new cage

TKGN1

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2002
Pics of new cage built by disco stu. Anyone needing cage work done, I highly recomend him. .083 wall chromoly tubing, hand built, tig welded.
 

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Glad you like it. I'm glad you let me do it. That car is the all around street strip package.
 
Rustoleum Hammertone Black. Brush on. The spray on did not look good at all in comparison.

I like using it. It's easy, almost no spraying inside the car (except primer for weld areas), durable and easy to touch up.
 
That's tucked in nicely. I like that paint too.
 
Thanks. I hate it when a cage is too visible when you can help it, and when it's all intrusive on interior space. It's like a pet peeve.
 
Hand built, he has a bender for the tubes and a lot of patience to get the bends correct! Hard to make a kit fit nicely in all cars the same, each car/cage usually has its own uniqueness.
 
I like the paint. I wonder if there is a lighter shade?

Nice job by Disco Stu. I agree, you shouldn't see the main hoop when looking at the car from the side.
 
Disco Stu,
My compliments on your work.

I am going to tackle this job myself this winter after i get the car all tuned up, but i have a couple of questions for you. I too want to put my bars behind the B pillar, and am just wondering how much frame there is to weld to in that area. Did you have to take out the body bushing? Did you weld to the top and bottom of the frame?

Thanks alot for you help.

Adrian Karolko
 
There is enough room in front of the body bushing. You can see a seam in the body, the bushing is an inch or so behind that I believe. If you put the bar where it is pretty much even with the edge of the B pillar you should be fine, and still barely be up against the rear seat.
 
Also, Bend your bar so that it sits on the inside edge of the frame otherwise you wont have enough room to weld between the bar and the frame. I cut a hole in the frame (same size as tubing) to drop the hoop through. 2 reasons: To be able to drop it down to weld (and paint) the tops of the rear bars. And so I would not have to fidgit with the irregular shape of the frame and having to shape the bottom of the main hoop to fit it. When the tubi is in the hole it is almost a gap free fit all the way around no matter the shape of the top of the frame. Make sense?

Hole placement has to be spot on of course.
 
I believe there's a restriction required by NHRA that states , the main hoop has to be within 6 inches of your head, ( helmet ) in race position, so I think we must be careful of being legal if we're racing at sanctioned races. Mind you, I've never had a tech measure mine. :rolleyes:

George
 
You are correct George, and you are also the person whom i think told e jsut to slide the seat all the way back in order to make it appear that the bar is within 6 inch of your head. :)
 
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