You should swing thru Pottstown Saturday afternoon/evening. They are having the last Nostalgia Nights car show. The town shuts down High Street for the car show... I will have my car there sometime after 4pm, along with a bunch of buddies of mine.
Motor won't rev over 5200-5300rpm... WTF???
- Thread starter yullose
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You should swing thru Pottstown Saturday afternoon/evening. They are having the last Nostalgia Nights car show. The town shuts down High Street for the car show... I will have my car there sometime after 4pm, along with a bunch of buddies of mine.
BIG DITTO to that... all my boots are dry as a nun's cunt.
Info lifted from MSD's website:
The MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Wire is "the" performance wire.Engineered from the inside out, the 8.5 offers everything you have everwanted in a wire; incredibly low resistance without electronic interference! In a single 12 inch length of Super Conductor Wire there is only 40 - 50 ohms of resistance! That is the lowest resistance of any helically wound wire. To accomplish this, we use a copper alloy conductor due to it's great voltage carrying capabilities. The low resistance results in less loss in spark energy so more reaches the spark plug. The conductor is wound extremely tight around a special center core. So tight in fact, that there is over 40 feet of conductor wrapped into a single foot of plug wire. This winding procedure, combined with a ferro-magnetic impregnated center core, produces an extremely effective Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI) "choke". This choke, or suppression capability, keeps the EMI inside the wire where it cannot interfere with other electronics on your vehicle. The outer sleeve that surrounds the conductor assembly is just as impressive. A proprietary blend of silicone and synthetic material produce a sleeve that is highly resistant to high heat as well as abrasion and tears. The MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Plug Wire is available in Universal Kits and Bulk Lengths.
The MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Wire is "the" performance wire.Engineered from the inside out, the 8.5 offers everything you have everwanted in a wire; incredibly low resistance without electronic interference! In a single 12 inch length of Super Conductor Wire there is only 40 - 50 ohms of resistance! That is the lowest resistance of any helically wound wire. To accomplish this, we use a copper alloy conductor due to it's great voltage carrying capabilities. The low resistance results in less loss in spark energy so more reaches the spark plug. The conductor is wound extremely tight around a special center core. So tight in fact, that there is over 40 feet of conductor wrapped into a single foot of plug wire. This winding procedure, combined with a ferro-magnetic impregnated center core, produces an extremely effective Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI) "choke". This choke, or suppression capability, keeps the EMI inside the wire where it cannot interfere with other electronics on your vehicle. The outer sleeve that surrounds the conductor assembly is just as impressive. A proprietary blend of silicone and synthetic material produce a sleeve that is highly resistant to high heat as well as abrasion and tears. The MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Plug Wire is available in Universal Kits and Bulk Lengths.
This was lifted from NGK's website:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: When should I use a resistor spark plug?
A: NGK "R" or resistor spark plugs use a 5k ohm ceramic resistor in the spark plug to suppress ignition noise generated during sparking.
NGK strongly recommends using resistor spark plugs in any vehicle that uses on-board computer systems to monitor or control engine performance. This is because resistor spark plugs reduce electromagnetic interference with on-board electronics.
They are also recommended on any vehicle that has other on-board electronic systems such as engine-management computers, two-way radios, GPS systems, depth finders or whenever recommended by the manufacturer.
In fact, using a non-resistor plug in certain applications can actually cause the engine to suffer undesirable side effects such as an erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, engine run-on, power drop off at certain rpm levels and abnormal combustion.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: When should I use a resistor spark plug?
A: NGK "R" or resistor spark plugs use a 5k ohm ceramic resistor in the spark plug to suppress ignition noise generated during sparking.
NGK strongly recommends using resistor spark plugs in any vehicle that uses on-board computer systems to monitor or control engine performance. This is because resistor spark plugs reduce electromagnetic interference with on-board electronics.
They are also recommended on any vehicle that has other on-board electronic systems such as engine-management computers, two-way radios, GPS systems, depth finders or whenever recommended by the manufacturer.
In fact, using a non-resistor plug in certain applications can actually cause the engine to suffer undesirable side effects such as an erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, engine run-on, power drop off at certain rpm levels and abnormal combustion.
