You can type here any text you want

How much cam are you 9-sec 109 guys using ?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

yullose

Certified Gun Nut
Joined
Apr 9, 2005
Messages
1,477
Obviously a solid roller is the way to go for max performance... but since I will still be driving my car on the street occasionally, I plan to keep a hyd roller in it. I've run solid rollers on some wild Chevy big blocks in the past, so a solid roller isn't *entirely* out of the question. :D

My question is... how much is too much ?

I was thinking about pulling the 214/214 out and replacing it with something around 220-230 @ .050.

Future plans include a TH400 and loose converter... so don't entirely gage your response by what my sig says. ;)
Sofar, I've got the 70GTQ installed, along with a set of 83's... A front mount IC is on the way and Eric is burning me a C16 chip for this combo.
 
214/214 will get you there. I had a 212/212 flat tappet and went 10.20 @ 131mph with a loose converter and bad sixty foots. I know it could have ran in the 9's with a better match up with my converter selection, but pulled the cam and went hydr roller 218/224 and tightened up my converter to actually see my first 9 sec slip. 210/210 hydr roller will also get the job done.
 
I would not remove the 214/214 out of it. I went 9.98 with that cam and a very loose converter. With a PTC converter the car could have easily run some 9.70s.
 
So how well did that idle in Melissa's car ? :cool:

actually it didn't really idle that bad.. we had the motor in her old WE4 that we used as a winter beater :eek:
 

Attachments

  • wbeater1.JPG
    wbeater1.JPG
    38.8 KB · Views: 1,045
If you really want the right cam for your combo call Dan at DLS and have one ground for your combo. You don't need big cams to go mid 9's.
 
Imo if your building a stock block you should build around a hydraulic and keep the rpm down to help keep the bottom end alive. If your dead set on a solid you could use a set of solid lifters on a hydraulic build and set the lash tight. If you built tangential 4 bolted and steel rotating assembly you should be able to run a moderate hydraulic roller and run 9.50-9.6 with it reliably. You really need to pick a turbo that will perform around the boost and engine speed you will be running. Then the torque converter has to be a perfect match. Any one of the things i mentioned left out and the car will be a turd like a lot of the ones on this board based on the parts in the sig. Dont ever try to "grow" into a turbo, torque converter, or cam. Anyone of those mis-selected and it will hurt performance a bunch at those intended power levels. Its always better to be a little smaller and work it harder than go too big and try to catch up with the rest of the build.
 
OK...

NOW that the motor is out of the car and apart for head repairs... Does that change anyone's camshaft opinion ? ;)

I understand that it wouldn't make sense to go to any effort to change it, if the motor was in the car and running... but now that it's out of the car, the temptation to fool with it is pretty severe. :D

And FWIW... I don't want to "just dip into the 9's", I want to go high 9's on a bad day. ;)

Nick, I assume you picked this cam with Jim's needs in mind.... I'd like to take this car to the next level if possible. :cool:
 
dls 224-224 here

Those are the numbers that I 'sorta had in mind.

The shortblock is pretty stout... so I'm not worried about RPM's too much.

I'm even tossing around the idea of switching to a solid roller...

My biggest concern is keeping head gaskets on it. :D
 
Those are the numbers that I 'sorta had in mind.

The shortblock is pretty stout... so I'm not worried about RPM's too much.

I'm even tossing around the idea of switching to a solid roller...

My biggest concern is keeping head gaskets on it. :D

IMHO... don't pick a big cam and then not turn the motor the RPM's it needs/wants...... that would be giving up allot of power.

If you pick a 6400 RPM cam.... make sure everything else is going to be happy at 6400 RPM's.... heads and converter mainly..... like Bison said... it is a match set.... and IMHO... if you do pick all the stuff for 6400 RPM.... and only shift at 5300 RPM..... you just wasted time and money.

HTH
 
IMHO... don't pick a big cam and then not turn the motor the RPM's it needs/wants...... that would be giving up allot of power.

If you pick a 6400 RPM cam.... make sure everything else is going to be happy at 6400 RPM's.... heads and converter mainly..... like Bison said... it is a match set.... and IMHO... if you do pick all the stuff for 6400 RPM.... and only shift at 5300 RPM..... you just wasted time and money.

HTH


Well, lemme put it to ya this way... ;)

I'm either going to max out this little 231 and scream the pi$$ out of it, or I'm 'gonna sell it off and turbo the small block chevy motor I have here in the garage.
I've built countless Chevy motors, some running low-8's... but never tweaked a Buick motor beyond simple bolt-ons and high-10's.

This is where I need some decision-making assistance. ;)

I keep seeing these TSM/TSO times, and I want to know what these guys are doing... to go 140mph+ in 1320ft. Hell, if it's super-secret-squirrel combos, just PM me some ideas. I'm not running in any of those races... ever. Just a nice quick, stock looking GN is all I'm after... and 10's ain't gonna cut it.
:D
 
Thanks for the suggestions fellas...

I've swapped a few emails with DLS Dan recently... picking his brain.

We are working on something...

I also just called Comp Cams and had them email me the specs on my current cam. Apparently it was a custom grind, so no info was available on the website. They had to look it up over the phone.

It looks pretty nice... and may just stay in the motor unless Dan suggests otherwise. :D

Edit to add...

After looking at the cam card, Dan said leave it in the motor... :D
 

Attachments

  • GN cam specs.JPG
    GN cam specs.JPG
    52.1 KB · Views: 489
No idea who it was I talked to there... I just gave him the numbers off the back of my cam and he emailed me the specs for it... The cam was already in the car when I bought it... but I had no card with it... so I was unsure exactly what it was.

Now that I know what cam I have... I will leave it in the motor. It was obviously a good choice to begin with.

All opinions sofar, including Dan at DLS is that it's plenty to go 9.50's-9.70's @ 135-140mph.

It's just one less thing I need to buy to go back together and get running again. :cool:
 
Back
Top