LC1 install getting #8 error code. Faulty 02?

I don't understad why so many problems with this. Mine has worked flawlesly for a couple years now.

Have you tried to reset the controller? Unplug the o2 from the harness then power up the controller (turn key on) for 60 seconds. Turn key back off, re connect the sensor then re calibrate.

They say don't wait for senor to heat to start the car. It's better for the exhaust to heat up with the sensor.

Are you running a gasket from the turbo to the downpipe? Make sure your downpipe is not for some reason isolated. It should have a good ground to the motor.

Where is the controller located?

An AFR of 22.1 is normal during heat up.
 
TurboBuRick said:
I don't understad why so many problems with this. Mine has worked flawlesly for a couple years now.

Have you tried to reset the controller? Unplug the o2 from the harness then power up the controller (turn key on) for 60 seconds. Turn key back off, re connect the sensor then re calibrate.

They say don't wait for senor to heat to start the car. It's better for the exhaust to heat up with the sensor.

Are you running a gasket from the turbo to the downpipe? Make sure your downpipe is not for some reason isolated. It should have a good ground to the motor.

Where is the controller located?

An AFR of 22.1 is normal during heat up.
Click to expand...

Mine worked fine for years, too. Not sure what the story is with this one.

Yes, I know the 22:1 is normal - that's how I know it worked briefly. That was key on, engine off. It only worked that one time. Right after we got that reading we started the car up and got the flashing LED indicating an error.

We went through the process of resetting the controller several times. The manual says wait 20 seconds.

I think the sensor is toast, for whatever reason.

Thanks for the reply.

Jim
 
I worried that I messed up my sensor and got a new one too. No soap. Still was useless.:rolleyes:
 
darkred87T,

You're wiring, especially grounds, is jacked up...bad. That's why you fried the sensor. The LC-1 is extremely sensitive to grounding concerns. Believe me, I understand your pain. I about tore my hair out getting mine to work too, including frying a sensor.

Red (12v supply for sensor heater) wire should go strait to a dedicated circuit (i.e.-IGN port on fuse panel). This would rule out any power supply issues. However, that's the easy part. You HAVE to ground the green (analog ground), white (system ground) and blue wires to the block...no exceptions.

Now here's the tricky part: Since you are obviously trying to log the AFR with the Powerlogger, the blue (sensor ground) must be separated from the white and green wires.

Where was the LC-1 grounded when you first started the car?

The sensor is position above the 3 and 9 o' clock positions right?

Never ground any sort of sensor to the frame, especially if you are getting the power supply for that sensor from the ECM's power supply. :eek:
 
Bung location is critical. I went through several myself... Grounding is also crucial as said. Jay has installed numerous of these with the MafPro and has had great luck with them!
 
87geeinn said:
darkred87T,


Red (12v supply for sensor heater) wire should go strait to a dedicated circuit (i.e.-IGN port on fuse panel). This would rule out any power supply issues. However, that's the easy part. You HAVE to ground the green (analog ground), white (system ground) and blue wires to the block...no exceptions.

Now here's the tricky part: Since you are obviously trying to log the AFR with the Powerlogger, the blue (sensor ground) must be separated from the white and green wires.
:eek:
Click to expand...

Where should the Analog ground be with powerlogger.

I asked over on Full throttle's forums and I got one answer that said tie all of them together and to the head.

It's just me but I though the ECM ground was tied directly to the head looking at an old wiring harness I THOUGHT I remembered the ECM ground goes straight through the firewall to the head ground.
 
all grounds to the head...solved my problems....Innovative were good enough to supply me with a new sensor...but I ordered another anyway...so now i have a back up....also make sure the LC-1 is set to display the right settings for some reason mine was not....and linking it to lap top was an issue..went thru 3 different types of usb/conectors....this one worked

BestBuy.com - Search Results
 

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aminga said:
It's just me but I though the ECM ground was tied directly to the head looking at an old wiring harness I THOUGHT I remembered the ECM ground goes straight through the firewall to the head ground.
Click to expand...

That's what we assumed. We tapped into the thick, black ground for the ECM for the PowerLogger analog block, and hooked up the blue and white wires for the LC-1 to the ground lug on that block. The LC-1 instructions say to ground the blue and white together.

The LC-1 was never powered on without a ground. We went through the test procedure, key on engine off, got the solid red and the readings on the Power Logger. Shut it off, started the engine a few minutes later, and got the blinking error light. No other changes.

The sensor is installed correctly, at about the 9:00 position. Same place mine is. This one didn't work long enough for any moisture to collect anyway, even if it were installed incorrectly.

When I had my LM-1, I just tapped into any old black wire I could find near my radio. It worked great for years.

Jim
 
ran seperate ground wire from head thru firewall and cionnected all the ground wires to that...that way there can be no differential...even ran PL ground to it....I had tried multiple other ground sources.....would work intermitantly....free air np....inside dump...np....go to start...flashing codes...tried new sensor...free air calibration..heater calibration np...install start car...it dies....moved all ground to block...and it worked fine
 
gbsean said:
ran seperate ground wire from head thru firewall and cionnected all the ground wires to that...that way there can be no differential...even ran PL ground to it....I had tried multiple other ground sources.....would work intermitantly....free air np....inside dump...np....go to start...flashing codes...tried new sensor...free air calibration..heater calibration np...install start car...it dies....moved all ground to block...and it worked fine
Click to expand...

It's easy enough to do so we'll give it a whirl. Probably need a new sensor, but will ground everything to the block.

Jim
 
I could be wrong but....

It would seem funny to me to just run the ground wires right to the back of the engine block but maybe that's the best way to do it.I would have thoght the ECM would be sufficient being that it would have to have a good ground as well. Also, I'm pretty sure the instructions say to ground the blue and white wires together but I'll double check.

Does anyone know if I can get just the sensor without the kit?
 
5. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source.
Optimally, these (and any other MTS device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and
connected to a single point. When this isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug,
and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in
unwanted signal “noise.” When possible, soldering is always better than crimping. Please
see chapter 2.3 for more information on Electrical Grounding Concerns.

Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should share the same
grounding location of the analog input’s ground. Refer to chapter 2.2 for recommended
wiring schematics.
 
I use the Factory Ground directly above the ECM. Look up & there is a big black wire hooked up from the factory. I also have grounds from engine to frame, engine to body, coilpack to frame & body, gas tank to frame & body, etc etc etc. I must have 8-10 grounds but I have never had a problem with my XD-16 until I had to have it reprogrammed off the internet for some reason when it went nuts on me one time. Works fine so far. These cars need grounds & a few extra may be overkill but its only a few feet of wire. Why not? Good Luck!
 
So I'm powerlogging wideband now with no apparent problems. All my grounds went to an engine ground

My EGT Amp is grounded to the same place.

12 Volt power is from a IGN terminal in the box with a 10 amp inline fuse. Shared with the EGT AMP.

This got me to thinking and my gauges were never fused so I went back and added a fuse there too.

I'll get some pics of the cal switch but I put that in a TR Custom parts switch panel along with the status LED.
 
I bought my replacement one at a local parts store. I don't remember which year but I believe it was for a one of the 1.8 turbo jobs. The part # is buried in the Innovate forum. They don't want everyone to know it so they can charge an arm and a leg for a new one.
 
Seems like an aweful big headache to run... what... 11.00's ? 11.50's ?

Why not just plug in an $85 Turbotweak chip and get the same results without the headaches ? :confused:

The extent that some of you guys go, to make these cars more complicated, just boggles my mind. ;)
 
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