It was way back when I was first tuning with the TECII system (2001 maybe). I was running .032" plug gap back then. The shop next to me was Sam Coe, an ATV tuner and technician. I would sporadically experience what felt like ignition breakup, crossfiring, and sometimes some pretty wild backfiring (probably caused by crossfiring) when I would put a load on the engine. It could somtimes be just engine braking, sometimes I would have to be under full load on a launch test and high rpm. It was some pretty wild stuff. Pretty scary really when the engine would kick back sometimes. I mean kick back like rod breaking kick back. At night when the moisture crept in, it seemed to be worse. I was at my wits end trying to figure out what was happening.
I finally mentioned during a bull session with Sam the problem I was having. It so happened that he had worked with the Electromotive product before. The first words out of his mouth were, "Did you use dielectric grease on the wire boots?" I told him I hadn't, and he informed me, that is what he had to do with another persons car to get that same symptom to stop happening.
I was not very convinced that dielectric grease could be that important, so I continued to suffer trying to figure out this strange problem. After a few more weeks I realized I had nothing to lose by trying the dielectric grease. I put grease on the plug ends of the wires. It did seem to help a little, but it would still occur and after some time it was back to happening as much as before the dielectric grease.
More weeks of suffering with this problem. I revisited the dielectric grease idea, but this time I decided to coat the boots on both ends of the wires. It was like magic. And the rest is history. Every time I remove a plug wire end, I make sure to coat it with dielectric grease before I plug the boot back on. Never another similar problem since.
Regardless of whether this is your true problem or not, COAT THE BOOTS OF YOUR HIGH TENSION LEADS WITH DIELECTRIC GREASE!!! PLEASE!!!
I finally mentioned during a bull session with Sam the problem I was having. It so happened that he had worked with the Electromotive product before. The first words out of his mouth were, "Did you use dielectric grease on the wire boots?" I told him I hadn't, and he informed me, that is what he had to do with another persons car to get that same symptom to stop happening.
I was not very convinced that dielectric grease could be that important, so I continued to suffer trying to figure out this strange problem. After a few more weeks I realized I had nothing to lose by trying the dielectric grease. I put grease on the plug ends of the wires. It did seem to help a little, but it would still occur and after some time it was back to happening as much as before the dielectric grease.
More weeks of suffering with this problem. I revisited the dielectric grease idea, but this time I decided to coat the boots on both ends of the wires. It was like magic. And the rest is history. Every time I remove a plug wire end, I make sure to coat it with dielectric grease before I plug the boot back on. Never another similar problem since.
Regardless of whether this is your true problem or not, COAT THE BOOTS OF YOUR HIGH TENSION LEADS WITH DIELECTRIC GREASE!!! PLEASE!!!
It's hard to find a racing plug that is also a resistor type. Luckily I've been getting away with using non-resistor plugs. I use Magnecor 10mm spiral would wires. The same basic design as the MSDs.
I'll have to check the Champions I'm presently using. I can't remember if they're resistor or not.
I'll have to check the Champions I'm presently using. I can't remember if they're resistor or not.
Another thing Sam mentioned. He explained that the Electromotive secondary energy is so potent that secondary blowout is a real problem. Hence the dielectric grease. He also explained that running a tighter spark plug gap keeps the secondary voltage requirement lower, and that will also help control secondary blowout. Hence the .023" plug gap I've been using for quite awhile now.
I've been trying to cross-reference numbers for the last hour now...
Sofar, the best I come up with is Autolite # 3922... it's a standard resistor style plug, fairly cold, and has all the correct dimensions.
The NGK equivalent is: BKR7E-E
Sofar, the best I come up with is Autolite # 3922... it's a standard resistor style plug, fairly cold, and has all the correct dimensions.
The NGK equivalent is: BKR7E-E
With the nitrous, I highly suggest a standard type gap with a cut back ground electrode.
Stay away from a projected nose. They have a longer ground electrode that loves to pickup that combustion heat from nitrous use.
It's hard to find a plug that comes out of the box with a cutback ground electrode like this. When I first saw these, I fell in love. Not only is the cutback extraordinary, look at how wide the ground strap is. It will dissipate heat better to the shell!!!
