My billet TA block on Methanol/E85 w/ 160lb injectors and a Gen2 'street' car build.

[marleyskater420]

I did ss braided line and black fittings. Looks good on a tb.

That is what I am kinda leaning towards. I think it'll look really slick, especially with the black intake manifold underneath it.

 

[marleyskater420]

So a few boxes came this week, and I completely forgot how getting car parts in the mail makes you feel like a kid on Christmas all over again.

Big thanks to TR Custom parts for the quick shipping, and a HUGE thanks to Kinsler Fuel Injection- Justin and Brian. I asked them for some stickers to put on my tool chest and to share with my gf's 7yr old kid, and they hooked it up fat! I am proud to give them my business and I hope others can see from my experiences why Kinsler is the place to go to get your fuel system needs

The new toys.....

PST center link and TR Custom parts AC Delete panel:

75 Micron stainless fuel filter. Using it as the pre-filter for the Weldon 2345A I bought from Kinsler. This fuel filter comes with -12 male ends, but you can order it in a variety of different combos :

Magnafuel AFPR:

Helllllllla stickers that Kinsler hooked up!!! :

Had to get a shirt for myself, and for my gf's 7yr old He'll have the coolest shirt in the entire school

Big thanks again to Justin and Brian at Kinsler, and TR Custom parts for having such quick shipping. When companies have such great service like these two, I never hesitate to purchase from them, and praise their name wherever I go.

-Tyler

 

[marleyskater420]

Located some K1 wide journal rods from TA performance, and picked up a SFI harmonic balancer as well.

 

[marleyskater420]

So an update:

Most of the parts are ready for powdercoating, I just need to finish the passenger spindle, tie rods, and center link. After that, I"ll be dropping them off and it is about a 10-15 business day turnaround from there.

I am also thinking of having the Champion AC delete bracket anodized in red, blue, or black..simply because it would look crazy and different. Also thinking of having the Compressor cover ceramic coated in Blue

I did want to say that in looking for these rods, I spent a lot of time with Tom over at Molnar Technologies - http://www.molnartechnologies.com/ and I have to say this guy is truly a class-act. I haven't met someone so genuine in a long while. The guy took the time to explain connecting rod design, crankshaft weak points, and anything else I asked him. If I could, I'd have bought all my parts off this guy-they just don't have wide journal stuff, hah!

Anyway, big thanks to Tom at Molnar Technologies, and now I have to sit and wait until Thursday when the Crankshaft arrives

 

[marleyskater420]

Oh, I got bored and started playing around with the new AN fittings I got... here is what I was thinking about:

 

[marleyskater420]

Well, this lovely piece from Richard Miller arrived today:

 

[marleyskater420]

Forged RPM crank vs. Billet LA Enterprise crank:

 

[dank GN]

Nice that is the same crank I will be runing .

 

[marleyskater420]

So, I'm incredibly bored at work right now since I have caught up on everything, and figured I'd give a little update on the project;

At this point I have just about everything that needs or can be ordered, ordered. Only stuff up in the air are things like new the alternator or water pump pulley and whether or not I'll be getting it from RJC or just using stock stuff.

Almost all the parts that need to be cleaned prior to taking to the powdercoating place have been cleaned. I have just a few pieces left to bead blast, and then it is off to the coating place.

After I get things back, it will probably be the same time to take down my motor to Duttweiler and drop it off for him to build. I didn't order pistons/rings/bearings because I am leaving that stuff up to him. Everything else will make its' way down there for a full longblock build.

Once the suspension pieces are back from powder coating, I'll be going up to where I store my car, and begin installing them so the car can be a rolling chassis again. By the time that is done, it will more than likely be around the same time the motor is built, so that will be going in the car as well. Once the motor is in, then all the fun plumbing of wires/fuel lines/etc can begin!

So yea, lots of money for what seems like not a lot of progress.....yet


Also- I'm still waiting for my PTC 9.5", Weldon fuel pump controller, Varishock 2x adj. front shocks, and a few misc. odds and ends to arrive. Once those things get here, I am basically on hold until the motor goes in the car, as everything else is based on available space once the car has all the big stuff in the engine bay where it needs to be

 

[marleyskater420]

Fuel Pump Controller, AN fittings for dual-feed plumbing, Alternator/Crank/Water pump pulleys, and Converter came in. 9.5" Non-lockup unit. What sucks is that I have to send it back so they can modify it for the new billet crank I got, as the pump on the TC won't fit on the crank. There goes $120 in shipping :/




Way stoked on this controller though. It slows down the fuel pump so that you are not circulating too much fuel in your system and thus heating the fuel up, which can cause problems. The Hobbs switch ties into the vacuum block on the intake and is activated by boost. Once activated it then turns the fuel pump on all the way, so you do not have any worries for going lean. There was an option between a switch you manually flip, or the Hobbs switch, and I figured if I'm randomly going to go into boost, there may come a time I forget to flip the switch and go lean, blowing up my motor..So for $50, it is worth the insurance. Certain things like that I've come to learn the hard way that they are worth buying... :/

 

[Chris McDade]

Update?

Looking good so far.

 

[marleyskater420]

Update?

Looking good so far.

So quite a few things have changed as of recent...

The new stuff:

With the help of a close friend, I have just put a deposit down on a new 4.0 bore off-center TA aluminum block!!

I went back and forth between using my 109, grabbing a Stage 1 block, and the idea of a TA block. After considering the amount of money it would cost to replace my billet crankshaft, my rods, my pistons, etc, I decided to pull the trigger (with the help of a friend) on a TA block. They won't be ready for another 3-5 months, but that is fine by me!


