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NVU gauge cluster installation.

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First off, wiring diagram is somewhat confusing. Plug 1 is pictured as you are looking at the connector from the rear, as in the wire colors match the schematic. Left is left and right is right. Not so for plug 2 and 3. Those are pictured as you looking at the connector from the front. So if you look at the connector from the back, where the wires are coming out of the connector, the colors of the wires do not match up with the schematic. Let's say the top left on the schematic is a red wire, when looking at the back of the connector the top left is orange. Called NVU and was told to go with the colors.

Second, their schematic does not correspond with the c1 and c2 connectors for the digital dash. They use abc locations and the c1 connector is marked with numbers. Not a big deal but they completely missed the location of the pink/black wire. There were other descrepencies with the schematic but that was the one I can recall as I write the. I went to the Casper website and downloaded the instructions for their c1 dash mate connector. It had a table with connector and wire locations that was accurate.

Third, I would recommend not drilling the top 2 holes in the modified cluster bezel until it's installed back in the car. That thing is really flimsy after you trim it out for the new cluster. Being the perfectionist, I got everything as square possible, clamped and then drilled the holes on the bench. When putting it back in the car, the modified cluster bezel went back in to its original place with little to no room for adjusting its position. The holes I drilled on the bench were about 1/2 the width of the screw off. To compensate, I trimmed the new cluster but it can be avoided if you just drill those wholes when it's in the car.
I had to trim the left side of the cluster, as if looking at the gauges while seated in the car, to get it to sit level in the dash. Also had to trim the trim piece to get it to sit flush with the bezel. It's just a tad to big. Used a die grinder with sanding disc to do this. I hate sanding plexi-glass. Makes me feel like I've been at the beach all day

There are 2 gray wires for dash lights. C1 17 is dash feed and c2 g is dash dimmer. I spliced into the c1 wire and only have dash lights when the ignition is on. Not certain how to make this work. May have to go with their dimmer switch

Still a bit confused with the resistor. I was under the impression that the resistor was already installed with the pre-wired kits but I have a resistor that was included with the kit contents. That being said, first power up to the gauges showed 12 volts, second power up to the gauges and I get the start up sweep of the dial but guage shows 0 volts after that.

NVU said they will take tech questions on the weekends but it won't be immediate. Most likely an hour or two to return a phone call.

Well.... I hope this helps out. Any thoughts?
Jason
 
He didn't say where buick folks were putting the button, I guess just "most" of the folks who buy their gauges are only installing that button.

That being said, I am going to install the speedo button next to my dimmer switch

I bought this overlay to use with the alky control box. I plan to install the buttons I want to use in this location. Also I will be painting them black.
ImageUploadedByTurboBuick Mobile1390098658.111517.jpg
 
I bought this overlay to use with the alky control box. I plan to install the buttons I want to use in this location. Also I will be painting them black. View attachment 212319
That's nice - wonder if that panel maker would make some but with modifications and labels such as "Trip Reset" and "Boost Recall". Was that from Mark Hueffman(sp)?
 
That's nice - wonder if that panel maker would make some but with modifications and labels such as "Trip Reset" and "Boost Recall". Was that from Mark Hueffman(sp)?
Yes it is. I just got mine from him, wished I would have known about this sooner.
 
That's nice - wonder if that panel maker would make some but with modifications and labels such as "Trip Reset" and "Boost Recall". Was that from Mark Hueffman(sp)?

Yes it is from TR Customs. They can make it any way you want. I'm going to call him Monday and find out for sure. I will see about sending mine back to have the wording and holes added.
 
Yes it is from TR Customs. They can make it any way you want. I'm going to call him Monday and find out for sure. I will see about sending mine back to have the wording and holes added.
Post up what he says about that when you find out. Thanks
 
I can confirm that the backlighting is blue when wired to the white LED wire. I did not connect the amber wire

If you will? Please post up some pictures of your install. It seems as tho you are further along than most in this install.

TIA Bill
 
Post up what he says about that when you find out. Thanks

Will do. I was following the earlier thread on these and I remember him saying they could do whatever someone wanted.

FYI for anyone that may want to go this route it cost $20 plus shipping.
 
First off, wiring diagram is somewhat confusing. Plug 1 is pictured as you are looking at the connector from the rear, as in the wire colors match the schematic. Left is left and right is right. Not so for plug 2 and 3. Those are pictured as you looking at the connector from the front. So if you look at the connector from the back, where the wires are coming out of the connector, the colors of the wires do not match up with the schematic. Let's say the top left on the schematic is a red wire, when looking at the back of the connector the top left is orange. Called NVU and was told to go with the colors.
Jason
I have attached an Excel sheet. These blocks represent the NVU plugs while looking at the side where the wires come out.
If you look closely at the plugs, the wire locations are numbered showing wire numbers 1,3 and 12. This should give you proper orientation as I said "while looking at the plug where the wires come out"
 

Attachments

  • NVU plug orientation.jpg
    NVU plug orientation.jpg
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Is there something between my fingers and the gauge face?

Is anyone considering using the clear plastic overlay to go over the gauges? I am not loving. The idea of not having A clear cover. Maybe it would look ok in a race car but I was hoping more for the clean factoryish look.

Any thoughts?
 
I have attached an Excel sheet. These blocks represent the NVU plugs while looking at the side where the wires come out.
If you look closely at the plugs, the wire locations are numbered showing wire numbers 1,3 and 12. This should give you proper orientation as I said "while looking at the plug where the wires come out"
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing
 
If you will? Please post up some pictures of your install. It seems as tho you are further along than most in this install.

TIA Bill
Will do... Hope to have them up mid afternoon. Going to add some arrows to point out where I had to trim the cluster
 
With the help of http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/images/wiring_images/ecm_turbo.jpg, I found the wire to splice the VSS signal from the 2 pulse speed signal generator. A10 is location from the diagram. Evidently, these Buicks have a speed sensor buffer somewhere in the car that will not work if you attach the speed signal to the VSS at C2 K location on a digital dash car. You have to splice that signal at the ECM.

A 10 is located on the smaller of the 2 connectors at the ECM and the wire color is brown. Confirmed the signal to the ECM and the new speedometer with the help of a scan master and the car on jack stands.

I was completely confused with the whole resistor thing. So here's where I installed the resistor to get the alternator to charge. I have a digital dash car, my alternator indicator wire location is C1 2 and the wire color is brown. I spliced the resistor here and to C2 P, which is a 12V switched power source that is pink/black in color
 
Is anyone considering using the clear plastic overlay to go over the gauges? I am not loving. The idea of not having A clear cover. Maybe it would look ok in a race car but I was hoping more for the clean factoryish look.

Any thoughts?

I have been considering trying to figure out something as well for a lens over the gauges. I would agree with you totally on the clear lens idea. When the project was in development, I was under the impression that it was going to have one which is why I was very interested in it. I too would like the factory look of having it there.
 
I have been considering trying to figure out something as well for a lens over the gauges. I would agree with you totally on the clear lens idea. When the project was in development, I was under the impression that it was going to have one which is why I was very interested in it. I too would like the factory look of having it there.
It seems like NVU could make a solid piece if they just didn't cut the middle out of the trim mask. I'll ask when I call them tomorrow since they forgot the trim mask in my set anyway.
 
It seems like NVU could make a solid piece if they just didn't cut the middle out of the trim mask. I'll ask when I call them tomorrow since they forgot the trim mask in my set anyway.

Actually I called them. They said they could do as you suggest. $120 Bucks.
 
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