My restoration progress begins...

[noneed4nos]

Ok so I have finally started somehwere besides collection some minor parts here and their, I actually started something on my restoration of my 87 GN. I finished the brakes last week, cleaned out the accumulator and checked the pump. I also put in new stainless steel brake lines, drums, pads all around and slotted/drilled rotors. I also went with longer wheel studs since i will be bringing this to the track too... But besides that I started ripping the entire interior out today and have pictures to show you my progress of the whole thing until its done. (I will have the brake pictures this week.) Here are the pictures of the interior and any help/suggestions please please share it. Thanks to all:biggrin:



Here are the pictures and I will upload more as I go along. The brake pictures will be up this week as well. Any advice let me know.


Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket

 

[noneed4nos]

I know in the pictures, the rust looks alot worse than it actually is. What else can I use to grind down the rust and also what do you guys use to repaint the floor pans, etc.. after you get the rust gone. I have heard of POR 15 but was wondering where you get that and if its even good. Let me know guys, thanks

 

[regal81455]

I know in the pictures, the rust looks alot worse than it actually is. What else can I use to grind down the rust and also what do you guys use to repaint the floor pans, etc.. after you get the rust gone. I have heard of POR 15 but was wondering where you get that and if its even good. Let me know guys, thanks

im going to be doing the same here shortly, ive got the body and frame seperated right now, Ill be using rust bullet's product to protect the floors and then ill be covering with a generic dynamat and ofcourse covering with new jute and carpet. on the underneath ive ordered summit's underbody kit, comes with some undercoating, etc...

hopefully it will turn out nice. you can get the rustbullet from summit too, its a two stage product (sold seperately ) that you can really just apply the first stage and then paint with any topcoat of your choice

Most importantly GOOD LUCK!! Lets see them pictures!! :biggrin:

 

[noneed4nos]

Thanks and goodluck to you too. And should I grind down that rust any more or just coat it using the kit? Also where are you getting your carpet/insualtion and jute from? I will need new as well. And im really on debating just ripping everything out (as I feel like everyone else does that) and just have the entire body sand blasted as well as the frame and coated and then painted. Anyone have an idea of how much that will cost? and im worried because of all the elcetrical wires and pieces, I feel like any part for these cars are almost impossible to find for them thats why im debating it but I know if I do it right, it will last basically forever and not have any probelms (rust wise that is) after I blast everything. any input from everyone is very helpful and I will post any many pics as I can and you can post your pics if you want too here so I dont feel left out here Thanks and any info on this please!!!

 

[aminga]

POR15 and other preventatives are supposed to be applied over rusted metal. THe instructions say to get rid of the loose and let it fly.

Having said that I prefer to get back to bare metal somehow so you can see what's hiding under paint and such. Soda is good for removing paint for rust not so much. Other abrasives can warp the metal if not done correctly. Still I'd look into media blast to get back to good virgin metal

 

[regal81455]

yeah ill be grinding my frame down by hand, i dont have the money to send it out to the blasties! i actually have thought about blasting it myself but man what mess! i got most of the front end done to right where the cab starts, thats when i decided to pull the frame. ill do the rest after a good degreasing and pressure washing outside. as far as the carpet goes google jax seat covers they are the best for GN's and other Gbodys. Might try gbodyparts.com too...

 

[noneed4nos]

Aminga- Yea I have heard the por 15 thrown out their a while so I was wondering what you guys thought about it, I would like to get everything down to the bare metal so I dont have to worry about this rust issue(s) ever again. I think I might just go with sending out the frame and body to get blasted. Any difference in media blast or sand blast. Which one is better and any local good guys in NY? Thanks

regal81455- Yea I started to gring my floors by hand, but as you can see in the pictures I posted in the link, I didnt get too far and even the little bit on the frame didnt help me too much. Its not that I have so much rust, just the tools im working with arent that great. I.E. A electric drill with a metal brush attachment:frown: I know horrible but the compressor isnt hooked up yet so I have to work with what I got for now. I plan on pulling the body off the frame and do the same, pressure wash it and start grinding the right way hopeful soon. Im anxious to get this project moving I just keep jumping back and forth with where to start on this project. And I will try Jax but I dont think Gbody has the jute/insualtion for the front seats only the rear seats. I will try JAX though. Thanks


Again any info/comments/suggestions please throw it out their. Thanks

 

[charlief1]

im going to be doing the same here shortly, ive got the body and frame seperated right now, Ill be using rust bullet's product to protect the floors and then ill be covering with a generic dynamat and ofcourse covering with new jute and carpet. on the underneath ive ordered summit's underbody kit, comes with some undercoating, etc...

hopefully it will turn out nice. you can get the rustbullet from summit too, its a two stage product (sold seperately ) that you can really just apply the first stage and then paint with any topcoat of your choice

Most importantly GOOD LUCK!! Lets see them pictures!! :biggrin:

Don't use the rust bullet. We've already had a treated car peel and it has to be redone. It doesn't work quite as well as stated and POR15, while being messy, sticks and stays better.

yeah ill be grinding my frame down by hand, i dont have the money to send it out to the blasties! i actually have thought about blasting it myself but man what mess! i got most of the front end done to right where the cab starts, thats when i decided to pull the frame. ill do the rest after a good degreasing and pressure washing outside. as far as the carpet goes google jax seat covers they are the best for GN's and other Gbodys. Might try gbodyparts.com too...

