How do you remove Turbo exhaust housing ???? Stuck .

[dynoman]

I'm in the process of replacing the .85 AR Precision housing on my TE45A to a Garrett .63 AR and having trouble separating the housing from the center section . Are there any tricks to do this ?? I have it on the bench with center section straight up and I put Kroil all around the joint . Any help would be appreciated . Thanks , Sam

 

[bison]

When the heat shield is seized to the exhaust housing it's easiest to remove the compressor nut and drop the exhaust housing and turbine out. Then you can cut the heat shield out of the housing with a carbide burr. You will need a new heat shield for re-assembly. Don't forget to mark the shaft to wheel orientation to maintain balance. The Garrett .63 is a step in the wrong direction imo. You should be looking for a larger turbine with your combo. There's a lot of power to be had with more turbine.


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[dynoman]

Brian , I was changing the housing Because of slow spool up . It has been suggested that the .85 AR is hurting me there and my 60' is at 2.0 . I'm currently running Husek's 3021 converter with Pro Plus built trans and that was the only change from an old 9/11 lu . I had 1.6 60' times before my trans started slipping on the 2-3 shift . Would I be better off with a converter change to Dave's 3521 ??

 

[Nick Micale]

Keep soaking it with Kroil and heat the housing with a torch, and of course lots of patience!

It appears you have an awesome street build and I have done 1/2 dozen of these street killer builds the past few months similar to your's, and all have a TE-45A with a Garrett housing!

I know Bison is all about lots of HP, but the Garrett housing is awesome on the street.

When you are on the street again, let me know how your combo works with Dave's converter as I have been discussing how well it will work, and your combo is a good test ground.

I would think your car should run easy mid-10's with traction, which should be better with the Garrett housing.

 

[bison]

Brian , I was changing the housing Because of slow spool up . It has been suggested that the .85 AR is hurting me there and my 60' is at 2.0 . I'm currently running Husek's 3021 converter with Pro Plus built trans and that was the only change from an old 9/11 lu . I had 1.6 60' times before my trans started slipping on the 2-3 shift . Would I be better off with a converter change to Dave's 3521 ??

I'd be looking elsewhere if spoolup slow. You shouldn't be running a Garrett .63 at the level you're at. I ran .85 on everything in the last 10 years that I ran in my own cars. 1.38 60' with minimal suspension work. Launch rpm between 3800 and 4000. When it hits 4100 even in lousy air it will go to full boost in less than half a second. This is with 93/alky and a lazy timing curve. I can't get aggressive with the timing on ramp in or it will detonate. With e85 you should have considerably more exhaust energy and a much higher detonation threshold. Send me a couple data logs of spoolup if you want my opinion.

 

[V6sleeper]

"Subscribed" for the tested new combo results....

 

[TTA976]

I am with Bison 100% ...running a .63 on a TE45A (T66) is not a good setup. You will need to keep the rpm under 5500 with that small ex housing. Nick's done it and done it well.. but controlling boost will be easier with a larger housing as well. Lot of back pressure with that tiny housing on a engine like yours Sam...All that exhaust energy and nowhere to go but thru a .63 lol... GM used .63 with a much smaller turbo from the factory on the stock TB/GN.
* If you need the put .63 on a T66 to help spool up, it's not the right turbo for you.

Joe

 

[robzombie]

I will go with Nick on this one and my setup is close to the Op with the exception of E85 and a 3,500 stall converter.

Low tens can be had with the right tune. With the stall he has [3,000] he can drop his 60' if he tunes it better or finds someone who can.

I fattened the fuel curve in first and second to slow spool to keep from spinning on the street and welcomed the slight lag because I would go from 10lbs. to 26 lbs. in less than a second around 3,500 rpm.

I ran both a precision housing and the garrett, the garrett is better on the street and at the track on my car.

I would test both if you can and see for yourself which one works for you best. I would also upgrade to a 3521 from Dave and you will never look back. If you want to keep the .85 housing the 3521 is a must anyways as you aren't building enough B/P to spool it at 3,000 rpm. I bet that if you watch the tach you are hitting the boost around 38 to 4,000 rpm depending on timing and how fat the fuel curve is set.

Call Dave and he will set you straight and confirm it. Nick has done it a million times also. Don't buy into the hype of having to have the latest billet this and BB that.

The TE45A is a proven street killer turbo and tuning is still the most important aspect of going fast. Just buying the latest and greatest isn't going to do it, especially if you can't tune it.

 

[TTA976]

A 66mm turbo low end will always suffer. Jam it in a tiny .63 housing and make the same power up top as a 60mm later on the power band.lmao

 

[dynoman]

After closer inspection I noticed that the info I got with the car was wrong !! I have a .63 AR Precision housing , not an .85 AR . I finally got the housing loose and could spin it , but it would not come off . I got it boxed up and ready to ship to Limit Engineering with a new .63 Garrett housing to be installed . If that doesn't work I can always switch back and go another route . Thanks for the input , Sam