Need help diagnosing my Trailer Queen.

[rob j]

Yep, I have a cherry 87 Trailer Queen that is 100% stock and original, down to the factory tires and with only 16k on the clock. I only drive the car to a couple of local car shows 7-8 times a year, and they are typically 3-5 miles away. So, needless to say, the car only get's a hundred or so miles a year put on it. It's been running a bit rough for several years now, so I figure it's time to get her sorted so she runs as good as she looks. She idles rough, seems to hesitate on initial acceleration, and while you are driving at any constant speed, she surges, as if it is misfiring. But, when you get into the throttle a moderate amount or more, she runs great, and surges with gobs of power.

This is what I have done so far. I have changed the original plugs to new stock AC R44TS plugs, and gaped to .035. Have changed plug wires. Stock AC Delco 8mm units. Have changed the coil pack, again stock AC Delco replacement unit. Replaced fuel filter, stock AC Delco unit. I did the plugs and wires first before changing the coil pack to see if it made a difference. Ironically, it seems that after I changed the coil pack, it seems to run even a tad bit worse. Strange.

What other things should I look at as the possible culprit? Was thinking the Ignition Module, Crank Sensor, but I hate to just keep on buying parts aimlessly without really knowing the true cause. Thanks. Rob.

 

[charlief1]

This may sound dumb but are you using some sort of fuel stabilizer in it? You might have some old/bad gas in it since you don't drive it that much.

 

[rob j]

This may sound dumb but are you using some sort of fuel stabilizer in it? You might have some old/bad gas in it since you don't drive it that much.

I have always used Sta-Bil in it, and I just put in a fresh tank of gas this past w/e.

 

[turbotroy]

Your replacement ignition parts, where are they from? I know you treasure your stock low mile gn, but a scanmaster is an easy add that can easily be removed for shows, and can let you know whats really going on. Another thought would be maf, or chip. If chip is oem, could give you issues also as gas quality is not what it was in '87, and have way too much timing. Hope this helps.

 

[Nick Micale]

Have you recently checked fuel pressure?

If the fuel pump is an original, 25 year old unit, I would doubt that it is delivering enough fuel?

My "garage queen" 1987 T-Type has only 9500 miles, and that fuel pump died years ago.

 

[fastblackracing]

Yep, I have a cherry 87 Trailer Queen that is 100% stock and original, down to the factory tires and with only 16k on the clock. I only drive the car to a couple of local car shows 7-8 times a year, and they are typically 3-5 miles away. So, needless to say, the car only get's a hundred or so miles a year put on it. It's been running a bit rough for several years now, so I figure it's time to get her sorted so she runs as good as she looks. She idles rough, seems to hesitate on initial acceleration, and while you are driving at any constant speed, she surges, as if it is misfiring. But, when you get into the throttle a moderate amount or more, she runs great, and surges with gobs of power.

This is what I have done so far. I have changed the original plugs to new stock AC R44TS plugs, and gaped to .035. Have changed plug wires. Stock AC Delco 8mm units. Have changed the coil pack, again stock AC Delco replacement unit. Replaced fuel filter, stock AC Delco unit. I did the plugs and wires first before changing the coil pack to see if it made a difference. Ironically, it seems that after I changed the coil pack, it seems to run even a tad bit worse. Strange.

What other things should I look at as the possible culprit? Was thinking the Ignition Module, Crank Sensor, but I hate to just keep on buying parts aimlessly without really knowing the true cause. Thanks. Rob.

Does it run rough every time its idling or does it come and go? Nice looking car by the way.

 

[Pronto]

Put a fuel gauge on the fitting on the fuel rail and tape it to the windshield. Drive around getting into light boost to make sure it raises one to one. Of course the stock boost gauge is useless so you will need a real boost gauge. Also check for vacuum leaks. Hoses could be cracked or split even with low miles.

 

[GN owner]

Not to get off the subject but the car is over 25 years old and you still have the original tires? I bought a brand new set of BF Goodrich tires back in 94 and it was a trailer queen also but after almost 15 years the rubber just deteriorated and one of the tires just blew up. The other tires were also showing signs of falling apart also. They were all replaced this year with Michelins. Just curious what brand of tires came on the stockers?

 

[jasjamz]

MAF sensor?