I posted a link to a sand/water blaster attachment that goes on a high pressure washer. Much less mess and no dust. If I remember right it's in my first link in my sig. About $100 plus shiping

 

[whitecobra98]

consider yourself lucky after what I found yesterday after tearing up my carpet....surface rust is nothing...peep holes to the ground are what i was looking at

 

[regal81455]

charlief- with the rust bullet did you use both steps or one and not the other? Ive already purchased the primer/base step, ive been waffling on the finish coat, as opposed to just topcoating with something else, just looking for more info so I can be informed prior to starting.

 

[aminga]

Charlie's got the idea with that air/water blaster. Blasting isn't hard yourself and a decent pressure pot blaster is around $75 to $100 bucks. But it does require one big compressor to run one of those. The cheapest non free silica blast media out there is Black Beauty (coal slag) but it's coarse and doesn't flow well. You'll wind up using the biggest nozzle in the blaster to flow it (and even then it will stop up) and those nozzles require 20+ CFM at 90 PSI to keep up. It runs my 7.5HP compressor full time blasting black beauty. I killed a 1.5 Horse Craftsman compressor doing that It was going through head gaskets like a newby GN owner running 20 lbs of boost (was a free compressor)

And you have to be careful with sheet metal you will warp it. I think the water blaster would keep it cool enough it might prevent that.

I think all of those Rust preventors/stops lack UV inhibitors I'd top coat.

 

[charlief1]

charlief- with the rust bullet did you use both steps or one and not the other? Ive already purchased the primer/base step, ive been waffling on the finish coat, as opposed to just topcoating with something else, just looking for more info so I can be informed prior to starting.

Got everything from them and did it after blasting. I'm guessing it didn't adhere right and since it's so thick the outside dried out, shrank. and that was what caused the pealing. They haven't been around for to long and "estimate" the stuff will last 10 years before deteriorating. If POR is properly painted it will last as long as the paint.

Charlie's got the idea with that air/water blaster. Blasting isn't hard yourself and a decent pressure pot blaster is around $75 to $100 bucks. But it does require one big compressor to run one of those. The cheapest non free silica blast media out there is Black Beauty (coal slag) but it's coarse and doesn't flow well. You'll wind up using the biggest nozzle in the blaster to flow it (and even then it will stop up) and those nozzles require 20+ CFM at 90 PSI to keep up. It runs my 7.5HP compressor full time blasting black beauty. I killed a 1.5 Horse Craftsman compressor doing that It was going through head gaskets like a newby GN owner running 20 lbs of boost (was a free compressor)

And you have to be careful with sheet metal you will warp it. I think the water blaster would keep it cool enough it might prevent that.

I think all of those Rust preventors/stops lack UV inhibitors I'd top coat.

The nice thing about the sand/water blaster is you can rent a washer if you don't have one. It does take a lot of sand but if you do it right you should be able to reclaim some of it. No air compressor so you cut down on electricity and just pay for gas, water used, and the sand. A guy I know here found the company his brother in law works at will let me have as much sand as I want for free. They only use it once and then dispose of it so I can take a truck up as many times as I want for as much as I want.

 

[daturbosix]

i got a set of very nice GN seats for sale.

 

[aminga]

Got everything from them and did it after blasting. I'm guessing it didn't adhere right and since it's so thick the outside dried out, shrank. and that was what caused the pealing. They haven't been around for to long and "estimate" the stuff will last 10 years before deteriorating. If POR is properly painted it will last as long as the paint.



The nice thing about the sand/water blaster is you can rent a washer if you don't have one. It does take a lot of sand but if you do it right you should be able to reclaim some of it. No air compressor so you cut down on electricity and just pay for gas, water used, and the sand. A guy I know here found the company his brother in law works at will let me have as much sand as I want for free. They only use it once and then dispose of it so I can take a truck up as many times as I want for as much as I want.

Can you use other stuff in it besides sand. Inhaled Sillica is nasty business and I'm sure the water cuts down on it. I'd still wear a respirator. Plus sand is lousy as a cutting material.

I hear there's this stuff called scat blast :smile:

 

[noneed4nos]

Ok so basically no kit from summit because it does not work properly, am I correct? And what is the best way to go then? Basically get a high pressure sand blaster attachment? Has anyone just sent out their frame and body to a place to get it blasted and primed. I want the frame blasted and painted and the body blasted and primed. I just dont want any rust to deal with later down the road. I want a complete frame off but dont know what route to go... Blast or grind it down myself then coat it or get it blasted by someone? Any ideas/comments or suggestions let me know guys. I would really appreciate your knowlege. Thanks

 

[rmar]

Jim aka(Jims project) brought his frame to me Sun to redo.
It has been degreased. It will be sandblasted,chemical prep with Iron phosphate and then apply zinc rich primmer powdercoat and a med gloss black TGIC powder topcoat. ...........:biggrin:


I will try to post some pic's this week of the progress.



.

 

[noneed4nos]

Ok sound good post some pics. and anyone else who wants to post pics please do, anything will help as well as any info, suggestions or commments. Thanks guys:biggrin:

 

[rmar]

If I was going to do one with out powder. I would have it blasted. Well worth it. Prep, Epoxy prime liquid tinted black, and top coat with quick dry automotive black. Total about $300 max.

 

[noneed4nos]

Isnt powder coating a better way though (or at least better looking)? also is 300 max for me doing it myself or having someone do it? Thanks

 

[rmar]

Isnt powder coating a better way though (or at least better looking)? also is 300 max for me doing it myself or having someone do it? Thanks

$300 is what it would cost you (max) if you did it yourself.
Outsourse the blasting.
Prime and paint yourself or the frame......... :biggrin:

A good paint is slicker then powder.

I was just giving you some options.