I know. But it's a freaking Champion plug. All I can say is, I've been on the first set I've bought for quite some time now. I've checked them and they are showing very small signs of heat. Unbelievable really.
OK. I'm done shoveling out my speed secrets for tonight. Good night guys.
Stay away from a projected nose. They have a longer ground electrode that loves to pickup that combustion heat from nitrous use.
It's hard to find a plug that comes out of the box with a cutback ground electrode like this. When I first saw these, I fell in love. Not only is the cutback extraordinary, look at how wide the ground strap is. It will dissipate heat better to the shell!!!
I know. But it's a freaking Champion plug. All I can say is, I've been on the first set I've bought for quite some time now. I've checked them and they are showing very small signs of heat. Unbelievable really.
OK. I'm done shoveling out my speed secrets for tonight. Good night guys.
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I just put the AC Delco wires on it a few minutes ago... but it's now 130 in the morning... and the wife & kids are in bed.
She'll have my ass if I take the car out now and wake everybody up.
I'm a little skeptical of a plug or wire issue. The car runs fine up to 5000rpm. If it was a weak s-plug or wire, the condition would be more boost related. Not rpm.
RPM issue points more toward a sensor or mechanical problem.
At this point I'd check the valve spring pressures.
One more thing, on the logs you posted, I'm not seeing the wideband signal. You are running a lm-1? Are you able to view the wb data on your pl?
ttypewe4jim
pa turbo buick racing
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You should swing thru Pottstown Saturday afternoon/evening. They are having the last Nostalgia Nights car show. The town shuts down High Street for the car show... I will have my car there sometime after 4pm, along with a bunch of buddies of mine.
Im trying to just found my drive ability issue to be the cam sensor
now I can hopefully atleast cruise the car it ran great wot but under part throttle it was horriable. :biggrin: what time is the show till?Im trying to just found my drive ability issue to be the cam sensor
I think it's from 4pm to 9pm... or something like that... We usually hang out at McDonalds afterwards...till at least midnight or later.
Sometimes there is a little late night street action going on too...
After stops at several local auto parts stores, I was finally able to come up with EXACTLY what I wanted...
I found an NGK resistor plug with the exact same heat range as the R42's... but with the dimensions I need for the aluminum heads.
I just gotta toss 'em in the motor and take it for a ride...
I found an NGK resistor plug with the exact same heat range as the R42's... but with the dimensions I need for the aluminum heads.
I just gotta toss 'em in the motor and take it for a ride...
I take it you haven't burnt a ground electrode with nitrous yet. After you do, you won't be wanting to use projected nose, long ground electrode plugs ever again.
If your shot is small enough, you probably won't have any issue anyway.
If your shot is small enough, you probably won't have any issue anyway.
Oh yeah, I've nipped plugs before... but that was usually when I got greedy and leaned the motor out.
I have no intention of spraying it anytime soon.
It's only jetted @ 100hp anyway... and I can pull a couple degrees of timing if needed.
The main objective was to get as close to the factory R42's as possible... and these NGK's are a dead-ringer. R42's are pretty cold by AC Delco standards... and running aluminum heads will help pull heat from them better than irons anyway.
I have high hopes for these plugs.
The motor is behind me running right now... getting up to temp before a test drive...
I'll report back a little later.
Well... the plugs didn't help.
It feels stronger, but still has the same problem....
I was looking at my PL file from this last run... and I see the MAF #'s go back n forth from 256 to 254 when my foot is on the floor.
Could this be a MAF problem ???
I thought Eric's chip used the MAF for control up to 256, then his chip takes over from there... I don't know if it's back and forth because of the sputter problem, or if it's dropping to 254 and causing a fueling problem.
Here's the PL file from the run I just made with the new plugs... (And yes, I put a bunch of dielectric goop in all the boots)
It feels stronger, but still has the same problem....
I was looking at my PL file from this last run... and I see the MAF #'s go back n forth from 256 to 254 when my foot is on the floor.
Could this be a MAF problem ???
I thought Eric's chip used the MAF for control up to 256, then his chip takes over from there... I don't know if it's back and forth because of the sputter problem, or if it's dropping to 254 and causing a fueling problem.
Here's the PL file from the run I just made with the new plugs... (And yes, I put a bunch of dielectric goop in all the boots)
