LC1 install getting #8 error code. Faulty 02?

Seems like an aweful big headache to run... what... 11.00's ? 11.50's ?

Why not just plug in an $85 Turbotweak chip and get the same results without the headaches ? :confused:

The extent that some of you guys go, to make these cars more complicated, just boggles my mind. ;)

ummmmm.... WBO2s and prom chips are two totally different categories. WBO2 gives you access to one of the most important pieces of information in performance tuning and to say " to run what... 11s? " is a retarded ass statement as cars running much much faster are using WBO2s to datalog and increase performance. The WBO2 in itself will not automatically add HP but with the right knowledge and ability can allow the user to "ACTUALLY" tune the car.... to me your statement is false and makes ZERO sense. AS just by plugging in ANY chip [TT/BB] does not magically give you a zillion hp:rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
ummmmm.... WBO2s and prom chips are two totally different categories. WBO2 gives you access to one of the most important pieces of information in performance tuning and to say " to run what... 11s? " is a retarded ass statement as cars running much much faster are using WBO2s to datalog and increase performance. The WBO2 in itself will not automatically add HP but with the right knowledge and ability can allow the user to "ACTUALLY" tune the car.... to me your statement is false and makes ZERO sense. AS just by plugging in ANY chip [TT/BB] does not magically give you a zillion hp:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

He's the guy selling the LM-1 and PowerLogger in the Parts For Sale section so he can run 10s with a Scanmaster and a TT chip. To each his own, I guess.

And who said darkred87T's goals are 11s?

Jim
 
I can run 9's with nothing more than a scanmaster and TT chip!

You hear statements very similar to that all the time. With that being said, the above statement doesn't really tell the whole story now does it. :rolleyes:

THink about what such statements tell you. NOW, think about everything that IS NOT being presented in that statement.
 
I feel the Powerlogger is a tool well worth the money. It's a great way to datalog. I suppose people can run into the tens without a way to datalog. I would rather have real data to look at after a pass. Important info can be seen that might prevent a catastrophy. As far as the WB again I like the idea of more precise information for controling the chip. The new TT chip with WB correction at WOT is in my opinion a better way to control the chip than the NB stock O2. Again neither of them are nessassary but for me the info is important enough to justify the cost.
 
I didn't buy the 02 sensor to make the car go faster. I'm only using it to log data.
The car doesn't run right and it never did. I'm hoping this will provide a clue as to what's going on with it. The way it runs now I can run all the TT chips in the world and I still won't break into the 11's. And like Turbojimmy stated, who says I want to stop at 11's?
 
ummmmm.... WBO2s and prom chips are two totally different categories. WBO2 gives you access to one of the most important pieces of information in performance tuning and to say " to run what... 11s? " is a retarded ass statement as cars running much much faster are using WBO2s to datalog and increase performance. The WBO2 in itself will not automatically add HP but with the right knowledge and ability can allow the user to "ACTUALLY" tune the car.... to me your statement is false and makes ZERO sense. AS just by plugging in ANY chip [TT/BB] does not magically give you a zillion hp:rolleyes: :rolleyes:


I'm just pointing out the obvious.

It's obvious he has problems with his car, and obvious he just added more problems with the LC1... hence his posting here.

I see some guys using these things effectively... and others using this stuff to run 12's with a 10-sec combination... and yet others than can't even get them to work. :wink:
 
It's obvious he has problems with his car, and obvious he just added more problems with the LC1... hence his posting here.

He didn't add more problems with the LC1. Had it worked out of the box, it would be a valuable tool in figuring out exactly what's wrong (if anything) with the car. It's a fresh rebuild with new everything, yet still seems to be running funny.

darkred87T just showed up at my house - we're going to put it on the lift and pop in a new sensor. Fingers crossed.....

Jim
 
I'm just pointing out the obvious.

It's obvious he has problems with his car, and obvious he just added more problems with the LC1... hence his posting here.

I see some guys using these things effectively... and others using this stuff to run 12's with a 10-sec combination... and yet others than can't even get them to work. :wink:

There's a lot to be said for keeping it simple.
 
The sensor was bad. The new sensor works fine - we get a solid red. Kept the grounds at the PowerLogger block, which is connected to the ECM ground.

But now, every time we start the car, PowerLogger loses track of it. Still a solid red on the LC1. Shut the car off, the readings return to the PowerLogger.

Going to move the grounds to a homerun on the back of the block, but I'm not optimistic.

Jim
 
Okay, the new sensor is working fine. But, the problem now is that the LC-1 is dropping out when you crank. The voltage drop screws it up. Been f'ing around with it all afternoon. Works great until you crank, then it drops out. Every once in a while it will stay up, but 99% of the time it just stops sending data. It's wired right to the fuse box, and right to the engine block.

I remember with my LM-1 I had to install some sort of relay so that the heater didn't start working until the car was running. Maybe the same thing here.

I think he should just switch to a brand that works.

Jim
 
Okay, the new sensor is working fine. But, the problem now is that the LC-1 is dropping out when you crank. The voltage drop screws it up. Been f'ing around with it all afternoon. Works great until you crank, then it drops out. Every once in a while it will stay up, but 99% of the time it just stops sending data. It's wired right to the fuse box, and right to the engine block.

I remember with my LM-1 I had to install some sort of relay so that the heater didn't start working until the car was running. Maybe the same thing here.

I think he should just switch to a brand that works.

Jim

Jim, it takes a few seconds for the sensor to reheat after you start the car.
 
I think he should just switch to a brand that works.

Jim
:smile: Like I said. NO issues with the A/fx. I wired a relay into the power wire as per the instructions and grounded it as per instructions and it worked immediately. I also liked the plug. It can easily be disassembled to run the wires through a smaller hole.
I think the German engineering of the Innovate doesn't play well with us unsophisticated Americans.
 
I just had the car out and the 02 sensor seemed to be workng fine all of the sudden.
As for it adding more problems, it's actually the opposite. I think it's going to come in handy. Thanks for all the HELPFULL advise so far. I will keep you updated as I might not be out of the water yet with this.

As for some of the other posts, this is the tech section not the lounge. I'm not asking for advice on whether or not getting my WB02 was a good idea. I was asking a technical question about a possible malfunctioning part.
 
Jim, it takes a few seconds for the sensor to reheat after you start the car.

Yes, we watched it switch to warm-up mode, and then go solid but it never reappeared on the PowerLogger. But now Mike says it's working so it's all good.

Jim
 
Yes, we watched it switch to warm-up mode, and then go solid but it never reappeared on the PowerLogger. But now Mike says it's working so it's all good.

Jim

Gotcha Jim ;), Mine sometimes does the same thing but it always starts up soon after. It's like a delay on the anaolg signal. Glad it's working!
 
Gotcha Jim ;), Mine sometimes does the same thing but it always starts up soon after. It's like a delay on the anaolg signal. Glad it's working!

That seems to be what happened. We just weren't patient enough. It seems to be working really well. His 1/4s were coated with carbon by the tail pipes and his plugs are fouled with carbon. It was running STUPID rich, like 10:1 at idle. I swapped out the stock O2 with a new Denso and now it idles at 14:1. But it stays at 14:1 at WOT, which is too lean. We need to look into that. The stock, narrowband 02 didn't let on that there was a problem.

Jim
 
The WB02 stopped working. It's all over the place at idle and it pins at 7:1 when I give it throttle.
I guess because it runs so rich it must be polluted with carbon. :confused:
 
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