ENGINE CHANGES:
The build for the motor will now be:
*3.970 bore off center TA block (this is the bore that Kenny Dutt said he is going to use for my motor-he is building it)
*3.625 stroker Billet LA enterprise "Kryptonite" wide journal crankshaft
*Forged K1 wide journal connecting rods (the last pair of K1's before Tom Molnar left K1 and started Molnar Tech)
*Custom forged Diamond pistons as spec'd by Kenny Duttweiler
*Total displacement of about a 4.41Litre, 269ci Buick V6


Suspension changes:
*I have also picked up new Varishock double adjustable shocks from SC&C for the front of the car, replacing the Koni 90/10s I had on there previously.
*The next suspension pieces I am looking to change are the rear shocks to the same Varishock double adjustables, new SPC front lower control arms (mainly because of the ability to adjust the ride height and the improvements on suspension geometry) and potentially a Hellwig tubular front swaybar along with the front frame brace and rear shock tower braces...The bracing and front swaybar are not a top priority, but the rear shocks and front lower CA's are definitely on my list of "wants" and "if I see it come up for a good price used"...

Other Changes:
*A New TR-6 ignition, plug wires, mounting plate and coilpack from Don Cruz (great customer service!)
*Looking to finally drop off my suspension pieces to get powdercoated. The front upper and lower control arms will be done in grey. The spindles, steering box, center link and all tie rods/pitman arm will be done in black.
*Toying with the idea of getting the billet EGR plate anodized black, and the billet vacuum block either anodized in the same color red as my fuel rails, or black to match the intake manifold.

At this point it is a matter of waiting for the new TA blocks to arrive, getting my suspension powdercoated and put back on the car, and once the supension is back on, I can put the rest of the front end back together!


Varishock double-adjustable front shocks:



New TR-6 Ignition with 2-step from Don Cruz. Big thanks to him for hooking it up with hella stickers for my girlfriend's 7yr old who absolutely loved them! He even put some on his Hennessey RC car I got him for his birthday!

 

[Wahoo]

So an update:

Most of the parts are ready for powdercoating, I just need to finish the passenger spindle, tie rods, and center link. After that, I"ll be dropping them off and it is about a 10-15 business day turnaround from there.

I am also thinking of having the Champion AC delete bracket anodized in red, blue, or black..simply because it would look crazy and different. Also thinking of having the Compressor cover ceramic coated in Blue

I did want to say that in looking for these rods, I spent a lot of time with Tom over at Molnar Technologies - http://www.molnartechnologies.com/ and I have to say this guy is truly a class-act. I haven't met someone so genuine in a long while. The guy took the time to explain connecting rod design, crankshaft weak points, and anything else I asked him. If I could, I'd have bought all my parts off this guy-they just don't have wide journal stuff, hah!

Anyway, big thanks to Tom at Molnar Technologies, and now I have to sit and wait until Thursday when the Crankshaft arrives

I know your changing your setup but is wide journal just bolt in ready? Is it a lot better? It's just the rods that become wide journal right? Sorry I'm a noob.

 

[marleyskater420]

I know your changing your setup but is wide journal just bolt in ready? Is it a lot better? It's just the rods that become wide journal right? Sorry I'm a noob.

I suppose every crankshaft/rotating assembly needs to still be balanced and machined a bit, but a wide journal crank is just as "ready" as a narrow journal crank. The difference is in the width of the journals where the connecting rods attach.

There are pros and cons to wide journal just as there is narrow journal. The wide journal (and if I am wrong, someone please correct me. Admittedly I am not as familiar with all the nuances of the wide v. narrow and on v. off center aspects of these motors) crankshafts allow a larger area for the connecting rod to sit on and allows for a wider bearing surface, but the narrow journal cranks have more material between each rod journal. The wide journal cranks allow the cylinder load to be spread over a larger surface than the narrow journals....basically when you're making a ton of hp, the wide journal cranks allow for all that force going onto each piston to be spread over a larger surface area and put less stress (maybe that is a poor way to word it?) on the rods/journals.

Now I am sure there are plenty of reasons that a narrow journal is great, too.

I figured since my crankshaft is billet, my rods are forged, and I now have 6 bolt mains with billet main caps, I have/will done all that I think is possible to aid the motor in strengthening the areas that are prone to breaking.

The crankshaft and rods are what come in either "narrow" or "wide" journal. The blocks, rods, and intake manifolds are what come in either "on" or "off" center.


BTW- I will probably be selling my old 109 motor for those interested. It is a .040 109 block with a RJC girdle, crank scraper, and stock main caps. The motor was built by RJC and the block/main caps are already machined for the girdle. My zipcode for shipping estimates is 94560. I have a great freight carrier that we use for work and I can palletize the motor and send it through a freight carrier.

 

[marleyskater420]

Finally got to pluming the fuel lines with the TR-6 mounted.

Beyond stoked how it came out. "I'm not fucking around"-type setup

 

[marleyskater420]

So I brought my old heads home and tried to mock up the motor using my 109 block so that I can try to get a much more accurate idea of how the fuel lines are going to work.

This is the results of me staying up literally all night trying to make the fuel lines work so that there are no obstructions and the fuel lines won't hit anything...

 

[qws2000]

great set up 420... Is that a Magna fuel?

 

[bison]

Perfect candidate for our coil near plug setup with Pantera coils


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[marleyskater420]

great set up 420... Is that a Magna fuel?

Magnafuel AFPR and Y block. Yes

Perfect candidate for our coil near plug setup with Pantera coils


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ORLY? Do tell...

 

[Kendall1214]

Awesome build! Can't wait to see what it does! I also got a fuel system from Kinsler it's a BA set thanks to Brian and also to Tyler on them helping map out my fuel needs!