 

[turb]

Try this:
Start car
Disconnect Cam Sensor Plug
Drive car
Better??
Reconnect before starting car again.
No cost and very little time. Will tell you if Cam Sensor is causing trouble.

 

[turbotroy]

My 87 gn came with Goodyear eagle st's, which lasted exactly one week!

 

[DoubleD]

I was thinking maybe the MAF too.

 

[rob j]

Hi, thanks for the suggestions so far. I have not checked the fuel pressure yet, and probably need to do so. As far as I know, the chip is the OEM chip. The car has the original Eagle GT's from factory. Since this car has been kept in indoor climate controlled facilities all of it's life, the tires have held up remarkably well. Yes, car runs rough all the time on start up. It idles rough as well.

I think I may need to find a local GN expert to help properly diagnose the issue. Any suggestions for a reputable GN mechanic or service shop in South Florida? Specifically in the Miami area if possible. Thanks.

 

[deboeWE4]

I'm experiencing almost identical symptoms and it was suggested that it might be the ignition module. I haven't had a chance to check it on mine yet but u might be right thinking that's another possible culprit. I'm interested to hear what u come up with.

 

[trailinjake]

I'm thinking vacuum leak. Make a fitting from home depot plumbing parts and pressurize the "cold side" of the turbo. Quick, cheap and easy to do. You will actually hear the air leaking out.. If it holds the pressure (20-25 psi) then my second spot would be a cracked ignition module... beautiful car BTW

 

[standupjskiguy]

My GN has 12,800mi so I drive a little more than you. I had the stock ship in it and I really didn't like the way it drove while trying to drive it like a regular car.
My idle wasn't bad but while cruising at say 35 mph, it would have some hiccups. After my 1-2 shift, it would buck. It had some hesitation too.
The car was fine when I floored it.
I bought a Turbo Tweak chip for my stock setup and it's a whole different car now. I love driving it, it is smooth. I did exchange the chip for one with a little lower idle
which Eric was glad to do. Now I'm a happy camper.
I suggest your stock chip wasn't appropriate for reformulated fuel of today.
Even if the chip doesn't solve all your problems, it is needed for it to run well.

 

[trixdout]

My GN has 12,800mi so I drive a little more than you. I had the stock ship in it and I really didn't like the way it drove while trying to drive it like a regular car.
My idle wasn't bad but while cruising at say 35 mph, it would have some hiccups. After my 1-2 shift, it would buck. It had some hesitation too.
The car was fine when I floored it.
I bought a Turbo Tweak chip for my stock setup and it's a whole different car now. I love driving it, it is smooth. I did exchange the chip for one with a little lower idle
which Eric was glad to do. Now I'm a happy camper.
I suggest your stock chip wasn't appropriate for reformulated fuel of today.
Even if the chip doesn't solve all your problems, it is needed for it to run well.

YUP, get a tt chip. Perfect stock replacement and won't ruin the value of the car. If anything, it will increase the value because it'll run better than from the factory.

 

[rob j]

Thanks for the tip on the chip. I'll definitely look into that.

 

[rob j]

My GN has 12,800mi so I drive a little more than you. I had the stock ship in it and I really didn't like the way it drove while trying to drive it like a regular car.
My idle wasn't bad but while cruising at say 35 mph, it would have some hiccups. After my 1-2 shift, it would buck. It had some hesitation too.
The car was fine when I floored it.
I bought a Turbo Tweak chip for my stock setup and it's a whole different car now. I love driving it, it is smooth. I did exchange the chip for one with a little lower idle
which Eric was glad to do. Now I'm a happy camper.
I suggest your stock chip wasn't appropriate for reformulated fuel of today.
Even if the chip doesn't solve all your problems, it is needed for it to run well.

These symptoms sound exactly like the way my car is behaving.

 

[John Larkin]

That's the thing about older cars. Ozone and time get to them no matter what. Mine stays inside all the time and the bumper fillers finally gave up last year, so did the window sweeps. If you can rub your vacuum lines between your fingers and black comes off, they are rotten and need replaced. I bet you are in need of some spring cleaning under the hood. You can set your TPS and IAC without a scan tool. Might not be a bad idea to do this first. Here are some procedures if you have a volt meter: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/maintenance/maintpage.html