Call Weber
Engine Failure
- Thread starter Nigel
- Start date
Call Weber
depends,there is internal and external.
I understand the crank will have to be checked and balanced, my question is are the dimensions correct to use a modified for internal balance stock balancer or a TA balancer, will the flywheel flange be correct so a stock spec bolt pattern flywheel bolts right up.
I will probably contact weber as they mention this on there web site for the flywheel.
Use a 4l60 transmission. Bolts right up. Then you have to some fabrication to make the fit and work. I believe there is an adaptor plate to mount 3800 to 4l80. Could be wrong there. GBGN1 is using a 4l60. I don't Nigel is interested anyway. If I get the funds, I would do it. But I have a guy who is damn good at fabrication. BTW, I still owe you some measurements for fasteners.
Sorry Nigel, I'm not trying to hijack your thread. Good luck with your rebuild and getting your car back on the road.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Earl, they have the same pattern.
A 4L60E may have different bellhsg depths, depending on it's original app. The hsg bolts on, so it can be changed, if necessary.
Some early 60's were 1 piece case, and are pretty much junk.
The 80E is a one piece case, w/ a bolt on rear hsg, and is basically a 400 w/ od.
Some 80's used crank spacers, depending on the yr/application. Some were behind engines w/ a longer crank.
Anyone doing the swap should be sure of the combo, prior to ordering a converter, flex plate.
Also, when buying a 80, try to get the converter cover. Some were cast alum, and are difficult to find. There are different cover bolt patterns, too.
ttypewhite
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2001
I would spend a little more up front even if it meant having the car sit down longer. Look in the for sale section on this board. Good deals on forged stock short blocks can be had. I would advise you look for a forged rotating assembly at the very least to ensure that this level of carnage is minimized in the future. Stock parts have proven to be good components back in the day, but 30+ years on anything takes it toll, and this isn't a expense that you want to play again. Good luck getting it back together. Be patient and make the right choices, not the right now choices.
I hear ya, that is good advice.
I am going to contact Weber, as it looks like based on the web site they check the crank to make sure everything fits.
No Problem.
Everybody that builds an engine (correctly) does that.
I get it, but does everybody that sells the crank make sure it is right before they ship it?
marleyskater420
still needs to learn
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2004
you can't check if it fits unless you have your block in their hands...
I mean..think about it...how would you possibly know if a crank fits perfectly if you don't have the block and bearings in-hand?
And wouldn't it really be the rods that you need to make sure to see if they have to be clearanced?
What exactly are you making sure "fits" about the crank? I mean what good crank needs enough modifications done to it to be worried that it won't "fit"?
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
When I have my engines built, I have the crank magnafluxed and checked for straight...and then the whole rotating assembly is balanced. The block is degreased, magnafluxed and the mains are checked. I have each main checked on the outsides and insides at 12, 3, 6 and 9'oclock. If each point isn't bang on the money...then the block is align honed/bored. Boring is better...as most of the meat can be taken from the caps...instead of the block. You can't just drop a crank in a block...cross your fingers...and hope for the best. Plus/minus tolerances have to be taken into consideration to set your bearing clearances...so your builder and machinist have to work together.
Just to be clear, my original question was (everyone can look back and see) I expect a stock or TA balancer to fit and I expect the flywheel to bolt up with no modifications when the crank is received. I also expect the journals to meet the correct dimensions. While clearances will/may need adjustment, I don't expect to have to turn a new crank. I appreciate the information on how to machine/assemble, but that was not the question. I am already set on a source.
Just for information, when the crank broke, it took out the transmission pump, flywheel, assuming the converter is junk, the timing cover, cam sprocket, slinger, balancer, water pump, pulleys, all of the rods/ most of the pistons(assuming all), and annihilated the block. I know we have members like Bison and Forcfed who have gotten more out of a stock shortblock, but that obviously is not my forte.
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
Nigel, don't beat yourself up. It was bad luck...plain and simple. Could happen to anyone.
Thanks Scooby, will post on progress for rebuild. Will take some time.
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