Got engine out and apart now questions

[1sickmx6]

I pulled the engine out of my 87 TR today and was exspecting to see a spun bearing but instead when I took the valve covers off one of the orange plastic rocker arm retainers had broken and fallen off. The noise I heard when I ran the car sounded like a spun bearing but it would only happen at low rpms and seemed like on decel, could that have been the noise? I took all the rod bearings out today and none of them looked really bad and the crank still looks good. (I will post pics of the bearings later)

Second question do you guys think I could get the crank polished and just put a new set of bearings and seals in and be fine to run again? (providing it specs out)

Was considering just cleaning up the block arp stuff, oil pump, cover and new bearings and maybe new rings. I can still see the cross hatching on the cylinders and there is no lip. I will have pics of everything up by tomorrow but where do you guys think I should go with this?

Thanks Brandon!

 

[Boost231]

yup that could do it for sure. also the crank yes you could do that but if the crank looks good just put new bearings in it.

 

[Nick Micale]

I would not use ARP bolts on the rods unless you have them re-sized and fitted for the bolts.

The main cap bolts can and should be reused if you are not going to have the block line honed.

New rings REQUIRE the cylinder bores be at least honed.

 

[1sickmx6]

ya I knew about the honing if I wanted to use new rings but I don't even think I would bother doing that for this block. I would like to keep it pretty stock. So your saying to use ARP rod bolts or main studs I should resize the rods for the bolts and if I use the main studs I have to aling hone? a fastener is a fastener is it not? I mean they are supposed to be stronger but??? I could maybe see the rods bolts because of the way they are designed but the mains?

Thanks guys keep the imput coming.

 

[Nick Micale]

ya ....I don't even think I would bother doing that for this block. I would like to keep it pretty stock. So your saying to use ARP rod bolts or main studs I should resize the rods for the bolts and if I use the main studs I have to aling hone? a fastener is a fastener is it not? I mean they are supposed to be stronger but??? I could maybe see the rods bolts because of the way they are designed but the mains?....

Why do I even bother to repond to you guys?

Do it however you want.

After a few hundred Buick V-6 rebuilds, just thought I would offer some help, but you want to debate, I don't.

 

[bison]

ya I knew about the honing if I wanted to use new rings but I don't even think I would bother doing that for this block. I would like to keep it pretty stock. So your saying to use ARP rod bolts or main studs I should resize the rods for the bolts and if I use the main studs I have to aling hone? a fastener is a fastener is it not? I mean they are supposed to be stronger but??? I could maybe see the rods bolts because of the way they are designed but the mains?

Thanks guys keep the imput coming.

Your killing us bro. Nick stated that IF you were to use the ARP rod bolts you Should and need to get the big end re-sized. I dont think they are necessary and have never seen a bolt failure in one of these. IF you use different fasteners on the mains YOU NEED A LINE HONE. If not then re-bearing and re-assemble with the original fasteners to the factory spec. 40 ft lbs rods and 100 on the mains. Both with the threads and underside of the bolt head coated with 30W oil. The main caps are the weak point not the fasteners.

 

[ChavoLC2]

Fastners

Nick is trying to help you out and save you future headaches. For the time being I'd listen to his advise and use the fastners that you have put them back in the same rod/mains that you took em out. Replace your rod bearings and Use the same main cap bolts and rod bolts and torque them to factory specs. Do not use ARP at this time you aren't going to gain anything. Why ask questions if you have the answers, In your defense you probably wanted him to explain his reasonong.

 

[1sickmx6]

I was not arguing with anyone there. I just wanted to know the reasoning behind it? I have no exsperince with buick blocks and I know that. I have put together lots of other motor mainly imports and have used arp products without having problems. If Nick says that there is going to be a problem than I won't bother to use them. Sorry to have disturbed anyone, I am just trying to learn.

I don't plan on pushing this motor as hard as most of the people on here are. I am just trying to make this motor back stock so I can drive the car next year.

Should I take the crank out than or just spec it out in the block and if it checks out just change the bearings?

PS I am just excited to have the car that I always wanted to own!

Thanks Brandon!

 

[johnnyttype]

I pulled the engine out of my 87 TR today and was exspecting to see a spun bearing but instead when I took the valve covers off one of the orange plastic rocker arm retainers had broken and fallen off. The noise I heard when I ran the car sounded like a spun bearing but it would only happen at low rpms and seemed like on decel, could that have been the noise? I took all the rod bearings out today and none of them looked really bad and the crank still looks good. (I will post pics of the bearings later) QUOTE]

ive had a broken plastic retainer before and i dont remember it make any noise but i guess that could vary from car to car.

if the car sounds like it is knocking more on decel couldn't that indicate a cracked or loose flexplate?

 

[bison]

I was not arguing with anyone there. I just wanted to know the reasoning behind it? I have no exsperince with buick blocks and I know that. I have put together lots of other motor mainly imports and have used arp products without having problems. If Nick says that there is going to be a problem than I won't bother to use them. Sorry to have disturbed anyone, I am just trying to learn.

I don't plan on pushing this motor as hard as most of the people on here are. I am just trying to make this motor back stock so I can drive the car next year.

Should I take the crank out than or just spec it out in the block and if it checks out just change the bearings?

PS I am just excited to have the car that I always wanted to own!

Thanks Brandon!

For your goals you dont need more than the stock fasteners or anything in the bottom end. As long as the bearings were good and there are no grooves in the crank you can have it polished and re-bearing the engine. Blue print the oil pump and be clean on re-assembly and your good to go. Fwiw the bottom end of the engine in the black car in my sig has nothing aftermarket at all in it except the front and rear seals. Make sure there is no detonation and the engine will live a very long time. Follow advise about oil additives on this board also. Something is needed if you have a flat cam in it.

 

[DavzGN]

If you throw in new rings without honing the cylinders, the rings won't seat properly causing excessive blowby and/or burning of oil.

HTH
David

 

[Boost231]

light honing is required when doing rings but i dont think you need to go that far.