Need someone to weld my heads to the block

[Phoneguy]

These have always worked good for me.

D

Sorry, i couldn't resist!

Those look promising. Do they need copper spray or do they go on dry?

 

[rmar]

By the time I get a job you ought to be tired off that thing and I will take it off your hands.......:biggrin:

 

[Phoneguy]

By the time I get a job you ought to be tired off that thing and I will take it off your hands.......:biggrin:

Why wait to get a job...:biggrin:

Hows it going Ronnie?

Bryan

 

[johnplogii]

Heads are torqued to 85 lbs. ARP Bolts.
I was running ALKY and just at 15lbs of boost with no knock doing some tuning. The head gasket hasn't " Blown " to where I am losing compression. My cooling system is being pressurized and blowing coolant out of the overflow. I am going to re-torque and try some sealant tabs before I pull the heads.

Bryan

Good luck, I have never been able to get them to re-seal after lifting. Those seal tabs are for gaskets that seep coolant to the outside of the head & sometimes work for that, but will do nothing in your case. put new gaskets on it & pull some timing. If it was me I would use studs, not bolts. Re-torque the intake side after a few heat cycles & before any boost.

 

[Otto J]

HAve you ever verified the timing on your XFI?

 

[vacuum 6]

If it was me I would use studs, not bolts.

What's the difference?

 

[EVIL]

Re-torque the intake side after a few heat cycles & before any boost.

Can you please explain this like i'm 3 years old? Is it necessary on all newly built engines?

thank you.

 

[Slow91z]

What's the difference?

Studs have more clamping force.

 

[naste87t]

Check the block bore for signs of horizontal microscopic cracks, all six of them.

 

[Grumpy]

Can you please explain this like i'm 3 years old? Is it necessary on all newly built engines?

thank you.

some guys do some don't.. I never have.

 

[Steve]

I am a little late on this thread but I have run Cometics on a 130mph car without problems for about 4 years(I sold it after 2 years but it is still together and fine with the new owner). I installed them dry(Cometic recomended against using anything on the them) and the head and block surfaces were lapped to reach the RA that Cometic recommended. When my engine builder did the machine work and tried to reach the RA that Cometic recommended he could not find any surfacing machinery(in Tulsa or OKC, so fairly big area) that could reach that RA(he checked with other shops since his equipment was unable to get there) so he lapped the heads and block. The car ran 26psi of boost on 93 and alky and never had any issues other than the gaskets seeped some coolant early on but one of the tablets fixed that. One thing a little different on mine was that it had a stock untouched intake with no mods other than a power plate. I have never ran a ported intake because I just never felt it was worth the money but is it possible that a modified intake could change the flow characteristics and make one cylinder leaner than others? I would think that a Champion ported intake or a professionally done intake would be flow tested but some guy in his garage porting an intake so that it "looks" good may or may not have even distribution.

I think a meth spray plate like a NX Gemini Twin nitrous plate would be great. The Gemini Twin plate is like a plenum spacer with no central spray bars but injects the nitrous/fuel out of the perimeter of the plate right into the runners. It would certainly take some flowbench work to get it right but it would be nice.

 

[delcowizzid]

the pics a page back look like one side heads been running leaner than the other maybe the rails arnt keeping up

 

[Phoneguy]

HAve you ever verified the timing on your XFI?

No I haven't, funny Cotton asked me that too.

Bryan

 

[Phoneguy]

Good luck, I have never been able to get them to re-seal after lifting. Those seal tabs are for gaskets that seep coolant to the outside of the head & sometimes work for that, but will do nothing in your case. put new gaskets on it & pull some timing. If it was me I would use studs, not bolts. Re-torque the intake side after a few heat cycles & before any boost.

I have plenty of time I think you are right , just put new gaskets on and move forward. What kind of timing do you run? Pm me if you don't want to post your timing. I have AC, studs would be a major pain. Why re-torque just the intake side, makes no sense to me ? Not saying you are wrong, just trying to learn. Thanks for your response John.

Bryan

 

[DR BOOST]

HAve you ever verified the timing on your XFI?

this is one of the most important steps.

this is one of the most useless threads i have ever seen

 

[Grumpy]

this is one of the most useless threads i have ever seen

hey it's winter.

 

[SloGN]

Bryan,

There is a local car here in nc that has been having the same issues over the yrs and could never figure it out.

He has tried different types of gaskets and lastly the cometics and when it would make the noise was @ low 20's boost and the problem just got worse with longer running.

The noise i heard from underneath the car ( on alift) and car on the trans brake i witnessed the sound of the gasket clapping/flapping when under power/boost.

The problem turned out to be the heads have had about .080 materail removed the heads are moving/distorting with higher pressure in the chamber.

You may want to contact TOM @ champion and speak with him about the correct way to check the heads to see how much material may have been removed.

DO you have the CC of the chambers that could be a key on how much has been removed ?


HTH

Pat Broughton

 

[turbobob924]

subscribed

 

[TURBOWNER]

outcome?

So what ever happend after all of this? I'm switching to Alky and am having serious second thoughts!

 

[EVIL]

The moral here, is to build a 550+ HP at the wheels engine at 24+ lbs of boost with alky or race fuel, then tune it down to 450+ HP at the wheels at 17 lbs of boost on 93 octane. Just add fuel and drop the hammer.

stir occasionally.

d