Looking for a Turbo suggestion
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Personally I would not buy anything than a garrett gt42 series turbo, 4 bolt .98-1.15 ar either a gt4202R (950HP) or a gt4294R (850HP)or the new billet wheel series gtxr (1100 HP)which flow more at higher boost. If it more for street the you can get away with the gtx4294 (1000hp)which is 70mm. The garret turbos BB units are the only ones that are going to outlast anything else in durability, but what else would you expect for $2500-$2800. They both use the S trim exhaust side and are high 8 second potential at high boost around 35 psi
jasjamz
THS Racer
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Sleeper!! Glad you're no stranger to power!
Check out this members thread....
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/turbos-turbo-related-parts/288221-my-billet-hpq71-has-landed.html
Check out this members thread....
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/turbos-turbo-related-parts/288221-my-billet-hpq71-has-landed.html
I used a 6680 because that's what I had. Not because it was the best scenario. I'm going to start a thread in a couple weeks that will blow the backpressure myth out of the water. Basically a 65 trim
Will flow 850hp worth of ex. a 66 trim should flow even more. The gtq flows more than a 65. Will a 6680 make more power than a 6265? Maybe. Maybe not. One thing for sure is that backpressure is not the limiting factor on either turbos. The spoolup up difference between a ball bearing gtq and a journal 65 on the street is not even close. The journal 65 will walk all over it. So if there's little to no gain running less than 750-800hp with a 65 over a gtq then the one I'd choose for the street is a no brainer. The op isn't looking for more than 800. You ever notice how you see imports making 750whp or more with the same stuff? The potential is there but few can make it happen
Not the same. The TA/TE62 is a different turbo.
jasjamz
THS Racer
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- Sep 30, 2004
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Some builds and good feedback here... http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/time-slip-combo-database/296769-times-combos-billet-turbos.html
I may be behind.....but the latest buzz is the CEA exhaust wheels.....and they have recently released the 66 mm wheel which is for the 62 and 67 turbo I think. I understand the 6765 and the newer 6766 is a "small shaft" turbo.....and the 6768 and 7168 is a "large shaft" turbo.....
It is my opinion that the 6766 should possibly make the same or more power than the 6768 did....and spoolup considerably sooner. I would also think the smaller shaft reduces rotating mass a little giving it an advantage too as compared to the older 68 exhaust wheel.
IMHO, the 6766 billet is one bad turbo....and IMHO....might make low 9 sec power with the right combo....but ought to run high 9's on relatively low boost (less than 25 psi)....and be fairly street friendly.
My $.02 on these. I've already seen the 6766 dynoed and have made about 30 pulls on one of my own engines with a 6265. One thing for sure is that the turbos weren't tapped out on either engines and both made 9 sec power under 30psi. It is unlikely that either would pick up more than a couple % with a 68 turbine which is considerably heavier and has already made over 1000hp on a tsm engine. Very few That buy these turbo have enough engine to swallow them. That's why all the lackluster times are posted with them. You need to have the engine and run it hard to make the power at low boost. Switching to a different turbine isn't going to do dick for 98% of those posting here.
Hey Brian, what kind of hp numbers did the 6766 make and was it on a Buick V6?
Is is safe to say that all of these Billet turbos 6266, 6766 and 6768 would all be close in HP figures when run hard with lower boost numbers (18-22psi) on a good flowing combo. IE: 9:1 compression, roller cam and ported aluminum heads with supporting equipment? Thanks
Datar
Thats a very safe assumption. The 6766 made about the same power as the 6265 made on my engine with about the same boost. Enough to run 9's easily if the rest of the car is up for it. I dont want to spill the beans about the results i got with the 6265 yet since it will just result in me getting bombarded with PM's about the engine which is nothing crazy anyway. Im getting a really good cylinder fill between 5100 and 5500. There is really nothing there at 18-22psi. More turbo doesnt help it there. These engines are too small. The 60-1 hyybrid from 1993 made about 600whp without even trying. I never even tested the 6265 under 25psi. Why would i want to? Its rated to support a lot more than it could make at those low pressure ratios and would just create boost control problems trying to run it lower and possibly higher if the wastegate bypass hole was opened up so it could be run at low pressures. Opening the wastegate hole causes it to drop boost when you really start pushing it. You dont want to give the exhaust pressure anymore than it needs to push on or it will just drop boost as mass flow through the engine increases. I was getting a little drop off with the 6265. The thing is where the 60-1 was out of breath the newer turbos will keep making boost and more power.
Because your goals are ONLY high 9's or 10.0's..... with the combo you have....... any of them would work. When you talk about driving them almost daily...... I'd opt for the traditional 3 bolt 63 housing...... probably the E-cover...... it will spoolup probably the quickest, yet with only high 9 sec goal.... not be too much backpressure.
If you revised your goals to bottom 9's..... and over 75% strip..... go for the best.... 4-bolt.....96 exhaust housing...... double ball bearing...
The debate is still out there on when it is the best horsepower level to make the switch-over to 4-bolt. IMHO, this is somewhere between 900 and 1000 FWHP before the 3-bolt is really holding you back...... at the 10.0 power level.... I don't think you are going to need anywhere close to that kind of power.
when you have enough engine and run enough boost to run 137+ out the back there will be some benefit. I know of only about 5 real street cars that have that much power. Buy it with whatever cover will be easier to use.
If you're planning on making the solid 9sec power that turbo is rated for you shouldn't need to open the hole. If you want to try and turn it down you will need to open the hole. So if you planning on running 10.0 or 9.9 you will probably need the hole opened a little. If you are looking to run 9.7 you should leave it alone. If you want to run 850hp one day and turn it down to 600hp the next day you will need to rethink your wastegate setup because its not going to work with the stock style external gate
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