the front), and

3) 'hot' idiot lite temp switch (front of intake, directly to the left of the upper rad hose)... you can use this one for a gage sender location (adapter may be required) but of course you lose the idiot lite functionality... this is where my mech. temp gage sender is installed... some people 't' a gage sensor in here also, so as to retain the idiot lite, but it's kinda cheesy with a 't' connection and not that easy to fit it all in there as I recall.."

Nope that one is the idiot light

 

[pmoore4321]

Looks fantastic! I would ****can the volt booster, however... :wink:

I probably will, but I am trying to eliminate any glitches I might encounter getting it running. I also have a TT chip, but I am going to fire it with the old Red Armstrong chip installed just to eliminate possible problems.

Now I have to track down my A/C bolts. They are hiding around here somewhere.

 

[pmoore4321]

I hit the starter and BOOM the engine fired right off on the first crank!

The oil and water gauges I added to the A-pillar work perfect!

I just want to say THANKS to all the people who chimed in on this build. There is absolutely no way I could have done this without this forum.

I still need to put the IC fan on and tidy up the wiring to the new gauge senders, but I am on "cloud 9" right now for sure.

THANKS AGAIN TO ALL THOSE FOLKS ON HERE THAT HELPED ME OUT!

 

[charlief1]

Congrats on getting her going again. Take it out for a spin and see how she does now.

 

[pmoore4321]

Thanks. I still need to do a few things. The downpipe to to turbo is leaking. I put my hand over the joint and can feel the exhaust puff. Do I need a gasket? I thought someone said just use hi-temp silicone.

Another thing. I put everything together and saved the crank sensor for last. I started tightening the bolt that holds the sensor and it was stripped! All I did is get a nut that fit the screw and there was enough "tail" on the end that I could reach up and hold the nut on it while tightening. Worked perfect and if I was to do another build I would drill out the threads and JB Weld a nut on the top of the crank sensor clamp.

Vacuum/boost gauge is not working either. I think i pinched the tubing when putting together the gauge pillar.

 

[ThikStik]

Good to hear your oil pressure /bearing clearances are tight. Precision Machine here in Birmingham gave me 3-5 thou on conn rods...guess they didnt like me telling them to please give me tight clearances. they also knocked over my polished stock crank and then insisted I pay for a grind job. Absolute fools are out there in the machine shop biz.

 

[LOT]

I'm curious about your 55 psi oil pressure

Thanks. I still need to do a few things. The downpipe to to turbo is leaking. I put my hand over the joint and can feel the exhaust puff. Do I need a gasket? I thought someone said just use hi-temp silicone.

Another thing. I put everything together and saved the crank sensor for last. I started tightening the bolt that holds the sensor and it was stripped! All I did is get a nut that fit the screw and there was enough "tail" on the end that I could reach up and hold the nut on it while tightening. Worked perfect and if I was to do another build I would drill out the threads and JB Weld a nut on the top of the crank sensor clamp.

Vacuum/boost gauge is not working either. I think i pinched the tubing when putting together the gauge pillar.

When EXACTLY are you seeing 55 psi?

 

[pmoore4321]

Looks like 60 lbs when I have it at idle which is all I have done so far.

Disregard the mixed up plug wires and all the other stuff I have not hooked up. I have not adjusted anything. I am sure the fuel pressure is off because I disassembled the regulator to clean it up.

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idjHmcwh7Sw[/YOUTUBE]

 

[pmoore4321]

Good to hear your oil pressure /bearing clearances are tight. Precision Machine here in Birmingham gave me 3-5 thou on conn rods...guess they didnt like me telling them to please give me tight clearances. they also knocked over my polished stock crank and then insisted I pay for a grind job. Absolute fools are out there in the machine shop biz.

Yeah, I guess you read about my machine shop woes. I checked my clearances so many times that I ran through three packs of Plastigauge. I made sure to stay within the clearances listed in the service manual.

At any rate, it is running really well from what I can tell. Hope I get more than 500 miles out of it, but who knows. I still need to set the IAC, TPS, etc.

After reading about all the problems with the AC oil filters I ran by NAPA today and picked up a couple of Gold filters.

 

[pmoore4321]

These cars sure run a whole lot better when you have the vacuum lines hooked up! The boost gauge works better also.

I need to pay attention to details!

 

[GBGN1]

So what machine shop did you go to for the motor work(cam bearings)?ILL make sure not to go there.
Thanks

 

[pmoore4321]

I can't remember the name, but it is on the North Loop East between Fulton and Irvington. If it wasn't for the cam bearings, I would have been OK with the deal. I understand mistakes happen, but sometimes you just have to admit you screwed up.

I have the car running perfect and I put about 30 miles on it this weekend. I still need to put a headliner in and I hope I can make the Coffee and Cars in June.

 

[EVIL]

How is she running?

D

 

[GBGN1]

Still fighting some gremlins! Hope soon

 

[pmoore4321]

Around this same time last year, I did an oil change and found glitter in the oil. I assumed the engine was doomed so I bought a short block off a board member. I decided I would just drive the car until the motor blew up and then replace it. I drove the hell out of it waiting for the motor to start knocking. It never did.

I then decided I wanted to take the GN on Power Tour. This forced me to swap out the short blocks, which I did. I made the GN my daily driver for a month or so to ensure it would make the Tour. Curiosity got the best of me one day and I tore down the "bad" motor. What did I find wrong? Absolutely nothing. All the bearings looked like brand new. I have no idea where the glitter in the oil came from, but it damn sure didn't come from any of the bearings.

 

[charlief1]

Most likely a flat tappet cam.

 

[pmoore4321]

I don't see how that could be? The motor was not bad when I rebuilt it and I went with a roller cam. There was at least three oil changes before the glitter appeared.

 

[ek02]

I have seen what looks like silver dust in the oil filter on my engines on the first oil change. It is non metalic. I think it may just be whatever the bearings are coated with. As long as there is nothing that will stick to a magnet, and no big pieces, I would say it is normal. I cut open the filter on my wife's new Honda on the first oil change. It was perfectly clean. Makes me wonder how they put them together so perfectly.

 

[earlbrown]

When I had a stock replacement timing set (with no nylon) I used to get glittery oil filters and afros on my drain plug. That set lasted 100,000 miles and didn't take out the bottom end.