Header Bolt Torque Specs when using gaskets?

[1KWIKSIX]

I've got some TA headers installed and with FelPro 1400 gaskets.

Just need to torque them down to spec & button things up.

The factory header bolt torque spec shows 37 ft-lbs torque (but factory did not use a gasket).........just wondering if this would be the same when using the FelPro 1400's or not?

I know when using the RemFlex gaskets that you are not to exceed approx. 15 ft-lbs torque.

Thanks,

dave

 

[BEATAV8]

I went 37 ft*lbs on mine with T/A headers / 1400's and iron heads.
Then you have to retorque after the first or second heat cycle. They loosen up quite a bit. Then check again after another few heat cycles.

Also check the clamps on the cross over after some heat cycles.

When I switched to aluminum heads I took it a bit easier. Probably not necesary, but I only went to 32 ft*lbs. Same headers and 1400 gaskets with some hi temp anti-seize on the threads.

 

[novaderrik]

get them tight with a ratchet.. if they loosen up and leak, make them tight again.. no need for any special torque setting..

 

[turbofabricator]

Tights, tight.
German torque value........"Gooten tight"
Tights, tight......too tights, broke.
I never use a torque wrench on header or intake manifold bolts. But then again, I've torqued litterally MILLIONS of bolts in my 38 years of building things. So you develop the "feel" for proper torque I DO use a torque wrench on just about every bolt/nut/screw on aircraft, though. (and have to record every wrench I do use.) Airplanes are so dang tedious to work on.

 

[S10xGN]

Worst (well, maybe not the worst) mistake I ever made was adding exhaust gaskets when they weren't needed. They blew out less than 100 miles later causing me a week's worth of work. Get the flanges milled and/or cut separations in them and use a little high-temp RTV.

 

[Nick Micale]

I've got some TA headers installed and with FelPro 1400 gaskets.
Just need to torque them down to spec & button things up.................dave

There are many good comments here, but since there are MANY variables, you still do not have one good answer to your post.

The stock header flange and the TA flange are much different, as the TA one is much thicker and should NOT be cut or separated.

Many other variables are gasket material, fasteners -stock or aftermarket bolts/studs, heads iron or alum, and the headers themselves.

The stock headers work well with no gasket and the factory no-loosen bolt with captured lock washers. Add gaskets here, just be SURE to re-torque after a heat cycle, and check often. This is true whenever a header, or turbo gasket is used.

For alum heads, it is best to use studs and flanged nuts to lessen pulling threads out of the heads. My experience also has shown a copper header gasket with red, high temp silicone works best for no leaks, and they can be re-used many times.

The bolts supplied with TA headers make it easier to install with the 3/8" 12 point heads, but the small head surface will not provide enough friction to hold it in place when the gaskets take a set. You MUST re-torque and often check to keep them tight. A good option is to use the stock header exhaust bolts.

 

[A2000RICH]

There are many good comments here, but since there are MANY variables, you still do not have one good answer to your post.

The stock header flange and the TA flange are much different, as the TA one is much thicker and should NOT be cut or separated.

Many other variables are gasket material, fasteners -stock or aftermarket bolts/studs, heads iron or alum, and the headers themselves.

The stock headers work well with no gasket and the factory no-loosen bolt with captured lock washers. Add gaskets here, just be SURE to re-torque after a heat cycle, and check often. This is true whenever a header, or turbo gasket is used.

For alum heads, it is best to use studs and flanged nuts to lessen pulling threads out of the heads. My experience also has shown a copper header gasket with red, high temp silicone works best for no leaks, and they can be re-used many times.

The bolts supplied with TA headers make it easier to install with the 3/8" 12 point heads, but the small head surface will not provide enough friction to hold it in place when the gaskets take a set. You MUST re-torque and often check to keep them tight. A good option is to use the stock header exhaust bolts.

nick you might want to add that those factory bolts works best when they are not distorted---------if you press the nut against the washer and turn it it should produce an audible clicking sound and resist turning-------its the serrations that enable it to lock in place--------more often than not i find that the locking ability is diminished due to numerous uses---------i made a reforming die and put it in a press and reform them to the original shape and they work like new

 

[BEATAV8]

Nick,
Does anyone make a handy dandy stud kit for the TA headers? I was worried about pulling the threads on my aluminum heads, hence the reduced torque compared to the irons.

 

[big reazon]

Make your own studs some all thread and nuts

 

[Nick Micale]

Make your own studs some all thread and nuts

All-thread is like Grade 3 material, we use set screws which are much stronger and makes installation and removal much simpler.

Steve, I have done a few stud kit sets, let me know by e-mail if you are interested.